My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[jp_paul]

In respect to the clip does anyone have a picture of the underside of a coupe with the handbrake cables in the picture. Both Tractor Dave's & my car only have a single clip, and Etka states there should be 2 fitted to the car!

Funny you say that as I only have one. I was thinking of making another but perhaps there’s only supposed to be 1 after all…

[B5NUT]

Very strange. Well guess I'll just stick with the single support.

[B5NUT]

Few other jobs done this evening.

Removed the larger of the output oil seals on the diff, using a wood screw again and a pry bar.

1-seal.jpg

To press the new seal in I got the same engineering firm that made the sleeves for the bushes to cut a bit of steel plate the same depth as the seal which made putting the seal in easier, and I know it's gone in square. That's all the seals done just need to give the output & input shaft a clean up and a lick of paint.
2-plate.jpg

Rebuilt the rear struts
3-shocks.jpg
Cannot wait to drive the car again but its at least another 1-2 months away (weather depending....)

Question am I best filling the diff before refitting back to the car?

[Tractor Dave]

Nice work again.
Yes, fill the diff on the bench. Much easier. You can also turn it on its side slightly to check your seals and diff lock arm boot aren't leaking. 1.3 litres from memory. EP90 gl5.

[jp_paul]

I've got 0.9L 75w90 GL5 in my memory bank for an AEC. But agree with you Dave on filling it on the bench!

[B5NUT]

Not sure if it makes any difference, but according to my service book my diff is AYV. Read a few threads about diff oil and I've seen values from 0.9 to 1.9 litres.

Not noticed any markings on the diff, is there anyway to confirm that I do still have the AYV diff in the car.

[jp_paul]

Ah ok, sorry. I thought S2s and Cq20V's had the same diff. I'm sure your options plate is right but my diff code is stamped underneath, on the flat bit near the input end...

[B5NUT]

I had no idea what was fitted to the car, so had to go and check. Found AYV then double checked that in Etka to make sure that was a diff. Etka also listed 3 diff options and one of them was the AEC. I need to check but I'm sure there is nothing on underside of my diff.

[johne]

Very strange. Well guess I'll just stick with the single support.

Yes, my car ('95 ABY) only has one support. I guess the logic became that as the RHS is supported by the heat shield, we can save a few pfennigs on a stainless clip

[Lago Blue]

A question sir: Perhaps you're still intending to install the rear strut's bump-stop and bellows later on, correct?

Coupe Q Rr strut 7Zap illus. Screen Shot 2022-01-29 at 12.58.29.png

[B5NUT]

Yes, that dawned on me this morning when I picked up the bump stops & dust covers off the shelf, and the penny dropped!

Already rebuilt. O well at least that was only time wasted..
1-shocks.jpg

[sidrick]

Lost count of the number of times I've done the same

Great work, as ever!

[B5NUT]

Over the last week most of the time has been spent under the car again. Once the first coat of expoy had dried, it was time for the seam sealer, it's horrible stuff to apply and impossible to get the factory finish. This was applied to all the area's when the factory underseal had been removed.
1-seam.jpg


2-seam.jpg
3-seam.jpg

That was left for a couple of days before another coat of expoy was applied.

Then the car was masked up so the schutz could be applied with the schutz gun
4-mask.jpg
All the sill edge were masked off as I will be painting that a 2K satin black, and you cannot over paint the schutz.
5-mask.jpg

Well this may not be to everyone's liking, and if I ever need to remove this stuff it's going to take many days, but it will protect the car and it's been applied with everything off the underside and the rust removed! It also give a kind of factory finish V the brushed on affect of the seam sealer and epoxy.
6-schutz.jpg
That will now be left to dry for the next couple of days, then I will make up new brake lines and the all the fuel lines & connectors should arrive by early next week along with the heat shield material.

[B5NUT]

Another job ticked off the list today was the rebuilt of the track rods. All the parts I talked about on page 20 worked very well and the bushes were a perfect fit.
1-tie.jpg
For the larger of the two boots it was fairly easy getting the old metal clips back on
2-cip.jpg
However the ball joint clip was a complete pig to get back on. Found that securing the boot with copper wire first then running the metal clip around the boot did the job.
3-clip.jpg4-clip.jpg

For grease, I just used the same grease you use on CV joints. Hope it's the correct grease.
5-grease.jpg

[Lago Blue]

"Found that securing the boot with copper wire first then running the metal clip around the boot did the job."

Brilliant sir!