Originally posted by Error404
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Quick 'how to' replace fuel lines
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Originally posted by s2driveruk View Posthaving a real struggle to locate any 8mm pipe...non in my local autofactors (partco) or others.
Where can you actually get this Cupro-nickel pipe from, i have the wade's here waiting but without pipe its pointless
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/8MM-X-7-5MTR-C...item2ea2a4e019
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If that ebay link is for clarik engineering, I would recommend them. Got mine from there and it came very quick!
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project
1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)
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If like me you've replaced the whole fuel lines including the engine bay, you'll have difficulty getting the correct flair to fit the oem rubber lines on the end to connect to the fuel rail. I've gone and finished them off with braided lines....
Braided Lines.... here's what you need for the engine bay.
3 x 90degrees AN-6 connector
1 x straight AN-6 connector
2 x M14 bosch adaptors
1m AN-6 braided hose.
2 x an-6 tube nut (or other hard line adaptor)
1st hose - fuel rail return or feed...cant remember which way it flows...
230mm length of braided hose
1 x straight connector - with M14 bosch adaptor on the end
1 x 90degree connector
2nd hose - to the bottom of the fuel reg
240mm length of braided hose
2 x 90degree connector
one end with M14 bosch adaptor
put the hard line adaptor on the end of your hard lines (no need for flares with the ones i used, they use a crush olive inside) and then connect them up...proper job! shame you cant see them much to be honest.
I'll get some pictures up later on over the weekend, i've forgotton my card reader, doh!1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project
1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)
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Originally posted by willg54 View PostIf like me you've replaced the whole fuel lines including the engine bay, you'll have difficulty getting the correct flair to fit the oem rubber lines on the end to connect to the fuel rail. I've gone and finished them off with braided lines....
Braided Lines.... here's what you need for the engine bay.
3 x 90degrees AN-6 connector
1 x straight AN-6 connector
2 x M14 bosch adaptors
1m AN-6 braided hose.
2 x an-6 tube nut (or other hard line adaptor)
1st hose - fuel rail return or feed...cant remember which way it flows...
230mm length of braided hose
1 x straight connector - with M14 bosch adaptor on the end
1 x 90degree connector
2nd hose - to the bottom of the fuel reg
240mm length of braided hose
2 x 90degree connector
one end with M14 bosch adaptor
put the hard line adaptor on the end of your hard lines (no need for flares with the ones i used, they use a crush olive inside) and then connect them up...proper job! shame you cant see them much to be honest.
I'll get some pictures up later on over the weekend, i've forgotton my card reader, doh!Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
Indigo ABY coupé
Imola B6 S4 Avant
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Originally posted by Error404 View PostGood info Will, I was planning to do this originally but couldn't find an appropriate -5 / -6 tube nut for the 8mm hard lines.
earls sell them as well. very easy to fit too
One thing to note...you have to take the fuel rail out to fit the braided lines as you cant get a spanner on them!1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project
1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)
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here we go...my braided lines!
1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project
1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)
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URS4 (or any) Fuel lines tip
Hi,
Here is what I did with the fuel lines of my urS4. They were rusted and started leaking when I moved them a few millimeters.
So if you see your fuel lines in this state just change them and don't suppose they will still last for a while.
I was thinking about the cupronikel lines solution and then I had the possibility to get stock lines for free from a younger S4. There was nearly no rust on them and the paint was still present. I didn't want to have that rust issue coming again so I tried this solution : Heat shrink sleeves. Those are 24mm diameter and shrink to 6mm when heated which is fine for our 8mm lines. Furthermore the final thickness is 1mm.
Here is what it looks like when fitted. I must say I was sceptic at first but very surprised of the way they completely fit the shape of the line when heated.
They are wide enough to fit them all along the curves of the lines so we can have this finish when done
Yes the final lines are 2mm wider so they won't fit in the stock rubber and you'll have to cut them in the way illustrated above (this is a pain in the a** to do) and fit them with the slits facing downward.
i wanted the connecting nuts to be protected as well so I precut a piece of sleeve and put them on the line before fixing the line. Then after fixing the lines and ONLY AFTER checking for any fuel leaks I heated those pieces around the nut assembly. I cannot stress enough that you need to check carefully for any trace of fuel around the heated area as the air blown by the heatgun is at 530°C.
And voila
Just so you can see the thickness of this new "skin"
The rubber is really hard to cut once heated so no fear for the future anymore.
hope it helps!
Cheers
Note : If you want to do this mod, you'll need two boxes of the product presented above or any others that has the same dimension. So a roll of 5meters is not enough to do the lines in one piece.Last edited by hugokx; 2 June 2012, 10:41.
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Originally posted by Jamo View PostHow hard is it o do the lines? Mine are crusty but at some point I want to replace them
Doing up behind the rack is a complete PITA, need the rack out to do it properly. I did it with everything in situ, but it is not pretty or routed properly. (however it doesnt leak which is what I was going for at the time)Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon
Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
Sold ABY-stock
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