Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Quick 'how to' replace fuel lines

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by Error404 View Post
    yup, i think i even closed one without stabbing myself with said screwdriver once
    they are a biatch aren't they!
    The Perfectionist
    sigpic
    Audi Class Concours winner Stoner Park 2014, ADI Concours D'Elegance Class Winner 2008, Runner up 2014. Winner, S2Forum Show'n'Shine Billing 2006 & 2008.

    Comment


    • the type 85 are NLA but only have space for two lines - feed and return.

      Later cars have 3 lines incl the CC. You could probably use the later fittings on the older cars
      Mike

      http://www.s2-audi.co.uk

      Comment


      • yeah I saw that on the pictures at the beginning of this thread, will order some of the new type then

        Comment


        • having a real struggle to locate any 8mm pipe...non in my local autofactors (partco) or others.

          Where can you actually get this Cupro-nickel pipe from, i have the wade's here waiting but without pipe its pointless

          sigpic

          1992 3b S2 Coupe

          Comment


          • Originally posted by s2driveruk View Post
            having a real struggle to locate any 8mm pipe...non in my local autofactors (partco) or others.

            Where can you actually get this Cupro-nickel pipe from, i have the wade's here waiting but without pipe its pointless

            Where else?????

            http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/8MM-X-7-5MTR-C...item2ea2a4e019

            Audi Nut!!!

            Comment


            • If that ebay link is for clarik engineering, I would recommend them. Got mine from there and it came very quick!



              Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
              1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project

              1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)

              Comment


              • A few pictures of mine.














                Thanks S-Express
                Eric

                95 S2 Avant under rebuild.

                Comment


                • If like me you've replaced the whole fuel lines including the engine bay, you'll have difficulty getting the correct flair to fit the oem rubber lines on the end to connect to the fuel rail. I've gone and finished them off with braided lines....

                  Braided Lines.... here's what you need for the engine bay.

                  3 x 90degrees AN-6 connector
                  1 x straight AN-6 connector
                  2 x M14 bosch adaptors
                  1m AN-6 braided hose.
                  2 x an-6 tube nut (or other hard line adaptor)

                  1st hose - fuel rail return or feed...cant remember which way it flows...

                  230mm length of braided hose
                  1 x straight connector - with M14 bosch adaptor on the end
                  1 x 90degree connector

                  2nd hose - to the bottom of the fuel reg

                  240mm length of braided hose
                  2 x 90degree connector
                  one end with M14 bosch adaptor


                  put the hard line adaptor on the end of your hard lines (no need for flares with the ones i used, they use a crush olive inside) and then connect them up...proper job! shame you cant see them much to be honest.

                  I'll get some pictures up later on over the weekend, i've forgotton my card reader, doh!
                  1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project

                  1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by irishs2 View Post
                    A few pictures of mine.

                    Thanks S-Express
                    Its a pleasure, it was worth the effort of writing seeing as so many have found it useful
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by willg54 View Post
                      If like me you've replaced the whole fuel lines including the engine bay, you'll have difficulty getting the correct flair to fit the oem rubber lines on the end to connect to the fuel rail. I've gone and finished them off with braided lines....

                      Braided Lines.... here's what you need for the engine bay.

                      3 x 90degrees AN-6 connector
                      1 x straight AN-6 connector
                      2 x M14 bosch adaptors
                      1m AN-6 braided hose.
                      2 x an-6 tube nut (or other hard line adaptor)

                      1st hose - fuel rail return or feed...cant remember which way it flows...

                      230mm length of braided hose
                      1 x straight connector - with M14 bosch adaptor on the end
                      1 x 90degree connector

                      2nd hose - to the bottom of the fuel reg

                      240mm length of braided hose
                      2 x 90degree connector
                      one end with M14 bosch adaptor


                      put the hard line adaptor on the end of your hard lines (no need for flares with the ones i used, they use a crush olive inside) and then connect them up...proper job! shame you cant see them much to be honest.

                      I'll get some pictures up later on over the weekend, i've forgotton my card reader, doh!
                      Good info Will, I was planning to do this originally but couldn't find an appropriate -5 / -6 tube nut for the 8mm hard lines.
                      Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                      Indigo ABY coupé
                      Imola B6 S4 Avant

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Error404 View Post
                        Good info Will, I was planning to do this originally but couldn't find an appropriate -5 / -6 tube nut for the 8mm hard lines.
                        you need something like these.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-AN6-STRA...#ht_913wt_1037

                        earls sell them as well. very easy to fit too

                        One thing to note...you have to take the fuel rail out to fit the braided lines as you cant get a spanner on them!
                        1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project

                        1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)

                        Comment


                        • here we go...my braided lines!



                          1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project

                          1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)

                          Comment


                          • URS4 (or any) Fuel lines tip

                            Hi,

                            Here is what I did with the fuel lines of my urS4. They were rusted and started leaking when I moved them a few millimeters.





                            So if you see your fuel lines in this state just change them and don't suppose they will still last for a while.

                            I was thinking about the cupronikel lines solution and then I had the possibility to get stock lines for free from a younger S4. There was nearly no rust on them and the paint was still present. I didn't want to have that rust issue coming again so I tried this solution : Heat shrink sleeves. Those are 24mm diameter and shrink to 6mm when heated which is fine for our 8mm lines. Furthermore the final thickness is 1mm.

                            Here is what it looks like when fitted. I must say I was sceptic at first but very surprised of the way they completely fit the shape of the line when heated.



                            They are wide enough to fit them all along the curves of the lines so we can have this finish when done



                            Yes the final lines are 2mm wider so they won't fit in the stock rubber and you'll have to cut them in the way illustrated above (this is a pain in the a** to do) and fit them with the slits facing downward.

                            i wanted the connecting nuts to be protected as well so I precut a piece of sleeve and put them on the line before fixing the line. Then after fixing the lines and ONLY AFTER checking for any fuel leaks I heated those pieces around the nut assembly. I cannot stress enough that you need to check carefully for any trace of fuel around the heated area as the air blown by the heatgun is at 530°C.

                            And voila





                            Just so you can see the thickness of this new "skin"



                            The rubber is really hard to cut once heated so no fear for the future anymore.

                            hope it helps!

                            Cheers

                            Note : If you want to do this mod, you'll need two boxes of the product presented above or any others that has the same dimension. So a roll of 5meters is not enough to do the lines in one piece.
                            Last edited by hugokx; 2 June 2012, 10:41.

                            Comment


                            • How hard is it o do the lines? Mine are crusty but at some point I want to replace them

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Jamo View Post
                                How hard is it o do the lines? Mine are crusty but at some point I want to replace them
                                How far are you doing? The run along the bottom of the car is straightforward, a little bit of fiddling with heatshields, but doable in an afternoon on a driveway with axle stands.

                                Doing up behind the rack is a complete PITA, need the rack out to do it properly. I did it with everything in situ, but it is not pretty or routed properly. (however it doesnt leak which is what I was going for at the time)
                                Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon

                                Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
                                Sold ABY-stock

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X