Aarons 8's or better RWD tube chassis build

[quattro-nick]

fantastic work man!!

[Wizard-of-OD]

love

[Dima ABY]

Amaizing pipe work!
Profesional!��

[speeding-g60]

thanks for the kind words fellas. i am definitely learning here, and trying what i can.

its a lot of fun, some frustration, and a LOT of work. but it will be worth it when its completed.

[speeding-g60]

More work done. This is a lot of detail work. No wonder he said the average tube chassis car takes 7 grand for just this sheetmetal and tin work.

[speeding-g60]

Tunnel is officially completed now on to the rear of the hoop.

More tin work today. Tunnel is officially FINISHED! !!
On to the rear part aft of the hoop now. Made some ledges for the tin to bolt to and support inner and outer tin while also giving flanges for the tubs to bolt to.
Pulled the drive shaft enclosure to mark holes for dzus tab it comes out relatively quickly. I think I can have the passenger side and tunnel opened up in well under a minute. All panels pulled wide open work space.

[speeding-g60]

hmmmm been awhile i have updated this one. not much interest in it by you guys it seems to me..... oh well.

random update. i guess i never posted pics of my 3rd member...... it came from this car, it was his backup and not the proper ratio for him at our elevation. it would work great for him in Vegas, for instance.

Strange aluminum 3rd member, with a Pro Gear lightened ring gear, lightened steel spool, yoke loop, forged yoke, 40 spline, 4.30 ratio.

by calculations with this final drive ratio, if i crossed the line at 9000 rpm its 186 mph on the drag radial and on a 32" slick at 9k rpm its 199 mph.

its really not a bad starting point.











this is the car it came from. Rodney won a Wally last year, too, which is an honor and a feat. this is the same level of build, just in an import body with an inport motor setup. this car is in the 700 cubic inch motor range. and that rear tire will be the same i use when i graduate to a slick as well.

[speeding-g60]

So the turbo arrived. And it's not small.

GTX 4508R. 80mm.

Will use nitrous to get it spooled up on to the transbrake. Maybe a 50 shot for 1 second or a little more.

A fair bit larger than the BORG Warner 67mm billet I use now on the AWD car.

[speeding-g60]

i skipped you guys a couple updates.

todays work.











Starting to look like a car now.





Has a firewall now and all.



And now cleaning up some dash sheetmetal in prep for tin.

[speeding-g60]

only a little work. did some cleanup then assisted with the first fire up of the latest Cobra. 427 small block Windsor based motor.

















It has a small block 427 Windsor based motor. The chassis and body is built by somebody local and he builds everything else. He would have built the framework to but he didn't have time with only 10 months or so to make this car happen.



Fully chromed and polished and powder coated Heidt suspension front and rear.

[speeding-g60]

Pic drop.

[speeding-g60]

More dash work.













Then started closing up the a - pillars mess so I have a stable surface to make the tin here have good attachment points.





Some friends wanted to compare the Precision 7675 to the Garrett GTX4508R.

[speeding-g60]

Nova 2 there getting picked up.

[speeding-g60]

gotta look for them, but notice the ghost flames in the paint on the nose.

woman driver putting it in the trailer, too. his girlfriend.

i just REALLY ENJOY the exposure to cars of this level of build and racing as it gives me ideas, i get to see how things are done, what to do and why.

for instance, i learned last weekend, from this car (it was in for scaling, corner weighing and suspension "tune-up") that once set, the rear four link bars are only ever adjusted by the top right bar. if it pulls left on the burnout, turn one way if it pulls right on the burnout turn the other. and it is minute turns or adjustments too. a flat is a big change. same with the launch.

and spring/shock setting. always have the shocks set the same. some people think to preload the right rear or change dampening on it, but this guy builds these cars, he track tunes the suspension with a lot of them, he has successful cars out in the real word.

also, for four link adjusting, always pull one end of one side of the swaybar link; dont matter which one, because changing the suspension geometry will also change the sway bar and it needs to rest neutral after changes.

little stuff i learn for this new (to me anyhow) type of chassis setup will help me.

wheelie bars, having the wheels 5" off the ground, and the left side 1/2" higher than the right.

little stuff i pick up listening.....

[speeding-g60]

little turbo comparo then firewall and dash to cage and a-pillar of car sealup work. Tin Tin Tin. when will it end???

stretcher and shrinker tools are neat. easy to go too far, too. but they are cool for sure.