My Coupe project

[K Simmonds]

No, didn't do that
When I did the Avant with string, guy doing the tracking was amazed how close I got it. Most tractors are done with just string.

A straight line is a straight line mate, be it laser or string, but you know that as well I do.

When I set out a cut roof on a building I only use string, a dead straight 13' foot scaffold board, some datum points along with a highly accurate 6' level and I'd put money my roofs being just as straight as those done with a laser. Might take me a touch longer, but that's how my father taught me to do it and that's how I'll always do it.

[K Simmonds]

Here's the tracking information in case you need it.

Also this is a test to see if I can get better pictures of the windscreen info for B5NUT as well as everyone else. I did this shot free hand but it took over ten attempts, my evening meds and some very deep breaths before I got one this good. There's pages of windscreen data to contend with, all the Valium on earth wouldn't be able to keep me still enough to manage that.



I don't why it says the Castor is non adjustable when I know for a fact it is, I mean why give a figure and tolerance's for something that's supposedly fixed, makes zero sense to me that one.

[Tractor Dave]

No, didn't do that
When I did the Avant with string, guy doing the tracking was amazed how close I got it. Most tractors are done with just string.

[K Simmonds]

You'll be on the road before long at this rate!

It's surprising how accurate one can get the tracking using string, as long your happy with having zero toe adjustment, I did the string thing and set the camber with a digital gauge on my old 3B to get to the tracking place. I'd managed to get the tracking on the front close to or within tolerance's, however both rear wheel were toed in by over 30 minuets whereas they should be toed out by about 10 mins. Five min's on the front.
,
Did you set the wheel bearing housings to max negative camber by putting a jack under the hub before tightening the two strut to bearing housing bolts up?

This has a couple of advantage's, first it's means you can separate the housings from the struts in future and be able put them back together again in exactly same place. Secondly it buys you at least half a degree of extra negative camber each side which means you can get both sides set to max negative (1.2 degrees) without having to push the ball joints out so far which on the front allows for extra castor adjustment and you want much positive castor as possible there. I ended up with mine set at close to three degrees of castor each side, one was actually just beyond tolerances, but I told the tracking guy to leave it there as the camber dead on the same each side..

[Tractor Dave]

Not deformed, just poorly moulded. The old ones slide in no issue.

[Nuvo]

Sorry, the picture made me think you had a mix up. So the channel is deformed? I've got a spare set here I'll have a check too.

[Tractor Dave]

I just put the new clip in the track for the picture. They are mounted correctly on the car.
The problem is that the track the clips run in is too tight. I have sanded the start points a little and got two out of three to engage. More tomorrow.

[Nuvo]

You've got the clip upside down. You have it facing them same way as it should when they are mounted on the T-pins along the doors.
The strip should just slide along the door clips from the back to the front of the door.

[Tractor Dave]

Got the rear bumper back on.
These screws were rusted solid.


I had to cut them very slowly and with cold water intermittently to avoid heat damage to the plastic.
I’ve used stainless fittings.


Anyone else had issues fitting these new trims from Audi Tradition?
The groove is badly formed.


I’ve done the tracking front and rear using string to get me to the tyre place for proper alignment.



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[Tractor Dave]

Good plan. A spin out your way will be nice

[K Simmonds]

Fair play Dave, you've made great progress with this car, looks smashing, hope to see it in the flesh in a month or so if you fancy popping up for a cuppa.

That door card covering foam breaks down into what can only be described as a uniquely irritating substance, I have the fronts on my RS2 to do so may as well put all four on the list, their just about hanging on at the moment. However with Alcantara trim one has to extra careful as the orange stuff instantly bonds with the fibres on contact and isn't easy to get off, yay, that's going to be a fun job.

[Tractor Dave]

There is always something to do on these cars. That's why we love them

[steve briance]

Its going to be wanting for nothing for quite a long time once it is back on the road. Some enjoyable trouble free motoring coming your way soon

[Tractor Dave]

I got the wheels back on and the car on the ground. Torqued up the wishbones, top strut nuts, hub nuts and the front arb bush bolts.
Doing the wishbones isn’t easy due to restricted access. I couldn’t get my torque wrench on the front bolts so used to rear ones to calibrate my wrist!
Then onto exhaust.
The internal sleeves on the springs were rusted out. I figured these were just to hold the spring off the bolt. I didn’t have any steel sleeves so made some in copper.


New bolts of course but not stainless as they aren’t up to the job.
Then plenty of copper grease on the olives and sleeves.


And my trusty window cleaner pole assistant.


It all got fitted.

The back box is touching the heat shield so I need to make some adjustments.


The home made spring bushes seem to be working.


The car has got rather dusty whilst it’s been on the lift.


Plenty more to do before I get it on the road.


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[Tractor Dave]

Unfortunately the leather ones fall off just like the cloth. Just had to do my Avant ones which were leather (vinyl actually).