From this thread - http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46849
Originally posted by RWD19T
^^^^ yep ****** orange 10w40 mineral oil.
Run engine upto to temperature. Whilst oil is hot drop the oil, change oil flter for new one.
Then refil with 10w40 mineral again (fresh filter drive upto 2/3rd's of redline staying of WOT but making wastegate spring boost pressure to put some pressure behind the rings. Stay in the lower gears and drive country lane type driving for 50-100miles. Somewhere around the 60-80mile mark you'll feel less engine breaking and it revving up more freely.
That's when your rings are broken in. Dump the mineral oil change the filter for a fresh one and use 10w40 semi. Drive the car as normal for another 250-400miles staying of WOT.
Dump the oil go to fully synthetic of your choice with fresh filter (I use 5w40 from Audi for a roadgoing car that doesn't see oil temps above 100celsius repeatedly). Go and cane the nuts of your car assuming that the map is good for it or go and get it mapped.
Run engine upto to temperature. Whilst oil is hot drop the oil, change oil flter for new one.
Then refil with 10w40 mineral again (fresh filter drive upto 2/3rd's of redline staying of WOT but making wastegate spring boost pressure to put some pressure behind the rings. Stay in the lower gears and drive country lane type driving for 50-100miles. Somewhere around the 60-80mile mark you'll feel less engine breaking and it revving up more freely.
That's when your rings are broken in. Dump the mineral oil change the filter for a fresh one and use 10w40 semi. Drive the car as normal for another 250-400miles staying of WOT.
Dump the oil go to fully synthetic of your choice with fresh filter (I use 5w40 from Audi for a roadgoing car that doesn't see oil temps above 100celsius repeatedly). Go and cane the nuts of your car assuming that the map is good for it or go and get it mapped.
Originally posted by RWD19T
I didn't say drive it as a sissy I said stay of WOT and of the redline on mineral oil. Infact I quote myself "staying of WOT but making wastegate spring boost pressure to put some pressure behind the rings" i.e. Drive the car hard but of WOT. Reason being at WOT the ECU dumps fuel in rather than using the MAF/lambda, which when the rings are bedding in is no good as the fuel acts as an abrassive making them brittle giving them a shorter lifespan when running in on mineral oil.
Likewise the mineral oil is no good when revving to redline for 2 reasons. 1 - protecting your bearings (especially the harder sputters) and 2 - for your turbo as it can't deal with the temperatures. Hence you don't go to redline until you are on semi synthetic.
If your car is mapped and you aren't changing anything on the head/turbo front then yes skip the bit about staying of WOT once you are on semi.
I've pulled engines apart that haven't used mineral oil on run in and they have lovelly glazed bores.
I've pulled engines apart that haven't been run in under pressure and they have glazed bores.
I've pulled apart engines that have been revved to redline on mineral oil and they have hotspots on the bearings.
I've pulled apart engines that have been driven hard on WOT on run in without a proper remap for changes and seen the top of the bores burned dry from running lean and I have seen piston rings that chipped from running rich.
An engine is a pretty indestructible item providing all the journals, pistons and bores are round, the quality of components are good, all the clearances are correct etc... it tends to be the map that kills them through incorrect fuelling and ignition timing. So unless someone is keeping an identical setup to previous then I would stay of WOT until remap.
But hey what would I know
Likewise the mineral oil is no good when revving to redline for 2 reasons. 1 - protecting your bearings (especially the harder sputters) and 2 - for your turbo as it can't deal with the temperatures. Hence you don't go to redline until you are on semi synthetic.
If your car is mapped and you aren't changing anything on the head/turbo front then yes skip the bit about staying of WOT once you are on semi.
I've pulled engines apart that haven't used mineral oil on run in and they have lovelly glazed bores.
I've pulled engines apart that haven't been run in under pressure and they have glazed bores.
I've pulled apart engines that have been revved to redline on mineral oil and they have hotspots on the bearings.
I've pulled apart engines that have been driven hard on WOT on run in without a proper remap for changes and seen the top of the bores burned dry from running lean and I have seen piston rings that chipped from running rich.
An engine is a pretty indestructible item providing all the journals, pistons and bores are round, the quality of components are good, all the clearances are correct etc... it tends to be the map that kills them through incorrect fuelling and ignition timing. So unless someone is keeping an identical setup to previous then I would stay of WOT until remap.
But hey what would I know
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