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Project: RS2 ABY

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  • From this thread - http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46849

    Originally posted by RWD19T
    ^^^^ yep ****** orange 10w40 mineral oil.

    Run engine upto to temperature. Whilst oil is hot drop the oil, change oil flter for new one.
    Then refil with 10w40 mineral again (fresh filter drive upto 2/3rd's of redline staying of WOT but making wastegate spring boost pressure to put some pressure behind the rings. Stay in the lower gears and drive country lane type driving for 50-100miles. Somewhere around the 60-80mile mark you'll feel less engine breaking and it revving up more freely.

    That's when your rings are broken in. Dump the mineral oil change the filter for a fresh one and use 10w40 semi. Drive the car as normal for another 250-400miles staying of WOT.

    Dump the oil go to fully synthetic of your choice with fresh filter (I use 5w40 from Audi for a roadgoing car that doesn't see oil temps above 100celsius repeatedly). Go and cane the nuts of your car assuming that the map is good for it or go and get it mapped.
    Originally posted by RWD19T
    I didn't say drive it as a sissy I said stay of WOT and of the redline on mineral oil. Infact I quote myself "staying of WOT but making wastegate spring boost pressure to put some pressure behind the rings" i.e. Drive the car hard but of WOT. Reason being at WOT the ECU dumps fuel in rather than using the MAF/lambda, which when the rings are bedding in is no good as the fuel acts as an abrassive making them brittle giving them a shorter lifespan when running in on mineral oil.

    Likewise the mineral oil is no good when revving to redline for 2 reasons. 1 - protecting your bearings (especially the harder sputters) and 2 - for your turbo as it can't deal with the temperatures. Hence you don't go to redline until you are on semi synthetic.

    If your car is mapped and you aren't changing anything on the head/turbo front then yes skip the bit about staying of WOT once you are on semi.

    I've pulled engines apart that haven't used mineral oil on run in and they have lovelly glazed bores.
    I've pulled engines apart that haven't been run in under pressure and they have glazed bores.
    I've pulled apart engines that have been revved to redline on mineral oil and they have hotspots on the bearings.
    I've pulled apart engines that have been driven hard on WOT on run in without a proper remap for changes and seen the top of the bores burned dry from running lean and I have seen piston rings that chipped from running rich.

    An engine is a pretty indestructible item providing all the journals, pistons and bores are round, the quality of components are good, all the clearances are correct etc... it tends to be the map that kills them through incorrect fuelling and ignition timing. So unless someone is keeping an identical setup to previous then I would stay of WOT until remap.

    But hey what would I know
    S2Forum.com Administrator

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    • Couple of quick shots I took the other day while picking the scoob up:





      Not alot of clearance on the turbo!
      Haynes Manual:As described in Chapter 7...

      Translation:That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scarey photos of the inside of a gearbox.

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      • Btw one thing...
        About ECU dumping fuel when WOT. If you have a correct map for your injectors, that will never happen.
        Fuelling is purely MAF based, does not matter if you are 50% throttle or 100% throttle.

        It will always put in the correct amount of fuel for the air.

        Of course if your car is not calibrated at all for the injectors, this is very sound advice. I.e. if you are relying purely on lambda feedback for fuelling because your injectors are over or underscaled... going WOT or beyond medium load is a very bad idea.
        I would not drive like that at all.
        http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

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        • Coming along nicely Mr. Sonic
          Cheers'en, AndyC
          1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss

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          • Indeed! I want to see some pics of the exhaust system as well... what you up to tonight Karak?

            Shame i wont have that snub-mount of yours to add to it yet Rusty.
            S2Forum.com Administrator

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            • Really nice build. Just had a quick scroll through. Nice attention to detail

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              • Exhaust is all fabricated and in, as is the catch-tank system and the cold-side.

                The MAF needed to be bought forward about 20mm to fit with the new turbo, and as you can see in Karak's picture above, the airbox is pretty damn tight!

                They wagner x-member is also being cut and re-welded, as it doesn't quite fit with the new engine mounts. I'm also concerned that, with the front of the engine being raised, it won't fit under the (already cut) bonnet again!!! I'll end up with a Subaru style scoop if it needs anymore room!

                Anyway, all going well it will start on it's run-in process today, and attend an MOT this afternoon... which i understand it will pass with flying colours despite having no cat :mischeif:
                S2Forum.com Administrator

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                • Looking forward to blowing it u... errr mapping it
                  http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

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                  • Originally posted by prj View Post
                    Looking forward to blowing it u... errr mapping it


                    I'm looking forward to have you blow it... errr... i mean map it
                    S2Forum.com Administrator

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                    • I've got some bonnet spacer blocks you can run if you get stuck with clearance
                      Cheers'en, AndyC
                      1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss

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                      • Originally posted by Rusty View Post
                        I've got some bonnet spacer blocks you can run if you get stuck with clearance
                        I use an extra 6mm spacer on the IM and it still clears. Be sure to see if you will need a phenolic space from 034 as the im tends to heat up quite fast from the head

                        sent using Android

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                        • Is it an option to drop the front of the engine by lifting the gearbox mounts up?
                          Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon

                          Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
                          Sold ABY-stock

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                          • Originally posted by andy10v View Post
                            Is it an option to drop the front of the engine by lifting the gearbox mounts up?
                            Yes that will work
                            Chef

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                            • Originally posted by terrybullwon View Post
                              Yes that will work
                              no it don't ask me how I know

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                              • use washers to space the engine mounts down where they bolt to the chassis
                                Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                                Indigo ABY coupé
                                Imola B6 S4 Avant

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