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Just realised this wrong project thread, bother, but it doesn't really matter, you have the info which is what I intended. If I'd like me move the post over I don't mind doing so at all.
If by some chance they work with your Italian Nothelle rims then your welcome to borrow one to use a template for printing, which I think is a great idea.
Is everyone 100% sure the setup is toe out at both ends as I'm fairly sure + denotes toe in not toe out. I've always thought driven front ends are always toe in as the torque pulls the wheels toe out when under load and toe out makes it hard to hold a straight line. Before I bought my tracking sticks, I took my Cq to be tracked and the garage was adamant the rear was toe out and set it 20' that way. After driving only a few hundred yards, I turned around and went back to have it put back to toe in; the back end was squirming all over the place! Once put back to toe in, it drove in a straight line again. The fwd cars are toe out on the rear so I suspect the garage didn't have the listings for a quattro.
My Haynes manual says toe in on the front too. Ok that's for a fwd but the front is the same on fwd and quattros...
Is everyone 100% sure the setup is toe out at both ends as I'm fairly sure + denotes toe in not toe out. I've always thought driven front ends are always toe in as the torque pulls the wheels toe out when under load and toe out makes it hard to hold a straight line. Before I bought my tracking sticks, I took my Cq to be tracked and the garage was adamant the rear was toe out and set it 20' that way. After driving only a few hundred yards, I turned around and went back to have it put back to toe in; the back end was squirming all over the place! Once put back to toe in, it drove in a straight line again. The fwd cars are toe out on the rear so I suspect the garage didn't have the listings for a quattro.
My Haynes manual says toe in on the front too. Ok that's for a fwd but the front is the same on fwd and quattros...
You know what I can see the logic in you thinking. I've always assumed + denoted toe out but as I only ever set things as close to zero as I can get using string myself then get it aligned properly I don't think I've ever actually checked what symbol denotes which setting. I'm about crash out but I'm google this in morning over my first Coffee.
Right, I must be corrected as it appears I was wrong. + or positive is toe in. - or negative is toe out. So I had it **** backwards.
To be fair to myself the very old tracking gauges I learnt the basics on at work some 15 years simply just had a zero point with a scale in minuet's in either direction (no denotation of +/-). I was told by the mechanic who owned them and showed me how to use them that positive meant toe out. He was wrong, hence I have been wrong. This explains a couple of this I noticed when using those 1970's gauges that I won't go into here as it would be an essay of epic proportions...
Taken from Wikipedia...
Negative toe, or toe out, is the front of the wheel pointing away from the centreline of the vehicle. Positive toe, or toe in, is the front of the wheel pointing towards the centreline of the vehicle.[
Busy day.
Filled her up with radiator flush. Using the old bottle to avoid staining the new one.
Ran her up to temp and let her idle for about 15 mins. No leaks anywhere and everything is good.
Went to move her and the brakes were spongy so back on the ramp for another bleed. Front wheels off for access.
All done then drain the radiator flush and swap to new bottle and fill 50/50 with G12.
All good I thought until I went to test the lights. No dipped beam. I need to re investigate my steering wheel wiring. Sob.
Anyway. The S2 is having a short break while I change the cambelt and clean the variable vanes on the turbo on this little gem.
While all this was going on I pulled the Avant out and fired her up in the sunshine.
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Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
More great progress, you'll be able to test that wheel centre cap I have in no time... Good luck with A2 they're smashing little cars but not nice to work on compared to our old buses, lot's of brittle plastic crap to contend with and the engine bay is cramped though I'm sure you've clocked that already.
More great progress, you'll be able to test that wheel centre cap I have in no time... Good luck with A2 they're smashing little cars but not nice to work on compared to our old buses, lot's of brittle plastic crap to contend with and the engine bay is cramped though I'm sure you've clocked that already.
Yes, the A2 can be a PITA to work on, especially the turbo as it's against the bulkhead
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
Yeah, I've done the turbo on one some year's ago, so long ago I can't really offer any good advice. I know it caused me to great a bit excited shall we say, I had to take a break and fit four tyres to some steels to get rid of my fury before tools started be tested for aerodynamics . One job that takes as long as it takes, I seem recall having to constantly keep adjusting the height of the lift to be able reach stuff.
Is everyone 100% sure the setup is toe out at both ends as I'm fairly sure + denotes toe in not toe out. I've always thought driven front ends are always toe in as the torque pulls the wheels toe out when under load and toe out makes it hard to hold a straight line. Before I bought my tracking sticks, I took my Cq to be tracked and the garage was adamant the rear was toe out and set it 20' that way. After driving only a few hundred yards, I turned around and went back to have it put back to toe in; the back end was squirming all over the place! Once put back to toe in, it drove in a straight line again. The fwd cars are toe out on the rear so I suspect the garage didn't have the listings for a quattro.
My Haynes manual says toe in on the front too. Ok that's for a fwd but the front is the same on fwd and quattros...
So, the little A2 is sorted so we are back on the S2.
Today I decided to tackle the door cards and headliner.
Door cards came off nice and easy.
I wish the headliner was as easy.
All the trims removed and car reposition into the sun to warm the adhesive.
After lots of gentle persuasion, out it came. It was really well stuck in. Luckily the coupe headliner base is fibreglass so quite strong compared to the cardboard in the Avant.
Also much easier to remove the disintegrating foam.
About an hour later, it’s nearly done.
Unfortunately I now have another little problem to sort. The clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I’ve ordered a new Sachs slave. Cry.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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