Black Ur Project

[Tractor Dave]

This is the only rust I found. Same both sides. Nothing major but will need a clean and treatment.

Also, unfortunately a small patch on the nearside of the windscreen.


Anyone got a drivers door handle lock?



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[K Simmonds]

That looks amazing for a car that age, what year is it? It looks almost identical underneath to my 1989 B3 80, but the rubber componants are considerably more perished, body wise it looks very good!. The only bit that might be a headache is the screen edge rust which could turn into quite a bit of work, normally theres twice as much rust as you can see with that sort of corrosion and I imagine it'll need a bit of welding with the screen out and perhaps the nearside wing will need to be removed... That said you get lucky and it only be minor surface problems.

The door handle looks identical to a MK2 Golf, I'm 99% sure it's a shared part and I have a spare with a good lock. Once my G60 is done all my MK2 stuff can go and I don't need handles or locks for that car so I should be able to help you with that.

[newsh]

The main exhaust pipes on these old cars are reasonably good stainless steel but the boxes are low grade and tend to rot out.
What we used to do was cut away the centre box from the long pipe (the pipe goes straight through it and is perforated) and weld some sheet over the perforations. That gives you a single box system and it sounds like a quattro.
Where exactly is the big hole?
I think I might have a rear box in the roof of the garage :think: it was new but a mild steel one?
I also might have some boot carpet bits left over..

[newsh]

Aerial might be repairable, you can get some spare parts still like the whip, motor will probably need stripping and greasing or the relay might be dodgy and there’s a cap which controls the run time. I spent many hours rebuilding mine from two or three scrap ones.
If the amplifier is blown you can bypass it and fit a cheap generic in line one, I’ve got a couple of spares I got off eBay.

[Tractor Dave]

The hole is in the rear box section visible here.


I would love a Miltek but not keen on the new version that needs holes drilling in the boot floor.
Let me know what you find.
Cheers


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[Tractor Dave]

Just been tinkering before fully getting stuck in.
Fixed the gear change linkage with my spare link.
Thought I would pull the wur to see if it's clean.


I noticed half the nuts missing on the rocker cover. Interesting. Has someone been in there and started something then given up? We will see. Wouldn't help with vacuum and may explain poor running?

The intake gauze is clean. I will open it up tonight.
The coolant metal pipe will need attention.


Where do you stop? I can see this turning into an epic restoration.


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[4WDrifter]

What way poor running? Do you think there’s a warm up regulator problem?

[Tractor Dave]

Starts ok but idle all over the place and high.
Just working my way through all the possible causes. Will do pump pressure and injector flow test etc etc

[K Simmonds]

That WUR gauze looks spotless, must have been cleaned I'd have thought or always run on high grade fuel like Shell's posh stuff, as long as the diaphram inside is okay and the resistor is within range ohm's wise then that's not the problem. Iratic high idle on a K-Jet is almost always unmetered air getting in post metering head my next guess would be ignition timing being advanced or perhaps cambelt a tooth out.

First thing is a compression and leak down test as that rules out any internal problems though I'm sure your quite competent and working things out for yourself. A PCV leak certainly wouldn't help as that's unmetered air but I'd imagine the cam cover gasket would still just about seal with half the nuts, not a great sign though! Makes you wonder about the standard of the rest of the work as it's not hard to find a few spare M6 nuts, are the the lifters hydralic or bucket and shim? VAG started making everthing hydralic from the the early 1980's but I'm not sure what the WR engine is as I've never woked on one.

[Tractor Dave]

Yes, agree. Looks like it's been cleaned. It's not been opened mind.
All those things are on my list. I have Phil Paynes pages here and all the necessary tests coming soon

[sal_s2]

Hi Dave, I think this is a worthy project and would have considered it if I didnt already have so many myself I looked at the advert quite a few times
I have a lock for the door handle which you can retumble

In terms of how far do you go, I would say go all the way with this one. Its super rare and will be worth a few quid if done right

[Ian Simmonds]

Solid lifter and shim, hydraulic was MB and up Kit.

[Tractor Dave]

Hi Dave, I think this is a worthy project and would have considered it if I didnt already have so many myself I looked at the advert quite a few times
I have a lock for the door handle which you can retumble

In terms of how far do you go, I would say go all the way with this one. Its super rare and will be worth a few quid if done right

Thanks. I will send you a pm

[4WDrifter]

Starts ok but idle all over the place and high.
Just working my way through all the possible causes. Will do pump pressure and injector flow test etc etc

I’ll be following you with interest on this one. I know no two cars are exactly the same my idle is high as if the choke was on but it’s a bit slow to start turning over maybe 7 or 8 seconds. I read somewhere that the 3 most important things with the K-Jetronic system were fuel pressure, fuel pressure and fuel pressure.

[K Simmonds]

Solid lifter and shim, hydraulic was MB and up Kit.

Thanks Ian, I did have a suspision it could have solid lifters, well there's another thing to check for you Dave. Though I doubt that's causing those symptoms, easy to check not quite so simple to rectify, perhaps it explains the missing cam cover nuts??? Though not finding a couple of replacment M6 nuts is plain sloppy, besides they shouldn't really have lost the originals.

@4Wheeldrifter... I read somewhere that the 3 most important things with the K-Jetronic system were fuel pressure, fuel pressure and fuel pressure. Yes K-Jets are very sensitive to fuel pressure, just much as their sensitive to air leaks. The acumulator acts as a fuel pressure regulator and should supply a constant five Bar to the metering head, well I'm assuming it's five bar as all the K-jets I've worked on run at that pressure be it Audi, Merc, BMW, or VW. The fuel pump itself should push out around 7bar at 13.5 Volts.

Now I've thought about it I can't see an accumulator anywhere in the pic's, it normally lives close to pump, though as I've said I've never done any work on a WR. I can see a pump on the nearside and what I'm 99% sure is a filter on the offside, I'd expect to find it somewhere around there, though I have encountered some cars with it in the engine bay. New accumlators are mentally expensive and I've dealt with two cars (both BMW's) where the owner had cheaped out and thought they could do away with it. This will make the car run pig rich and the mixture will vary when you turn on the lights or blower etc, both times they tried to compensate for it by leaning out the adjustment on the metering head which will not work. As new accumlators are £400+ if you can find one I repaied both cars by using MK1/2 Golf GTI units as their much easier to find both new or second hand and a pretty much direct replacment.

I actually have a good spare one sat on the shelf for my B3, though that magically seems to have fixed itself whist the car was stood for two years. However I'm going to be ditching the acumulator for an adjustable FPR and making up or buying a simple bit of electronics as well to ensure a constant 13.5V at the pump. This is to attempt to make it run properly with a cuffing great T3 turbo without spending a fortune, I also have bigger injectors and a selection of metering heads and warm up regulators to play with mosty from 16V MK2's. I was going to purchase a Saab Turbo metering head and injectors but they seem to be quite costly.

Anyway that's not really relevant here just thought I'd mention it as if it's missing then it must be replaced before setting up the metering head and as I've mentioned MK1/2 Golf acumulators are good way of saving a lot of money and do the job perfectly. Phil Paynes guides are excellent, he really knew UR quattros inside out so you can't go wrong with them.