My Coupe project

[s2driveruk]

Looking really tidy in there!

[SteveH]

[Tractor Dave]

I finished all the driveshafts today.
One tip which makes it easier to get the new boot on is to wrap the end in insulating tape.


Last one to be done.


Now the heat shield on my downpipe is missing. I got some exhaust wrap to take its place. I was thinking of fitting my RS2 downpipe that I have spare but maybe will at a later date.
Front subframe also went up without any issues.


You can clearly see the old bush marks which makes alignment easy.


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[Tractor Dave]

I couldn’t resist fitting my first assembled drive shaft.



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[Tractor Dave]

I found a strap wrench handy for torquing up the prop shaft bolts.



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[Tractor Dave]

I’m using my parts washer to get the worst of the grease out. It says your not meant to use solvents in it but I don’t like water based de greaser, especially for parts that need to be kept dry. I’m using heating oil. It works really well and is relatively cheap. So far the pump hasn’t died.

Then lots of nice clean rags and carefully take apart/clean noting which way the cage and inner race fit.


New grease and boot not forgetting the cup washers.


One down, seven to go.


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[sidrick]

Excellent graft, as ever!

[Tractor Dave]

New SKF joints on the front, or just refurb?

All the joints feel good so wash out, new grease and boots.

[Bowie69]

New SKF joints on the front, or just refurb?

[Tractor Dave]

My rear hubs are coming together.


I need to make up the driveshafts before I go any further and decided the prop shaft would be first.

The diff end joint is new as the old one had some play but the gearbox end joint just had a clean out and new cv grease.
I had to balance the prop up on a platform as I was working on my own.


But we got there and thankfully my centre support markings were clear.




Next job is to rebuild the other four driveshafts.


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[B5NUT]

Also using FAG & SKF, both good makes and have used the on various Audi over the years with no problems.

[Tractor Dave]

Wheel bearing day.
I prefer to use my bearing tool rather than the press. It’s less violent and you can feel exactly what’s happening. Takes a bit longer mind.
This job took much longer than it should have because quite a bit of powder coat had found it’s way past the masking onto the bearing surface. It’s a ****** to get off as well.


I bought FAG for the rear and SKF for the front.
I think they are both good makes.


There is a set way to putting bearings in. Get it wrong and you ruin the bearing.
Outer race supported first.


Then swap over to an old bearing cleaned up to go the last few mm.


You can easily feel when the bearing hits the stop.
On the front carriers, you need to grind the edge of an old bearing otherwise it can get stuck. We don’t want two wheel bearings in there!


Then the hub. Now you must support the inner race from behind. No pic (I forgot) but my tool has the correct bush to support the bearing.


The FAG bearings come with some nice goodies included. You don’t need the lock rings for the S2.


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[Tractor Dave]

Paint mark each bolt when torqued, no paint = not torqued.

Good plan

[Bowie69]

Paint mark each bolt when torqued, no paint = not torqued.

[Tractor Dave]

I made good progress today.
All the wishbone bushes pressed in without any issues.


I was going to use the same tool as before but the bush will only take M10. So, improvised in the vice.


You can only go so far with this socket then you have to swap over to this.


Then test fitted one.


So then made a start on the shocks.


The instructions from Koni are pretty skimpy.
I didn’t like the idea of adding anti freeze either. The rear shocks were the original and looked to be untouched from new. They had a small amount of light oil in the strut. So, instead of adding antifreeze, I put 50ml of oil in.
Shocks set to one turn off fully soft.


My home made tool worked and I managed to torque the strut cap to 120nm which was a challenge!

I had to adapt my slotted nut tool as it was going to foul the top bush.
It needed a little trim.


Then fitted the first strut in the car.
I feel I’m making progress now.


I need to make a list of all the bolts that need torquing up when it’s on the ground so I don’t forget anything.


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