Project: RS2 ABY

[prj]

It won't, but I see no point in this.
This engine is designed to run at 90C.

I don't see how having it open sooner or later has any serious effect on temperatures.
Rather more cooling needs to be installed.

If oil temp is hitting 150 then it either means it's knocking like crazy, but I know it's not - and it would have spun a bearing by now regardless if that was the case. Or it just means the cooling is inadequate.

Might be a good idea to make sure there is good airflow over the oil cooler, because when you are pushing so much power out of a small engine, it's going to get very hot all the time.

The core problem should be that the water temperature is going up. Probably the aux rad has been removed? Having the oil temp 30 deg over the water temp is perfectly normal.

[Rusty]

Andy, have you checked the torque on your ARP head studs since it was built?

[Sonic]

No, what should they be at? 140 iirc?

[stocious]

Would not installing a cooler stat be counted productive on the thermal efficiency side of things?
ME,VE,TE. And is heat energy no? Sorry for hijack

[driftin jo]

No, what should they be at? 140 iirc?

80 ft lb or 108 Nm

[Rusty]

No, what should they be at? 140 iirc?

IIRC 65ftlbs when using molyslip lube.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30166&highlight=arp

[A80Avant]

The whole purpose of keeping the engine cool at cost of a bit of economy is something I have gone for. Besides remember the 220 or 315hp engine was meant to have the engine running at 90C. We are upping the power by 100%. A bit of safety is something I don't mind. Gives more space. Afterall the engine wont run rich since mapped for those temperatures.

[Sonic]

Just a thought but could this increase in coolant and subsequently oil temps be a result of the coolant now also being passed through the TiAL wastegate.. i mean with high ambient temps and thrashing it all day, that's really got to heat it up some, no?

[prj]

The thermostat is not going to affect it on hard thrashing anyway.
I don't know why people assume it will.

Yes, the initial warmup phase will take a bit longer, since it's open at a lower temperature, but regardless - at around 90C the standard thermostat is wide open.

If the temps keep going up that means the cooling of the system is insufficient. Opening it at 70C or 80C just means that it will take a tiny bit longer, but if you were hitting 120C before, you're going to hit it again.

It's elementary physics...

[Error404]

I would say so yes, I think really you need a more efficient / larger core rad and oil cooler mate. Do you have an RS2 water pump? Maybe that would also help in combination.

[Sonic]

The oil cooler is pretty beefy already, it's some Setrab thing that Will installed, not stock.

The rad is a behr replacement from standard, but ac is removed so airflow is massively increased... not sure how much i could change that given the reverse inlet setup.

I've absolutely thrashed the car previously on the roads and track and it's not been a problem, so i'm not getting worked up over it, just trying to understand possible causes.

[prj]

In that case check the torque on the head bolts and make sure that the head is still in place.

[Jamo]

IIRC your oilcooler isn't that beefy in modding terms, it's way better than stock but it's a 13 row from memory. Likely you need a bigger one with bigger lines

[driftin jo]

I think the problem is the coolant temp, as said before the oil is always going to be ~ 30 deg hotter than the coolant when pushing it and as his coolant was 120 deg I would say address that problem first then see what the oil temps are.

[Error404]

120 is pretty bloody hot!! You are asking a lot of the stock rad IMHO, with the water cooled waste-gate as well as running a lot of boost on track in 30deg ambient!