Project: RS2 ABY

[Jamo]

It's a coupe 3" over the back axle isn't easy plus it's only the end section of the exhaust where the gases have cooled enough for it not to be a big issue.

[Thuppu]

Sure, I know. Just saying what I would use. Can be that 2.75" to 3" has no effect at all, but you never know.

[Sonic]

You need a bigger turbo.

The engine and setup would take it no problem... just need bigger injectors and a remap

[Error404]

Has anyone done the math on flow-rates with dual 1.0mm jets?

If you know the pressure and pulse width it should be fairly easy to work out

[Sonic]

If i understand correctly from the info and graph on http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-0...-valve-system/ then at 2bar (30psi) it would be operating at 130psi, which for 1.0mm is 450cc/min.. so 2 jets = 900cc/min, meaning a 5lt tank would last you just over 5:30 at WOT on the autobahn

[A80Avant]

Yes buy imagine how far you will have travelled in that time!

[europeanme]

WMI - dual 1.0mm jets is very good.
Aquamist has a failsafe, which can be either wired into the ECU to do map switching or it can just turn off your N75.

it might have a fail safe but if you run out of meth mixture what will the engine run on now the missing fuel isn't there??....won't it run ultra lean? or will you need to run 2 maps so you can switch back to a all petrol map as opposed to a meth/petrol map

[europeanme]

If i understand correctly from the info and graph on http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-0...-valve-system/ then at 2bar (30psi) it would be operating at 130psi, which for 1.0mm is 450cc/min.. so 2 jets = 900cc/min, meaning a 5lt tank would last you just over 5:30 at WOT on the autobahn

erl in the states (aquamist's dealer) sell bigger tanks if you want to get Ross to fetch one!

[prj]

it might have a fail safe but if you run out of meth mixture what will the engine run on now the missing fuel isn't there??....won't it run ultra lean? or will you need to run 2 maps so you can switch back to a all petrol map as opposed to a meth/petrol map

Well, that's exactly what the failsafe sorts out.

WMI does not inject constantly, only under load. If you wire the failsafe into your N75, you will never get any significant load, thus no lean running.

If you wire it into the ECU you can have a WMI map and a non-WMI map, again no lean running if there is no meth flow.

If you had a kit without a failsafe and aggressively mapped for it, then that's where you would have a problem as you could melt your engine.

[Sonic]

What about worse-case scenario running WOT with meth, which then runs out?

I assume it would start knocking, would the ECU then be able to respond quick enough to stop that from causing damage at high rpm and load?

[prj]

What about worse-case scenario running WOT with meth, which then runs out?

I assume it would start knocking, would the ECU then be able to respond quick enough to stop that from causing damage at high rpm and load?

Once again. That is why you have the failsafe. The failsafe continuously monitors flow.
There is also a level sensor.

If either of those do not show a plausible value, then the ECU will switch maps before thee WMI-less mixture even hits the cylinders. Or it will cut N75 if you wire it that way.

That's the exact reason I advocate the use of a WMI system with failsafe.

[Sonic]

Sounds good to me

[Ross]

Andy should be in the states before me, his turn to bring back a case full of aftermarket parts!

I am tentatively intrigued with the concept of a WMI map, can you utilise the low washer fluid sensor to switch it and prevent it running out, also leaving enough fluid in to get to the end of the journey? That could be OEM+ compatiable - have it run it past Fatty the oracle of OEM+

[prj]

That's how Aquamist HFS-3 works from the factory. Two points - upper one for additional level sensor. If it's triggered it stops working. Lower one for the meth pickup.

[Sonic]

I changed the plugs to the NGK BKR7EIX 2667 before the weekend whilst prepping the car for a weekend in Wales.

The car instantly starts and idles better, it used to be very temperamental before it had warmed up, and i've tested it to within an inch of its life at speed during the weekend.

The plugs were gaped to 0.6mm as standard which i kept and have had no problems at any point with them.

The Wales weekend was epic, i was with a group of friends in an R35 GTR, 997 GT3RS, 996 Turbo S, C63 AMG, 2x e39 M5 and a Megane RS.



I also managed to get the S2 stuck reversing into a drainage ditch, lots of tyre spinning later and i couldn't budge it, so of course the other chaps jumped out, took some photos laughing at me, and then tried to push her out. Unfortunately the entire left-side was unloaded with no traction so she wasn't moving. I had just resigned myself to the fact i was going to have to have her pulled out, likely causing some damage to the driveshafts or exhaust, and then i remembered the diff button. Needless to say 5 seconds later she was out



3 of the cars from the weekend didn't make the trip, with 2 being sent back home on flat-beds. One of the chaps drove through the night to arrive back in Wales just in time with his M5

Needless to say the raw pace and speed of the pack took its toll on the cars...

After the weekend the list of things to do now stands at:

1) The rear-left caliper locks on if you use the handbrake (already knew about this). The thing is if i end up needing a new rear caliper then i'll be tempted to do something like a 996 upgrade at the rear to sort out the brake bias with the front RS6's being ultra strong.

2) I think the front calipers need a refurb as i was getting lots of juddering under breaking and the FR was clearly quite a bit hotter than the FL so i assume there's a sticky piston somewhere and possibly some glazing on the disc.

3) The gearbox wont let me engage 2nd when rapidly slowing down e.g heavy braking into hairpin in 4th, dropping down to 2nd to power through the corner, and i cannot push to gearstick into 2nd. It simply wont engage, even after i've slowed right down. If i launch it off the line it will slot straight into 2nd at high RPM though and pull like a train into 3rd. Very strange, but i think this would be the synchromesh in the gearbox. Bit annoying as i had it rebuilt with a new synchromesh a few years back. Will need to get this looked at but has anybody had something similar?

4) The bloody low-washer fluid light stays on the dash after i took the pump out to fix it. The rear one has stopped working completely but this will be removed along with the rear wiper during the bodywork.

5) I'm going to remove the RS2 airbox and replace with a cone-filter onto the MAF. This will remove any inlet restriction which must exist with the amount of air the car wants to use.

6) I have some 7A cams to fit at a later date and will also be looking into the aquamist kit for WMI but the bodywork comes first.

7) Bodywork and paint - the car has numerous bubbles and rust marks now that NEED sorting so the car is all booked in to have this sorted and resprayed. I'm also going to get some wider arches to sort the issues with the wider tyres.