Brilliant attention to detail in all of your work. Who is (or was) the manufacturer of the CAN bus simulator module?
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A6 Nogaro Blue TDI restomod
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The car sits for so long It even flatspotted the tires but recently I fixed another issue which was long overdue. The original spings were so corroded the front left even broke. So I decided to replace springs and shocks on all 4 corners. It happened to be a nightmare to get the proper part number for shocks as the manufactures catalogues are incomplete. The car has sport suspension from the factory so I wanted to get the correct shocks for it. So I gave the VIN to the retailes and only one Monroe model appears to be compatible - but that is not the case in reality. What I did was to go to ETKA, get the OE number for the correct shock absorber and search by OE number. And voila - multiple options appeared. I asked a friend who is very experienced in this platform which are closest to stock and he advised me to go with KYB Excel-G. Fronts are made in Japan and have the fat rod like the OEM Sachs, The the rears were a bit of a disappointment, the rubber bush where the bottom bolt goes trough has like 30% less material than the OEM ones.
For the springs it was an easy desision, I got an Eibach pro-kit, ordered the wrong one due to the well known (not by me) issue with Eibach catalogue but by sheer luck they hapened to fit my needs perfectly
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And the final result, on the rear the rubber spacer that sits on the top of the spring was the thicker version and that is why the back sits a bit higher. I was thinking to get the proper spacers, but on the other hand I think with 3 people on the back seat and luggage it will sit just right
191389650_10208624180837713_1220012174779767041_n.jpgLast edited by radi_nrj; 3 June 2021, 14:31.
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Done a little progress, first found out the hard way that probably I had to replace the whole injection pump instead of trying to repair it. As of now it has been opened 4 times,
First it was bad seals, seals repalced, pump tested on Bosch machine - test passed
Second was bad fuel pickup pump, pickup pump replaced, injection pump tested on Bosch machine - test passed
Drove the car, still no power
Third try, pump disassebled, lobe wheel measured, they found that the lobes haves some wear, wheel replaced, injection pump tested on a differend Bosch machine - test passed
Now the car works great but when the fuel temp passes 70oC it starts to smoke and if you turn it of it takes a lot of cranking to start it again. So I got a tip from a friend when this happenes to cool the pump head with cold water, did it and the engine started on 1/4 turn. So if yours does that it is 99% worn head/piston.
So now the pump is off for a 4th time. We are waiting for a comeplete head/piston assembly.
Probably you will ask - when the pump was tested on a specialist Bosch machine 3 times why was the worn piston not caught in test. I asked the same question and here is the tricky bit, the test is done at 40-45oC fuel temp. When the wear on the piston is not substantial, at those temps it will still pass the test, but over 70oC due to thermal expansion the presure drops by a lot.
In the mean time I started gathering and preparing parts for the suspension overhaul, got some poly bushes.
Spare rear subframe, sway bar and diff support got sandblasted and powdercoated. Waiting on some more bushes and we will start the swap
Last edited by radi_nrj; 21 August 2021, 01:01.
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Small progress
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Last edited by radi_nrj; 9 September 2021, 17:33.
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The engine passed it's break in period so it was about time for an health check on the dyno. The ECU has a tune for 160hp but still we are 10 less
Dyno run audi.jpg
Dyno run audi 1.jpg
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The A/C started loosing charge after just a mounth and we ran an UV test. We found the the condenser is leaking and I ordered a new one. The fun started when I removed the old one and found that the radiator is made from like 30% pure rust. Ordered a new one and while removing the old one found a torn lower radiator mount and a bad electric fan. Ordered new ones and while disassembling I noticed that the front engine mount is torn too. There was a lot of ordering parts and waiting, several broken bolts but it is almost there
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As the front was disassembled anyways I used the opportunity to finish the headlights with brand new glass lens protected with 3M clear film. The original glass was pitted very badly. Also had to grind a bit the lamp sockets on the high beam becaused the halogen bulb sits rotated at 45° and to take full advantage of the LED bulbs the diodes have to point at 3 and 9 o'clock.
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Got myself S6 white diesel dials, unfortunately the people that made them couldn't print them on red vinyl so now they would illuminate in white. Also found that ome dial have local tint to make the backlight more uniform. My first attempt to fix the issue with of the shelf red self adhesive film failed miserably.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.Last edited by radi_nrj; 4 October 2022, 09:51.
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