20V CQ Tidy Up

[Error404]

I thought I would document the engine build-up.
I started the engine project by stripping it down

First up - off with his head!
I'll put this to one side and wrap it in cling film and a bin liner until I put the engine back together again.



Bores look OK, no nasties inside as you would expect for a relatively low mileage engine


Quick inspection of the bores. With a finger nail and I can feel a ridge at the top of the bore indicating some wear - not that it matters as I am over boring with new pistons. FWIW 3B blocks seem to wear less for some reason - better quality alloy in the block?




Pull out the dipstick. I'll need an ABY one to clear the inlet manifold




Take out the one-way valve that stops the oil draining back out of the head. I'll get it sonically cleaned




Remove the Darlek's head - its an interferance fit into the block. Just prise it off. I will fit a new one as its looking a bit worse for wear after its adventure.






Turn the block over on the stand and off with the sump, oil pick-up and windage tray:



Strip down and clean the oil pump: no signs of wear, need to check clearances but there is no factory spec - Audi the w**kers want you to just buy a new one
anyone got any ideas?




Internal parts cleaned and bagged up



The housing will be vapour blasted to bring it back to looking new




Good time to check the crank end float: 0.13mm - well within "new" spec






Remove the pistons and rods. Little tip ,use some fuel hose over the rod bolts to protect the crank journals and give you something nice & soft to tap to drive the piston over the wear ridge in the bores





Journals look perfect. I will measure them once everything is cleaned.




Crank rear seal housing removed and cleaned - again it will be vapour blasted and a new seal fitted




Quick inspection of the rod bearings - this is the worst one, some debris has scored the softer lower shell. Upper sputter shell is perfect.




Off with the main caps. The mains all look great, with some very minor signs of wear:
I will keep all the rod and main shells so I can use them to protect the crank journals as I detail it.








Now to remove the oil squirters. These will be sonically cleaned



That's it for now. The block is stripped bare.
Next week, cleaning, block detailing and some pics that we all love - shiny new parts

[Fat Audi 80]

Looking good Alex, can't wait to see more... Good luck.

[andy10v]

Nice update Alex

Really starting to come together.

[irishs2]

Oh yes ... I was looking forward to this

[Greg_S]

Anymore info on the rear brake upgrade?

[4WheelDrifter]

Nice one, Alex.
I have a Dalek's head installation tool if you ever need one. I fitted the Dalek's head with the smaller outlet, so I could tie it in with my new breather system.


You're not planning on reusing an oil pump are you?
I think I used the 10V manual as a rough guide to checking the oil pump.

I also had access to a new pump and one that had done 1k miles, so I used those as references.
The wear marks on the drive dogs on the 1k mile pump was particularly interesting.

It was just a case of measuring how tight the gears were to the back plate, and how tight the gears meshed together. There's not really much else to the pump.

[Error404]

Greg I'll be using 310 x 22mm rear rotors and calipers from a Phaeton 4motion. They have an side pull handbrake lever. Just need to make up some mounting brackets for them. I'll post some pics up of them soon

Cheers Stu, I knew you'd approve
I planned to measure the axial clearance of the gears to the pump & back plate and also the lash between the teeth, but wasn't sure of the specs. I do have an old haynes manual somewhere I wonder if I can find some specs in there. I have to say though it seems fine and I am sure that the German made pump du jour is better than the modern Korean crap full of grit

RE: the Darlek tool, I may drop you a line about that in a few months time

[4WheelDrifter]

I am pretty sure I checked and measured about 4 different pumps, and they were all pretty much the same, apart from the one that had ingested some metal and scored the back plate.

I don't think you have to worry about a old pump suddenly failing, unless you plan on revving it to 8k+ rpm.
I think it would just slowly struggle to maintain oil pressure, and swapping it for a younger pump is hardly a mega-job. I have a good condition 120k miler as a back-up.
I never had any trouble with the original pump at ~180k, and there are plenty of unopened I5s out there with higher mileage, so why not let it continue.
Yes. It is certainly going to be better than one of those new grit filled Korean pumps.

I will be interested to see how your pump measures up. I had the luxury of being able to plunder unwanted 7As for spare pumps.

[Error404]

Haha, I have another 7A one here for you if you want it

[Error404]

I had a look in the old Haynes manual I had rotting away in the garage and there are no specs for the 5 cylinder egnine, but for the 4 pots it quotes 0.20mm lash in the gears and 0.15mm end float. So I got the feeler gauges and the micrometers out. 0.16mm for the outer gear to the casing. 0.18mm lash in the teeth and 0.13mm of end float. So that seems about right to me. Another job ticked off



some pics of the rear brakes for Greg

[newsh]

Is this plug and play? I need these on the coupe

[Error404]

Defo needs custom brackets making up as the bolt spacing is loads wider on the Phaeton carriers, but I will draw those up some time soon to suit these 310mm discs so will be easy to make a few sets
Otherwise i think it will be plug & play

[newsh]

That would be awesome

[marathontom]

I've just bought a few so I'll do some before and after, to see the difference. I am really quite happy with the RS2 dial illumination as it is, so I'll see if these are any better - if not no harm done

Do you have a link to the LED's you brought?

Cheers mate

[Pat D]

Is this plug and play? I need these on the coupe

+1

Would these fit under 17 inch rims Alex?