Black Ur Project

[Tractor Dave]

Before above. After below.
I've tried every chemical under the kitchen sink and nothing will budge the brown stain. Any tips?


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[Ian Simmonds]

Yeah, buy a new one… They’re not that expensive ISTR and new is less likely to fail…

[Tractor Dave]

Yeah, buy a new one… They’re not that expensive ISTR and new is less likely to fail…

Nla for years

[Tractor Dave]

Did find someone in America who made a bracket so you can use a b3 bottle. Might fab something myself.

[Nuvo]

You could try oxalic acid to remove the rust stains.
edit: Take a look at this thread for more details.

[Tractor Dave]

You could try oxalic acid to remove the rust stains.

I'll try that. I've got some

[Ian Simmonds]

Nla for years

857121403?

[Tractor Dave]

857121403?

No, mine has 811121407. Let me know if you find a secret stash

[struikie]

If it is iron, you could try something like Carpro IronX.

https://carpro.global/catalog/ironx/

JW

[K Simmonds]

We rarely have to cut a tank at work other than to open a knackered one out of curiosity or work on it if it needs welding, if you have to do any welding totally drain the tank of fuel and purge it with Co2 if you have it before conecting Argon when weldind. Normally our solution is stick about a gallon of deisel in there as well as as a good size handfull of M6 nuts and bolt, seal it up and shake the hell out of in every orentaion for a very, very long time, literarly hours, that will normally get the inside spotless. Then rinise it out with a bit cheap(ish) unleaded and that's done the job, we have a couple of bore scopes so can have a proper look inside.

If it's really bad use a a good handful of 1" nails as well as the nuts and bolts but only if there is no delicate in tank filter.

Fuel pump pressure is important and should be above six Bar, what is really important is the pressure at the metering head post filter and acumulator, that should be a very steady five bar or whatever is the spec for a WR, the fuel should also be spotless not tainted. The filter normally catches any pairticals but not always then you've big problems as the metering heads don't like any sort of contamination.

The acumlator looks the same as the MK1 Golf one I've got, it doesn't look too bad, personally I'd take it off and paint it as my spare is quite expensive.

That fuel pump looks the same as on my B3, made by an Itailian manufacturer and rated at 7 bar. Was sourced via eBay and quite pricey, the one I took off was a the same make and still fine, the problem was the bloody acumulator which as I've mentioned are mental money. I use the old one or it might be a Bosch one I can't remember for pumping out tanks at work or moving fuel about.

[Tractor Dave]

The parts have started to arrive.
Just like Christmas again.



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[K Simmonds]

Nice, I bet those plug leads wern't cheap! Is that a pre pump fiter you've got at the back right of the box?

[Tractor Dave]

No, they weren't cheap but they are very good. Both filters in the box.

[K Simmonds]

No you can't fault Magnecore, very good quaility and customer services. I ordered a set of their high perfomance 3B lead's for my old S2 directly from them, they phoned me up and advised that they wouldn't fit properly due to the larger diameter and I wouldn't be able to install the plug lead cover on the top of the motor. They were a larger diameter as opposed to the stock ones which are a tight fit anyway, he said I could buy them but not to moan if I had problems fitting them, that's pretty good customer service! I got a stock set from Pete Reeve instead which someone in Belgium is now using along with my old dissy cap.

I'm 99% sure my B3 dosen't have a pre pump filter, I will double check but if there's not one there I'll be retro fitting one, dam good idea with a metal tank!

[Tractor Dave]

The log book arrived in the post yesterday so I popped to the post office to register the vehicle as historic. Nice feeling that. Not done it before.

So today I decided to remove the coolant pipe. I got a bit carried away and lots of other parts came with it.
Everything will be refurbished.
The thermostat has been replaced recently but it's an unknown make. I have a genuine Behr one ready to fit.









The coolant pipe is actually very good.


After a quick wire wheel.


I will soak in some rust removal potion to clean the inside before painting.

And thanks to a kind member on Facebook I have two new old stock genuine engine mounts.


Going to move to the back end and start stripping things there this afternoon.
Just noticed this on the high pressure pipe at the fuel pump outlet. Shock!



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