Black Ur Project

[Tractor Dave]

I found why the nuts were missing. New ht leads fitted without the proper protective tube. Aftermarket set I imagine.
Yes, there is an accumulator but a bit crusty. What is yours like?I

Think I found the issue. Aux air valve is dead. This is open on start and slowly closed as soon as engine is running. It's stuck open and power probe test shows it's not moving. This will cause rich running all the time and probably erratic idle. Anyone have a spare?

[Tractor Dave]

This is what I need.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[K Simmonds]

Ahh, that explains the missing nuts. Later cars had a small blower that would direct coolish air at the injectors and the duct for that doubled as a plug lead holder.

The acumulator I've got on the shelf has been painted black with some sort of industrial paint and was sold as reconditioned, though I don't really see what you can do other than paint it. The one under my car is so rusty I'm scared to touch it until it's over the pit where I can easily work on in. I may be prepaired to part with the one I've got as a replacment, need to try out my alternative fueling idea first though in NA form to see if the concept works. Won't be too long as adjustable FPR's aren't expensive so I don't mind expermenting, I've been brousing them on eBay this morning as it happens.

That Aux air valve sounds like the issue, obviously you've tried cleaning with WD40 or the like by the looks of it, you could try chucking it a cup of diesel overnight then rinsing it with brake cleaner to see if it free's off. Though It looks like it's diaphram operated from the shape of it so you could wire brush the hell out of those two nuts/studs, give them a good soaking in penetrating oil and see if they shift. If you can get into and see how it works you maybe able to either fix it or consign it to the bin. I may even have a spare one of those, it does look vaugly familiar, though where it maybe I have little idea other than in the attic in the bottom of a box or I may have chucked it in with all my spare 16V Golf K-Jet items which I can check easily, it might be from a Porsche though. Will have a quick look when I go back out to cut firewood.

[Polarsilver]

Lurking in background and this Urq Fueling stuff is very interesting to me.. can i ask where i can get the Phil Payne ..K-Jet information as i understand he has passed some time ago & his info seems to be NLA.
Just one though have you looked inside the Petrol Tank for corrosion as in our Urq this was a big issue that i am still coming to terms with crap in the fuel system.

[Tractor Dave]

Lurking in background and this Urq Fueling stuff is very interesting to me.. can i ask where i can get the Phil Payne ..K-Jet information as i understand he has passed some time ago & his info seems to be NLA.
Just one though have you looked inside the Petrol Tank for corrosion as in our Urq this was a big issue that i am still coming to terms with crap in the fuel system.

http://www.quattro.sealtd.net/ishamr...tro/index.html

Apparently the tank was drained and is clean. I will be checking.

[Tractor Dave]

So I didn't get around to pump pressure test today as I want to do the relay mod on the fuel pump and I haven't got a spare fused relay. Doing the mod makes it a doddle to test fuel pressure as you can energise the pump with a simple switch without having to turn the ignition on.
So, pulled the spark plugs and they are the budget version.

HT leads also look like a cheap aftermarket set and are interestingly marked. The dizzy cap has been marked up but the leads go to different cylinders????? It runs though and no coughing or mis fire so very strange.


Anyway, pulled all the spark plugs, removed the live to the coil, removed relay 10 for the fuel pump and held my breath.


All cylinders are around 8 bar. Phew! No engine rebuild required. Min is 5 bar.
This doesn't totally eliminate head gasket failure but it's less likely.

Warm up regulator was cleaned and replaced. The ohms are ok.


I will pressure test hot and cold later.

I found some cracked pipes but no leaks. Everything will be replaced in due course.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jbrentd]

Good news on the compression test. I'm about to relay my fuel pump as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rikki Kitto]

Think I'll have to have a chat with my bank manager

[Tractor Dave]

Good news on the compression test. I'm about to relay my fuel pump as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's so easy on the Ur and Coupe due to the battery position. I think I've done five or six now

[Tractor Dave]

Think I'll have to have a chat with my bank manager

For my go fund me paint job

[Rikki Kitto]

Either to buy this project when finished or drop my shed off as your next one

[K Simmonds]

I have a few fuel pump relays with the fuse fitting spare if you need one.

I like the plug lead markings, can sort of see the logic but it would make way more sense to mark them in the firing order, really makes me wonder who's been let loose on this car.

I notice there's a pipe going to to top of the wastegate, as you probably know this is normally just a vent, it can be used by some engine managment systems but I have to wonder if that's correct for a WR?

[Tractor Dave]

Well spotted. I'm not sure as this is slightly different to my 86 Ur. I will need to check.

[newsh]

MAC01 controls the idle speed via ignition timing, you could bypass the air valve for now by blocking it off.

Check your idle stabilisation microswitch is connected on the throttle body and is adjusted to close as the throttle closes. Make sure the wires are not broken and have not been swapped with the WOT switch. Hopefully the throttle stop and air bleed have not been messed with.

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers John. Slowly working my way through things and putting them right. Just ordered 5 Bosch platinum plugs for £80 ouch! I remember when Audi Driver magazine were selling these for £5 each. Also going to get a set of Magnacore HT leads as fitted a set on the Ocianic Ur and very impressed. Also getting a Bosch dizzy cap and the correct rotor arm. I suspect the one in there is the wrong size.
I'm sure the wastegate top outlet is not meant to be connected to vac. Well spotted Kit! I just need to find where it should be now. I can't see any obvious unconnected pipes.
The connections at the throttle body all look very good and tamper free, even the air temp sensor is mint. However, the air screw on the throttle body isn't very tight