Greg_S S2 Coupe 20+ years going strong

[Greg_S]

Just checked the gauge, it is showing about 0.8bar on the gauge when ignition on and engine not running.

I have just reterminated the connection on the oil pump as the eye pretty much fell straight off. I suspect its a poor connection which is causing this mis reading but need to confirm?

Also I have pulled the fault codes and nothing of note stored

[Greg_S]

I have just cleaned up the contacts contorting around the radiator cowling from thread http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...ressure+sensor

The oil pressure gauge sender, F22, has two wires attached to it. Both are powered and ground through the F22. The F22 has both a gauge sender and a pressure switch inside. The pressure switch is 0.3 Bar and, on an AAN harness, the wire is Blue with a black stripe. The other wire is Black with white stripe and goes to the pressure gauge. If I remember correctly the harness either has different sized spade connectors or different sized ring terminals so you can't F it up too bad (only 50% bad).

The other pressure switch (the one that will die and p*ss oil everywhere), the F1 switch, is on a White/Grey wire on the AAN.

All three go to ground when they are active.

The warning light is clear now. However the gauge is still reading 1 bar with the ignition off so I will need to get better access and/or re terminate the connectors. I have used some contact cleaner and some emery paper to start with tonight to see if it helped. Also disconnected the blue and black connectors on the sensor to verify the pressure gauge goes off the scale when its open circuit. And it does so at least it isolates where i need to look.

[Greg_S]

Good and bad news today. MOT all done and passed fine, bad news is the heater matrix has packed up and leaking coolant.

Gonna have a look at what its like to change now and see where im best to get one?

[s2driveruk]

ugh, thats a pig of a job, dashboard out if i remember correctly. Good news on the MOT though....only a couple of months to mine and need to get moving on prep soon too

[Greg_S]

ugh, thats a pig of a job, dashboard out if i remember correctly. Good news on the MOT though....only a couple of months to mine and need to get moving on prep soon too

I knew it was going to be a pig, but I was hoping it wouldnt be a dash out job. Have you got much prep to do?

Given im going to doing the heater matrix I am also after a few other parts at the same time to replace the heater ducting and if the dash does come out I'll get a new dash as mine has 2 screw holes where it had a phone kit at some point.

Just reading threads on changing it.

[nribs]

I replaced heater matrix on my cq 7A.

Two 10 hour days. Lots of yoga positions all over the cabin. Get a good stretch before you start.

Most stressful for me were the clips that hold the flap box to the blower unit. There are 2 or 6 I believe that are impossible to replace iicr.

[david1980]

I replaced heater matrix on my cq 7A.

Two 10 hour days. Lots of yoga positions all over the cabin. Get a good stretch before you start.

Most stressful for me were the clips that hold the flap box to the blower unit. There are 2 or 6 I believe that are impossible to replace iicr.

Really? Its a simple job, if you get stuck in a few hours and it can be swapped/replaced no problem.

[LHD_Kid]

I agree... it's not too bad... quite a lot to do, daunting to see just before you start putting it all back...

Replace the foam on the flaps inside the heater box while you're there... you can buy air conditioning insulation foam tape which does the job nicely.

Good luck!

[Greg_S]

Getting it all out today wasn't as bad as I had thought it might be. I am looking for a new blower box and ducting as the current one had an aftermarket ac system.

Anyone breaking a coupe or cab that I can get these from? It was the matrix that had gone. The most difficult one to get to was the 10mm under the pos stages in the engine bay, putting on lock to the right helped to get some more access.

I had some help today too, as you can see so took a bit longer, probably 4 hours taking my time with photos etc.

Trying to get a valeo matrix now. Found Nissen for 41 but their rads have always failed on me after a couple of years and don't fancy doing this job again anytime soon.

[nribs]

Any loose change? Long forgot love letters? Bearer bonds?

[Greg_S]

That would be nice, found a bit of a Mc Donald's straw and label on the back of the dash is original for the engine code. Going to order some wire wrap and tidy up the wiring in a few places before the dash goes back in, I also have another carpet to fit so will clean it up and decide if it's better than the existing one

[martinjs]

I have to do this also, really looking forward to it.

[Greg_S]

I worked out what the part is for the glovebox. It would have had a non AC glovebox that is much deeper before, but when it had AC it was changed to a smaller AC glove box.

See https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+co...857-857020/#27 the top one is non AC I expect and mine is the lower AC version

The metal bracket I think is related to the glove box but not sure where?

I have spent a little time washing the heater box out tonight and tidying up the speaker wiring on the dash too

[newsh]

Mine had AC and I eventually changed the whole heater box and blower for a non-AC one which is much smaller and lighter. That was done the second time the matrix went
Whatever you do, take all the flaps out of the box and replace the foam which will be falling to bits. Your blowers will work again then.

[newsh]

Oh yes I also got a deeper glovebox but I've never got round to fitting it. Actually I like the way the AC one swings up on the double hinge..