Oil recommendations and questions here - The Definitive S2 Oil thread

[1975DCS]

See your thread

I can get Mobil 1 very easily through my work, for reasonable prices as well.
In this thread I remember Oilman mentioning that noisy tappets are not an indication if in oil is functioning well, thicker oil just seems to mask the sounds. Thicker oil is more sound dampening?
Is 3 bar oilpressure at idling really better? Or are we just thinking thank god the oilpump is healthy because of this figure? More pressure is less flow, right?
Why not order Kendall 5W-50 through Kendall Nijmegen?

[1975DCS]

They are fine, the Esso will be fine. If it carries the Porsche approval its probably a PAO synthetic.

Cheers

Simon.

Can you tell us more about this Porsche approval? Because most 5W-40 are VW 502 00 or 505 00, but only a few are Porsche approved. To get the approval from Porsche , what benefits or test would it have to succeed? Extra high temperature stability or something like that?

[oilman]

I can get Mobil 1 very easily through my work, for reasonable prices as well.
In this thread I remember Oilman mentioning that noisy tappets are not an indication if in oil is functioning well, thicker oil just seems to mask the sounds. Thicker oil is more sound dampening?
Is 3 bar oilpressure at idling really better? Or are we just thinking thank god the oilpump is healthy because of this figure? More pressure is less flow, right?
Why not order Kendall 5W-50 through Kendall Nijmegen?

This is correct.

I belive the Mobil 5w-50 is readily available in France.

Cheers

Simon.

[oilman]

Can you tell us more about this Porsche approval? Because most 5W-40 are VW 502 00 or 505 00, but only a few are Porsche approved. To get the approval from Porsche , what benefits or test would it have to succeed? Extra high temperature stability or something like that?

Well there is not a lot to tell really. Its all down to money as per usual, they will have paid Porsche to give their approval, I doubt there is much in the way of testing to see if one is better then the other. But if an oil company is going to fork out huge sums of money to have the approval, its normally one of their better products they do it with. I havent come accross a Porsche approved mineral oil yet.

Cheers

SImon.

[1975DCS]

Well there is not a lot to tell really. Its all down to money as per usual, they will have paid Porsche to give their approval, I doubt there is much in the way of testing to see if one is better then the other. But if an oil company is going to fork out huge sums of money to have the approval, its normally one of their better products they do it with. I havent come accross a Porsche approved mineral oil yet.

Cheers

SImon.

But most likely it is a POA of HC?

[oilman]

Most likely PAO.

Cheers

Simon.

[1975DCS]

Kroon oils is also offering a synthetic and this is a HC / PAO blend. What are the benefits or downsides of a PAO or HC or Ester?

[oilman]

Hopefully this help help,

Basestock categories and descriptions

All oils are comprised of basestocks and additives. Basestocks make up the majority of the finished product and represent between 75-95%.

Not all basestocks are derived from petroleum, in fact the better quality ones are synthetics made in laboratories by chemists specifically designed for the application for which they are intended.

Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows:

Group I

These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding.

Group II

These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures.

Group III

These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as “hydrocracked” or “molecularly modified” basestocks.
They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today.

Group IV

These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules.

Group V

These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO.
The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively.

It is common practice for oil companies to blend different basestocks to achieve a certain specification, performance or cost. The blending of group IV and V produces lubricants with the best overall performance which cannot be matched by any of the petroleum basestock groups.

Cheers

Simon.

[Jon441cc]

Hi simon

Make: Renault
Model: kangoo
Year: 1999
Engine Type: Diesel
Engine Size: 1898cc
Modifications: plylined, blaupunkt tape deck.
Driving style: speedshifting

When it comes to diesels i haven't a clue

[caterpillar]

remember: when the engine are only on bluprints, the oil today,was racingoils in 1977.......!! so todays oils are ALOT better when the engine was constructed,right??
IF the IL5 or any audi/vw engine burning oil(s) they are sick(worn out someplaces) spec the IL5, the have some bad habbits to crack the 3.syl piston....and crack the pistonsquirt,have a closer look at that,and the valveguides,may have a closer look-

[1975DCS]

I found my old 2004 e-mails again from contact with Amsoil regarding my (previous) Opel Astra with Calibra Turbo engine. Might be of interest (or not):

I've just read that your oil beats the big boys.
What would you advice for my tuned european car:
Opel Calibra 2.0i Turbo 16v 4x4
It is tuned to 280 bhp and 400 Nm (from just 2.0 litres)
The turbo runs 1.0 bar steady boost and 1.4 bar overboost
Climat in Holland can be between -10 deg C and +35 deg C but is mostly between 0 deg C and +25 deg C.
A big Mocal oilcooler is in place and oil temps hardly exceed 95 degrees
Max rpm is 7000 rpm, but most power is between 3500-5500 rpm

So what oil (and viscosity) would you recommend?

I am sorry to report that the AMSOIL product may not be available
in Holland. You would have to contact AMSOIL corporate to find
out if there are any distributors in Holland. I am not really
able to help you too much.

However, a few things of interest. The AMSOIL 10w30 is generally
the best oil for a turbo, unless it's a diesel turbo, in which
case our 10w40 is probably a better choice (although there are
some vehicles which would specifically need our 5w40 European
oil).

Another note of interest is that you may be overdoing it with the
oil cooler. I'm assuming you're meaning Celsius when you
describe the top engine oil temp at 95 degrees.

Since water doesn't begin to boil off until it reaches 100+
degrees, any condensation in your engine is not getting a chance
to boil off which will cause acid build-up in your oil,
shortening the useful life of the oil (whether you are actually
changing the oil more frequently or not). That COULD cause very
detrimental conditions within your oil and your engine.

Ideally, you want engine temps to at least get up over 105
degrees or so for optimum burn-off of condensation and for
optimum viscosity of the oil. Remember, viscosity of an oil is
classified based upon a temperature of 100 degrees C, a number
which approximates engine operating temperature. If you are
running engine oil temps significantly lower than that, the
ACTUAL kinematic viscosity of the oil while you're driving could
actually be much higher ("thicker"), thereby robbing your engine
of performance, fuel economy and possibly even protection in some
cases.

Thank you very much for this usefull answer!
Yes, I meant 95 degrees Celsius after about 15 minutes of driving in about 10 degrees Celsius environment. The highest I have read after a little bit of fun is 100 degrees Celsius...

What would be the ideal temperature then: 90 for the fluid 105 for the oil?
The Valvoline 5w-50 I am using now would be way to thick for my oil temp (even with a constant 100-105) then?
The previous owner even used Castrol RS 10w-60, he must have been mad...

I think 105 - 110 top end for the oil would be good. That way
you know that if you at least get the engine up to temp for 15
minutes or so, most condensation should burn off.

90 for the fluid seems good.

As for the 50 and 60 weight oils, I think they are overkill if
you're running a synthetic. If you're really revving on it all
the time and you're not careful about how you shut the turbo down
(if it's not on a timer), then I would probably stick to the 40
weight (like the 10w40) or MAYBE a 50, but not a 60. If it gets
revved up once in awhile and you're more careful about shut down
so the turbo doesn't "cook" the oil, the 30 or 40 should be just
fine, in my opinion.

I knew about Amsoil because of the Evolutions that are driving 30 weights oil. Before that mail I already had switched from 60 (previous owner) to 50. But after that mail I really started thinking of even switching to 40, and I did. I mean he did suggested 30 at first.

[oilman]

Just found this old thread, if you have any oily questions please post em here.

Cheers

Guy.

[stiglet]

Hi,

would like some advice on the following;

Make - Audi
Model - CQ
Year - '90
Engine Type - 7A 20 NON-turbo
Engine Size - 2309
Modifications - nothing major
Driving style - very spirited


Currently using Mobil 1 as it came recommended for my engine, but i reckon its too thin.

Any ideas?

Oil temps do sometimes reach 130+ C, but i'll be fitting a cooler soon.

[20vQC]

on all weather (except the extreme under zero from some countries) I recommed the use of semisynthetic formula 10W-40 and a very strict oil and filter change for about not more than 8K kilometers or 5K miles! hat oil isn't too expensive so you can afford that rent for the good of your engine! 10W-50/60 for hot ambient air. Since the first car in my life I did the internal engine wash every year the car is on my hands, that'd be about 400-500cc of diesel fuel and 70% of the oil capacity, start the engine for 15min with 4 or 5 peaks of 2000rpm ,then turn off and... dirty oil down for one whole night, new filter, new oil and you're done! no damages, very clean engine (internally of course) and an eventually better reliability. 100% synth oils are obviously better but the viscosity/temp ratio is not what I'm looking for... and price is a bit high. THIS WAS MY COMMENT.

Peace!

[oilman]

Hi,

would like some advice on the following;

Make - Audi
Model - CQ
Year - '90
Engine Type - 7A 20 NON-turbo
Engine Size - 2309
Modifications - nothing major
Driving style - very spirited


Currently using Mobil 1 as it came recommended for my engine, but i reckon its too thin.

Any ideas?

Oil temps do sometimes reach 130+ C, but i'll be fitting a cooler soon.

The Mobil 1 0w-40? If so its a good oil and not too thin, are you using a lot of it?

I would suggest either stick with that or go to a 5w-40 synthetic, ester based one to cope with those temps such as the Silkolene Pro S or the Motul 300v.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Cheers

Guy.