struikie - Audi 80 B4 quattro project

[struikie]

Still working on the bottom. Brushed off all the rust. Protected with Rustoleum rust converter.
Lots of cleaning to do before 2K primer, 2K grey top coat on the treated areas.
After that Dinitrol 447 light grey on all the surfaces I cannot reach when all is back together.
Still need to do a repair patch on both the holes in the wheel well.



JW

[struikie]

Did some small jobs.
Put the Strongflex bushes in the rear subframe.


Cleaned the mating surfaces, fitted the bearings and tapped the M6 treads.
(need to order a tap for the caliper bolt holes)


Also pressed the lower bushes in place.


JW

[struikie]

Painted the non contact surfaces of the hubs.


Pressed the hubs in place. After that I realized that I could have painted
some more surface on the back of the hubs. Too late now.




Pre assembled the rear subframe strengthening kit.


Sprayed some stuff in ral9004 (signal black) semi gloss 2K, but I should have
bought ral9005 (black) in mat. So I'll repaint those and some other stuff I forgot to do.


JW

[struikie]

Not bad.


JW

[Jeffer]

Looks great!

[struikie]

(Re)sprayed parts with 2k matt black.


refurbished the discs. (same gloss 2k as the calipers)


JW

[struikie]

Got some stuff for the fuel system.


The copper nickel iron pipe will go under the car. After going up with a bend the transition into AN will
happen. Moving the connections up to prevent snagging of the connections when the car is moving over something.
Didn't want to have hoses under the car.








I think I'll weld a tab to the strut brace to hang the pressure regulator on.

Will have to modify the fuel rail by eliminating the original regulator and weld
the bushes on to accept the AN fittings.

JW

[Jaswan]

I wouldn't put any fuel related items above or near the exhaust/turbo side of the engine if I was rebuilding the fuel system as you are.


Jase.

[struikie]

Yes, point taken.
Stock lines cross the exhaust anyway, even with a crimp connection right there.
This is still with the V6 in, so left or right doesn't matter, there are exhausts both sides.
For when the VR6 is in I'll probably relocate to the left behind the headlight as there is now
space with the battery relocated to the boot. The VR6 has the injectors on that side too.
Just had a look and I can't rotate the ABC rail 180° to have the connections on the
front left side.
I'll have a think about this.

JW

[struikie]

Ordered this one from Latvia for 28 euro's shipped.
A little easier to weld the bungs on and give's me options for a different routing.



JW

[struikie]

Updated plan, using the fuel rail I ordered. Location of the filter and FPR should be good for the VR6 setup as well.
Think I'll 3D print a holder for the filter.



JW

[struikie]

Made patches for the mounting points that had rotten away in the rear
wheel wells. I'll have to ask my father-in-law to weld them into place.







JW

[struikie]

It's very good to have a colleague that is a skilled tig welder!





JW

[struikie]

My first AN hose. Not too bad to do.



Also replaced the small vacuum hoses and HT leads (pulled one apart, had to order
a whole set). When removing the injectors the seat of cylinder 4 came out with it.
Glued it back in place.

JW

[struikie]

Treated the major part of the bottom with Dinitrol 447.
Wasn't that difficult to do.
When the car is back on it's wheels, I'll build some wheel stands so I can
lower the lift and have access to the rest of the bottom.
When, in time, the engine and gearbox are out I can get to the final parts.





Welding the left wheel well didn't go according to plan, so had to ask a friend to
try and fix the left and weld the right one.

When that is done I can finish the wheel wells.
After that: Time to start putting things back on!

JW