Black Ur Project

[K Simmonds]

That fuel hose is a potential disaster averted!

In a way it a good thing thing they changed the stat, coolant and I can see a new water pump then ran it for a while as now you're going over everything again properly most of the corrosion should have been in the coolant as oppossed to the inside of the block or pipes. I can see a new radiator and heater matrix being on the cards as well as some serious flushing with a hose pipe.

On the plus side the car looks to be highly original, I like the MDF or whatever it is radiator ducting, should be easy to replicate once you find the correct material. All the hydralic hoses look okay other than a couple going to the base of the Bomb, where they reduce down to small bore, they don't look so hot but it could just been bad surface corrosion

[Tractor Dave]

The hub nuts were tight as f@@@


Nicely refurbished original brakes on the front.


I had to cut the exhaust as the bolts above the diff were solid.


Only one of the propshaft bolts rounded out and had to be cut.


Now I'm having fun with these. The captive nuts are just spinning in the cages. Deep joy.




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[4WDrifter]

Wow! No hanging around at Dave’s place.

[K Simmonds]

If you haven't already try jaming screwdirivers in the captive nut housing to stop it turnning, if that fails resort to the MIG, it only needs to be a litlle tack weld which could be done away with once you've got the bolt out plus the heat will help.

I alway use 3/4 drive stuff on hub nuts, never failed me yet when combinded with heat, you can get them faily hot with MAP gas, though we use an induction heater at work. Those things are magic, we use it all the time on corroded fixings, the heat is super localised unlike with gas which is incredibally useful.

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers Kit. I have got them moving a little with the screwdriver jammed but not out yet. I've left them to soak overnight in penetrating oil and will have another go tomorrow. A bit difficult to mig weld the nut as the cage is in the way and it very tight space wise. I will have another go tomorrow.
The diff lock is very different to my last Ur. There are two vac actuators and a cable. No of the vac pipes were connected .

[newsh]

Cheers Kit. I have got them moving a little with the screwdriver jammed but not out yet. I've left them to soak overnight in penetrating oil and will have another go tomorrow. A bit difficult to mig weld the nut as the cage is in the way and it very tight space wise. I will have another go tomorrow.
The diff lock is very different to my last Ur. There are two vac actuators and a cable. No of the vac pipes were connected .

If it's like my old left hooker the diff locks operate from levers on the floor of the cabin, or on the tunnel, hard to remember, it was the 80s!

[Tractor Dave]

After another 30 minutes faffing around with screwdrivers trying to get the captive nut to lock I gave up. The other one did come undone after soaking overnight.

Then the propshaft was off.

So I needed to remove the diff lock cable but everything was seized.
So I just removed the bracket and the lever.

It easier to drain the diff while it's up in the air. The oil must be 41 years old! Certainly looks it.


Then after disconnecting the brake pipes, handbrake cables, diff switch wires (vac pipes weren't connected) and top mounts, I positioned the strong table.
Interesting how this wire was trapped.



The mole grips are to stop the damper rod from spinning whilst undoing tue top nut. Obviously, don't do This if you intend to re use the shocks! This slim beta socket was all I could fit in the space.


Then up up and away.





Now I hear this stuff might clean the coolant bottle. I will let you know.



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[Tractor Dave]

Better get some weight in the boot. Grin nervously.


Started to strip things. Getting there slowly.


More goodies arrived. These are for the front drop links. Not doing oe bushings this time as it's a right faff. Sure these will last forever too.


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[4WDrifter]

Holy smoke!! Fantastic progress. Thanks for all the photos we all really appreciate you taking the time to take them and post them.

[K Simmonds]

I always use Powerflex Black bushings for anything I need to replace, so much less hassle to fit, appart from the ones for a B4/5 quatto rear subframe, those are a challange and besides they very rarly need changing.

That subframe and wishbone assembly looks identical to my 1989 B3, I wonder if they're the same. The diff looks a bit larger but it's hard to tell.

You want a couple of bag's of cememt or something else heavy in that boot before you do anything else under the car, I'm sure you've got something suitable knocking about, an anvil would be ideal... I've witnessed people rushing at work and car's falling off lift after over ballencing, the results are not pretty, thankfully no one was hurt, the same couldn't be said for the cars.

[Tractor Dave]

Don't know why the pics didn't upload?

Goodies


Toil



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[Tractor Dave]

Too right Kit. A friend called for a chat the other day. First of all he started touching parts I had half removed in the engine bay. I had to ask him politely not to touch. Then he proceeded rest his body On the side of the car on the ramp. I then had to ask him 'politely ' to leave the garage!

[K Simmonds]

Too right Kit. A friend called for a chat the other day. First of all he started touching parts I had half removed in the engine bay. I had to ask him politely not to touch. Then he proceeded rest his body On the side of the car on the ramp. I then had to ask him 'politely ' to leave the garage!

Some people can't take a hint, that car whilst safe enough as it is does not need any weight added to the front end, if it tipped it would be an absolute disaster as you can imagine. I really would either get something over 50kg's minimum in the boot ASAP, hell logs would do or as you've all four wheels off it would be a prettty good place to to store them they weigh about 70 KG's with tyres.

Good call on the the Superflex bushes, they're just as good as Powerflex, not too harsh unlike some of the others on the market which may as well be solid which horrid on a road car. I had a mixture of both brands on my S2 and was very happy with the result.

My B3 will be getting much the same, though I don't know what Andy gave me altogether.

My forged front wishbones have brand new genuine Audi bushing which I'm not going to remove if I fit them, which I should do really even though I could sell them for a few quid.

[Tractor Dave]

Spent the afternoon stripping the rear struts.





Notice the copper grease on the rear ball joint? Must have been replaced at some point.
The shocks are original.


And probably the bearings too.


This race needed a cut to remove.


I did have a couple of issues. One brake shield bolt sheared off as did one of the ball joint bolts. I had to drill them out.



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[Tractor Dave]

I spent the whole day in the garage today but didn't make much progress.
Getting bushes out is a time consuming process on a car 40 years old.

The wishbone bushes look to have been replaced before. They are marked Germany along with the Audi markings as a posed to west Germany that would have been on 82 original bushes. They were also in excellent condition with no cracks. The bolts were also covered in copper grease.







The subframe is very solid. No rust in the usual places thankfully.

That's all the back end stuff stripped and ready to go to the sandblasting and powder coating place.

I will crack on with the front subframe next.


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