My 95 S2 Avant Project. LZ5T Coolness

[UrS4boy]

Excellent photos Eric. I especially like the head liner removal ones because I need to do this for my S4 V8 avant (headliner cloth is trying to take early retirement while the fibreglas "card" remains valiantly glued to the roof. I need to get at this ASAP so thanks for the encouraging photos.

BTW, I might steal the photos of the sunroof cassette to make a post on cleaning the drains. Hope you will approve.

[irishs2]

Always ... work away.

Unfortunately I got a slight crease as I was removing it.



I think it will not be visible if I am careful with recovering and refitting.

[ralleyquattro]

Perfect, thank you TON!!!

Love the project BTW.

[Error404]

Eric - BTDT with creasing the headliner, I did it to my old one. You can fix it by strengthening it again with two or three sheets of fibreglass on the back

[UrS4boy]

BTW, I might steal the photos of the sunroof cassette to make a post on cleaning the drains. Hope you will approve.

Always ... work away. .

Thanks. I've added the photo below to this post (I'll bring it over here in a day or two).

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/279819.phtml

[irishs2]

Eric - BTDT with creasing the headliner, I did it to my old one. You can fix it by strengthening it again with two or three sheets of fibreglass on the back

Sounds like a plan.





Earlier this week, I tried to remove the rear windows, but didnt finish until today.


To remove the bonded rear side window, you have to remove this cover.


These also have to be removed.


I started with a strand of an old handbrake cable, which was stiff enough on its own
to go through the bond, then in getto fashion attached some handles.


The strand of cable worked fine but I couldn't do the bottom of the window until today. My cheap ebay window removal tool arrived.



Slowly and with multiple passes I cut the bond as close to the metal as possible.
I didnt want to damage a rubber seal.


Success on both sides.


The trim along the roof has rivets that have to be drilled, but that will be the last thing I do before car goes for paint.

Since the rear windows came out so easily, I decided to tackle my sunroof.


Sunroof is held onto the roof with 10mm nuts and bolts. No drama there.
The rooflining and metal lid out of the sunroof were also removed.
Forgot to take pics of that bit.


Corrosion


More.

I decided to clean it and rebuild it and see how it goes.
After the rooflining and metal lid out of the sunroof


Before removing the motor, I marked the tracks to keep timing correct, if there is any timing.


Then I pulled these out.


Close up of the window cable. This is driven by a gear from the motor, push the cable to open, pulling it to close .


The cable guide is attached to the sunroof by four rivets. I think they were steel rivets.


Rusto removo magico.
(electrolysis rust removal)

Tomorrow I will reassemble and test. Fingers crossed.

[irishs2]

Rust removed.


Refinished and greased.







The sunroof panel is attached to the mechanism with 6 torx screws


Back together.



The camera really amplifies the sound, but it does sound fine while operating.



I will be keeping the correct bumper but I also want to be able to fit
the copy RS2 bumper. Next up, I want to reinforce the mounting bracket as 8 rivets does not a bumper mount make.

[irishs2]

Powering the sunroof off the car is easy , + to the motor side connector, and ground to the switch side connector. This is only for non-preselect sunroof.

[UrS4boy]

Great stuff there Eric.

I am not sure how the cables are attached to the motor and the sunroof. Any photos of those?

[audinut]

ahh the memories

[irishs2]

Great stuff there Eric.

I am not sure how the cables are attached to the motor and the sunroof. Any photos of those?

Like this one?

[UrS4boy]

Like this one?

No. My bad.

Not electrical "cables" (I would have said "wires"). I meant the push/pull woven steel cables that the motor uses to make the sunroof do tricks, the ones that run inside those newly refurbished and greased cable guides.

[irishs2]

Ah

Here we go.

[UrS4boy]

Closer to my answer. I presume therefore that the "cables" are fed through one end of the quide tube to a certain point?

[irishs2]

In my case I just market before I took it apart, so I would know how far in the cables should be on reassembly.
There are no sensors on the sunroof so, all the "sensing" is done by that black cog, sensing when fully closed, fully open and tilt.

If the cable is timed wrong , It could have stripped the gear or the cable by pulling the sunroof towards beyond the endpoint . Just in case I used a very small SLA battery and low value fuse.
This is also the case if you are replacing a motor assembly, they have to be in a matched position.

They cables also have to be matched to each other, otherwise it would jam or worse.