3b s2 coupe resurrection

[andy10v]

Sounds like some new software is in order.

I thought normal 280bhp chipset was 21psi/1.5 bar tapering to 14psi/0.9 bar?

Sounds like it will be good, punchy but still nice to drive about in.

Why not just drive to Automark with stock injectors, and n75 unplugged if you want to be extra safe, just swap them when you are there.

Or once you have chosen your tuner they can probably supply a low boost safe chipset for your injectors to let you drive to them. (I would have thought a standard 3b rs2 chipset with the n75 unplugged would be the easiest/cheapest diy option)

I will send you a PM.

[K Simmonds]

Sounds like some new software is in order.

I thought normal 280bhp chipset was 21psi/1.5 bar tapering to 14psi/0.9 bar?

Sounds like it will be good, punchy but still nice to drive about in.

Why not just drive to Automark with stock injectors, and n75 unplugged if you want to be extra safe, just swap them when you are there.

Or once you have chosen your tuner they can probably supply a low boost safe chipset for your injectors to let you drive to them. (I would have thought a standard 3b rs2 chipset with the n75 unplugged would be the easiest/cheapest diy option)

I will send you a PM.

I have a suspicion MRC that fitted a replacement ECU and some software that's safe but far from ideal, it's not running a full 280 BHP I'm sure of that.

Unless PRJ is over here fairly soon I'm going for Automark, driving there on the wastegate spring is a good idea, I don't really want to get there and have to start messing with injectors and FPR. The 3B RS2 chip set might work very well and I'd have thought it would be fine on spring pressure, probably better than what I have anyway.

[andy10v]

Do you want to borrow the 3b rs2 chips so you can fit the injectors?

You would need to fit the map sensor.

[K Simmonds]

That's a very kind offer mate, Yes, I'd certainly be up for giving them a go if I can get the 3 bar map sensor I have fitted to one of my ECU's, it's a tiny one I got from PRJ a couple of years ago and don't have the soldering skills.

[andy10v]

Removed the rod and popped off the top 2 rings, compression ring cleaned up great, just wiped with petrol, also gave the piston a quick scrub with a toothbrush/petrol.



Second ring has a step in it that is full of carbon so I have left it to soak



How do you remove the oil ring expander? I appears to be a 1 piece spiral?

Is there any reason not to use petrol for cleaning? It seems to work as a good solvent for carbon/general grime

eg 5 second scrub with an old toothbrush and wipe off;

[Error404]

The expander just carefully pulls apart at the end join, but they are really fragile so be careful if you plan to reuse them

[andy10v]

Thanks, needed to get me specs

For reference;



Got new rod bearings, expensive for some slivers of metal, but rather essential.



Piston on new rod, new bearings fitted. The wire lock rings that hold the gudgeon pin are a bit fiddly to refit



All rods in and torqued





Time for a tidy up, then clean sump and refit.

Then time to take 20 valves out

[Error404]

How come you didn't clean it up as a bare block mate?

[andy10v]

Time/money.

This is meant to be quick (ha ha I know, but imagine how long it would take if it was a proper rebuild) and functional. For buying rods, bearings and gaskets I now have a solid bottom end, and I have confirmed the engine is "good".

If I stripped it to a bare block I would want to build the engine you have I don't have the budget for it, and don't have the time to spend on it.

[Error404]

Fair enough mate. I guess you left the crank in place so no need to strip it down all the way
In that case get it sealed and then attack it with the pin-gun I recon

[andy10v]

Tried out the valve spring compressor, just did cylinder 1.



Valves out, used a little brass wire wheel to clean the combustion chamber, also worked well to clean the valve faces.



Before



Seats appear not too bad, so tried a quick lap.

LH intake seat trial lap



LH exhaust seat trial lap



LH intake valve trial lapped



LH exhaust valve trial lapped



Valve stem seals pulled off fine, valves don't slop about too much, not checked with a gauge though.

Exhaust port is pretty caked in carbon or burnt oil, doesn't seem to want to shift though.

[Error404]

Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner on the ports

[andy10v]

Just wash off with water when done?

Anywhere it cant go? Cam bearings?

[Error404]

yeah spray on, leave for 15-20 minutes, scrub with a brush, rinse off with water. Go again if necessary

[K Simmonds]

You love your Mr Muscle Alex

Looking good Andy, the right hand exhaust valve in that pic wasn't seating too well by the looks of it so the compression should be better after the lapping. It's a time consuming but very rewarding job and one I love, I like to get mine so the combustion cambers hold Diesel overnight.