RS2 America

[Ruffiano]

Feels like christmas anytime we get an update! Keep at it!

[andy10v]

Looks great as always.

Quite an interesting shape when you see the tank off the car!

[irishs2]

Very Nice, it came up well. They all go at the filter area, "lifetime" filter and location ensures that it rusts.

What's the condition of the threads that hold the tank straps in place? They were gone on my tank.
(page 5 on my project)

[saltinot]

Feels like christmas anytime we get an update! Keep at it!

Cheers Dave. I'll try to increase the frequency. I know I have been quiet lately. I am hoping to start moving along more. I've got the entire rear suspension of my S4 apart at the moment. Replacing all the bushing, links, arms, etc. Gonna send my Bilsteins off for a rebuild while I'm at it. Replaced the left side diff seal yesterday and drained and refilled the diff fluid. Once the S4 is done I will move the RS2 to the lift and get cracking.

Looks great as always.

Quite an interesting shape when you see the tank off the car!

I thought the same. Three words......Computer Aided Design. What happened to the tank that looked like a suitcase with two straps holding it in?

[saltinot]

Very Nice, it came up well. They all go at the filter area, "lifetime" filter and location ensures that it rusts.

What's the condition of the threads that hold the tank straps in place? They were gone on my tank.
(page 5 on my project)

Ah, the lifetime filter. The heat from the cut-off wheel softened the plastic and I was able to pull the bolt with the nut attached out of the side. A larger washer will make it all better.

There was only one that broke off. I am hoping that the tank isn't thermoset plastic so I can cut one off the spare tank and melt it on to this one. Maybe some plastic glue if I can't remelt the plastic.

[Arnout]

I've been a 'sleeping' member of this forum for years, however stumbled on some much needed information to get the aircon system of my 1994 RS2 back in shape. I still owe you guys an introduction of my '94 black RS2 that's in my hands for 5 years now.

Anyway, I started reading your thread the other night and simply couldn't stop. What a great job you are doing with this car! It's really too bad that you cannot import RS2's in the US and get them on the road. Is there any reason why? However, if that would be possible, this amazing project might not have started maybe?

I recently did an overhaul of the front bodywork of my car (it has seen some damage during the 5 previous owners it became apparent while doing this) and I wondered why the black pieces were mounted on the inside of the headlamps. As mine had only one left at the air intake side, I assumed it had something to do with that, but you learned me again something new about the RS2. Thanks for that! (Now I need to get another one from Audi Tradition ).

If there's anything I can help you with from across the pond (I'm visiting the US at least once a year for work) I'm happy to help.

Arnout

[c4S6]

Tom,

If you have a chance, can you take some pictures of this area (trimwork) around the rear 3/4 glass and doors. How hard was this trim to remove, and what clips/parts are needed to secure it?



Most of the glass for these cars including the rear 3/4 glass is NLA.

[saltinot]

C4 and B4 trim is held on with pop rivets. The glass on the avant is urethaned to the body. The saloon/sedan/limo quarter glass uses a rubber seal without glue. There is a rubber seal that fits around the sedan quarter glass which has clips. These clips slide into the surrounding trim. The glass is hinged at this point on the trim. It's difficult to explain, but not that difficult to do.

[rxl]

stupid question... when is it drivable?

[HPmuirt]

stupid question... when is it drivable?

I used to ask that question regularly when I was travelling to the "good ole US of A" but all Tom was doing was teasing us by polishing bits of his engine in a blast cabinet!

I waited over 20 pages and nothing, nowt, bupkiss, zip, zilch, zero, nada, so I left the forum! Now I have sold my company and no longer travelling to said "land of the free" (stands and holds his hand to his chest just in case there is a Septic in the room), the lazy sod stops polishing bits and goes and throws the engine in within 6 pages

Now, where is that other Tom, coz if I ain't visiting your beautiful model, I sure as hell want to visit his.....

Tears for fears

Si

P.S. Tom, you are a Leg end sir

[saltinot]

Cheers Si. I never realized that you were "close". If there is ever a next time you need to give me a shout and come pay me a visit.

So I've been collecting parts for to rebuild the driveshaft and the day has finally come to "go to town" on this thing. My original plan was to replace the center bearing, end joints, and the U-joint, but after checking I decided to leave the U-joint alone until it started giving problems. It also looked like a real pain since it was not held in with circlips. Instead it is held in place by the outer edges of the yolk being mashed (< this is a technical term here in the South) down onto the end caps.

The patient.......End joints removed earlier and disassembled them. This is when I discovered that they were worn and needed to be replaced.



The parts I will be using. End joints, boots, and center bearing.



The joints are standard Porsche items and per the box are used on Fords also. Part number 923 332 032 00.



No part number on the boots, but they can be found in race shops that sell Hewland gearboxes here in the US. I think I remember Tweeks peddling them too for folks in the the UK. They are available from some Audi shops here, but for double what I paid for them which was 32USD.

The center bearing I sourced ended up not being a good match so the search continues for a more similar item.

The center support bearing looking a little tired.



The old boots. OK condition, but not up to par for the RS2 A.



A good picture of the "mashed" in U-joint end caps. The bolt that holds the two driveshaft halves together can be see here also tucked inside the yolk.



To remove the center support bearing you must first separate the two halves of the driveshaft. To do this remove the bolt (17mm) just like seen here. You actually just want to loosen it about half way at first because you need it to pry on. I applied some heat to the outside of the yolk using MAPP gas. Then I used a large prybar and a small mini-sledge hammer to get things moving. It took a lot more effort than I expected, but it eventually started moving. Once it would move a little I would loosen the bolt a little more to give me some more space. Hard to describe, but you'll see when you attempt it.



You end up with this. I gave the center bearing a good tug and it came apart leaving the bearing on the shaft along with a bunch of the rubber. Past the point of no return.



In my efforts to use a small two jaw gear puller to remove the bearing from the shaft I found that the rubber is actually bonded to a ring which is in turn pressed onto the actual bearing. In this picture you can see the bearing outer in the background also. With the rubber completely off the bearing I was able to get out the heavy artillery.......



.......the 3 jaw gear puller.



On to the end joints. Old boots removed.



New boot installed. I still need to grab some clamps to finish these, but will do that later.



Joint on along with the circlip.





I'll close these up later with some grease before it goes on the RS2.

More on this later once I get the center bearing sorted. I'll put it all back together then and hang it on the car.

[irishs2]

Nice, it seems I may have incorrectly thought that the prop-shaft was balanced as one piece, but each end is in fact balanced separately?
Can you confirm one way or the other?

[JariP]

For a center bearing, have look at e21 BMW 315 part. Febi 05196 for example. Febi bearing carrier is ok to use, but you really want to upgrade the ball bearing itself. The Febi bearing won't last long.

[Error404]

A few years back, GT500 (Rob) was able to source the correct bearing from the OEM, maybe he can help?

[90quattrocoupe]

Power Train industries.

https://www.powertrainindustries.com...uu2v3c9tgp27c5

Greg W.