My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[B5NUT]

Out of interest, could I not just run a new larger gauge wire?

[Jaswan]

I'm no expert myself as I have no factory wiring in my car but, iv read that people have issues where the connector gets hot, looses its shape and "unplugs" at the fuse box....

I'm sure someone can give you a real world example of their experience though.

Jase.

[Tractor Dave]

Are you doing this mod to your S2?

Yes. I've already done the Avant. It also gives you the option to fit a hidden cut switch which is a handy additional imobiliser.

[newsh]

Post #5

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...-panel-removed

[steve briance]

I have done the modification and couldn't beleive how thin the factory wire was.

I have a 7A engined coupe which is doubtless provided with more than enough fuel from the pump but i can see why the wire gets hot...


Measured at the fuel rail in 15 second bursts as per Bentley book; My standard pump pumped more with a bigger wire. Nothing to be gained from pumping more fuel the engine doesnt use but it just shows how restrictive (and therefore hot) the orginal wire is.

[B5NUT]

Thanks for the the responses on this. I won't be able to sort this until the car is back on it's wheels. So yet another job adding to a still growing list..

Got the fuel tank in the car today. It's pleasing to get big chucks of metal back in the car.
1-tank.jpg

Even managed to fully secure the clamp, using an inexpensive, ready available and simple to use bent bit of metal bar....
2-tank.jpg

I've said it once and I'll say it again, the garage that worked on this car were a bunch of cowboys.

[B5NUT]

Any know if there is a filter before the fuel goes into the injectors? Just been looking at the old pipe work and whoever made them up could not even be arsed to remove the burrs. I'm tempted to have my injectors tested if possible.

1-pipe.jpg

[Tractor Dave]

There is a small screen on the FPR and each injector has its own little screen.

[Jaswan]

Any know if there is a filter before the fuel goes into the injectors? Just been looking at the old pipe work and whoever made them up could not even be arsed to remove the burrs. I'm tempted to have my injectors tested if possible.

1-pipe.jpg

I'm also looking to have mine tested/cleaned if you know anywhere local



Jase.

[B5NUT]

To be honest I would not mid ripping them out and having them cleaned and checked. I've sure Mr China said that injectors are good for around 100K miles, and I remember he was working on a merc around that mileage and the spray patten on the old injectors was poor on most of them and one was more of a dribble than a nice mist. I would to like buy replacements but I know they are no longer available. If I find anywhere I will let you know.

[B5NUT]

Started the fuel lines today. I've ordered a torques fitting and a lifesaver hose tail which will need to be silver soldered, will see if I'm able to do myself! So will see what turns up next week and and see what fitting I'm going to use.

Started making up the fuel lines today, started with the feed pipe. As I don't have the original factory lines I'm left with the bodged pipes which look they have been hand bent.

So I'm not wasting the Kunifer pipe I'm using the old pipe to make bend templates. Right is the bodged hand bent one, middle is the tool bent pipe with hand mods and then the final pipe is just made up using the tool.
1-pipe.jpg
To bend the pipe I'm using blue-point TBS200A pipe benders. I purchased them a few years ago for the brake line on the A4, but the radius on the blue-point tool is quite large compared to the bends on the brake pipe, so used a small cheap pipe bender I got off ebay for the brake lines and the blue-point benders got chucked in the tool box and never used again until now.
2-benders.jpg
So first pipe bent, just need to sort the ends now.
3-pipe.jpg
Also fitted the feed line from the tank, that did need a little work however before it was fitted. The banjo union was rusty and the alloy pipe had also a very small amount of pitting where it was clamped to the car.
4-pipe.jpg
So it was all cleaned up and sprayed yet again the 2K clear etch.
5-pipe.jpg

With the weekend forecast for rain and even more rain, that's the end making pipes for the car for the next few days. Think I'll see if I can clean up the old heat shields as I got some bits to repair them today.

[B5NUT]

So not a drop of rain turned up yesterday, could have continued with the pipework, but got on with the heat shield as they needed doing before I can fit anything to the car.

Started with this, cleaned it up a couple of weeks ago, just needed a little hammering back into shape
1-start.jpg

Also removed all the fiberglass material & tape around the edges.
3-fiber.jpg

To repair the mounting holes on my heat shield I was given some old heat shield material from Tractor Dave, so yet again another thanks for helping with my build Dave.

I would like to say I thought I was hard done by with the rattle can schutz on my car, but what had been done to Dave's S2 was another level, the mind boggles as to why you would remove the exhaust and then spray the entire heat shield in schutz is beyond me, it's next level bodging just glad I never had to clean up Dave's S2.

I did try an start to clean this mess up but gave up in the end so I'm cleaning up the sections that I cut out.
2-omg.jpg
With patches cut out and bent into shape, low profile pop rivets were used to secured the patches in place
4-patch.jpg

Back of the rivets were ground down to stop them rubbing against the underside. Out of the 12 mounting holes on the middle shield 8 of them had to be repaired in the same way.
5-patch.jpg

Was looking around for a solution to replace the fiberglass. I eventually found material that was cheap enough form these guy's. Car Safety (turbozentrum.co.uk) It was still not cheap at around £30 for a 60x90cm sheet, but some of the prices I was seeing was over £100 for similar size sheets (slightly different material) I only got one sheet as I want to make sure it was going to do the job before buy more. The material was a bit too thick @8mm but was easy enough to peal it in half so I now have a 3-4mm thick which is still thinker than the OEM material Audi used.
6-material.jpg

I attached the fiberglass in 3 section as it's not self adhesive, and used heat shield tape to secure it to the back.
7-repair.jpg

End results look like this
8-finish.jpg
9-finish.jpg

I'm still undecided if I should continue to clean them up any further, think I have 3 options.

1. Leave then as is now, finish is good enough.
2. Get some wide heat shield tape and cover the surface
3. Spray paint using rust oleum heat resistant paint, only concern would be it flaking off and then looking worse than what I have now.

Decisions

[Tractor Dave]

Nice work. Very impressive. Glad you could make use of my scrap. Option 1 I suggest. It looks fine.

[B5NUT]

Second heat shield is now complete. Every mounting point on that shield was corroded away1-shield.jpg

2-shield.jpg
Got some new speed nuts as well, these are larger than the original ones, and I'm going to coat these with epoxy to try and stop the galvanic corrosion that takes place.
12-nuts.jpg

Received my new Mercedes door lock actuator yesterday. So had to convert this
3-act.jpg
to this
4-act.jpg
First started by putting the plastic end in the vice cracking the plastic connector away.
Then using an M4 tap to put a thread on the end.
4-thread.jpg
There will be a small gap between the two section of threads, it machined like that from the factory
5-thread.jpg
Tapped an M5 thread into two of the mounting points
6-thread.jpg

The third mounting point is a little interesting, the middle hole is in a slightly different location, so will need to modified the bracket and the third hole is only 6mm deep on the new actuator.
7-hole.jpg

All done and just hope this Merc part works.
8-done.jpg

Also continued the work on the fuel filter cover

Cut some of the plastic away so I could build up the repair
9-plastic.jpg
Using black milliput epoxy putty to fill the holes completely
10-mill.jpg
I've filled either side of the hole so it has something to grip to and won't just crack away if it's too thin.
11-filled.jpg
I'll give it a couple of days so I know it's completely cured, before I machine it flat and drill the holes in.

Also started replacing the hose's on the expansion chamber. They are not damaged, just figured while I'm there I may as well replace every rubber fuel hose possible. I also want to change all the engine bay fuel pipes & hoses at some point.
12-chamber.jpg
Just need to sort out some new clips now as the old ones look a bit rotten
13-clip.jpg

[Rikki Kitto]

I'm also looking to have mine tested/cleaned if you know anywhere local



Jase.

https://www.injectortune.co.uk/index.html