My silver RS2 Project

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks guys. Quick update. Tried with wires connected and made no difference. I have tried testing g4 crank position sensor with led but got nothing. I dont think the voltage will be sufficient to light it up though. Hopefully will get the battery for my oscilloscope today and i can test properly.

[hashluck]

We had the same problem with a Coupe. The central-locklng pump in the boot had stopped working and my business partner disconnected it without me knowing whilst we sourced a replacement. Next time we went to start the car, nothing doing. It took a while for me to make the connection and tracing circuit diagrams! Plugged it back in and hey presto!

[Tractor Dave]

I'm not convinced its the issue. Apparently the car was running before it was stripped and these wires look like they were cut a long time ago. Tape used to insulate looks the same as the alarm stuff.

[K Simmonds]

The vacuum pump is linked to the factory alarm/immobiliser so that could well be the problem.

[Tractor Dave]

No, I'm having my dinner

[John.]

It's been half an hour, you're driving about in it yes !

[Tractor Dave]

Now. I found something interesting.
Another forum member (Trist) suggested checking the central locking vac pump. He previously had a non starting car due to it being disconnected.
So I had a look.


Two wires have been cut.
I've rejoined them. Let's see what happens.



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[Tractor Dave]

Both appear to be three. I haven't peeled back the insulation though.

[John.]

How many wires to the speed/crank sensors?

[Tractor Dave]

Back to engine matters.
My oscilloscope needs a new rechargeable battery so I decided to get creative.
I set up a little test loom with an old led light.



On turning the engine over it flashed confirming the sensor is working.
Next step is to check physical timing. I set the engine to tdc and confirmed we are good. Nothing has slipped or broken.

Onto the speed and crank sensor. Removed and they look good. They are connected to the right plugs.


I'm not sure how to test these but they aren't expensive so I've ordered a new pair.

With the sensors removed I was able to confirm that the trigger pin on the flywheel is still in place.



You can just see it in the above pic.

Now, top tip. Rotating the engine is simple if you can get to the crank bolt but with the intercooler in place it's nigh on impossible. I found that with the crank position sensor and speed sensor removed you can carefully use a large flat bladed screwdriver to push the flywheel down using the starter ring. Moves nice and slow too so easy to get the timing mark lined up.


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[Tractor Dave]

Yes, good plan. And I've read up on dealing with clock springs on the interweb so have a better understanding. I will have a dig later

[John.]

Judging by my fault codes it might already be dead

If so you've nothing to lose by stripping it to investigate ?! Maybe some prodding with an ohmmeter first to confirm.

[Tractor Dave]

Judging by my fault codes it might already be dead

[John.]

So I need to undo the rack lower joint, rotate the wheel to the correct position and then re join the rack.
Anyone confirm this?

Sounds about right, but depending on previous work carried out the clock spring could be damaged depending on whether you rotate clockwise or anti-clockwise ? I've never had my airbag wheel off so can't fully relate to your situation ....... taking the clock spring assembly off and turning it by hand clockwise 'till it starts to tighten up and then (counting the turns) anti-clockwise 'till it starts to tighten, then you can ascertain it's mid position/wheels straight ahead.

[Tractor Dave]

Not much of an update because my oscilloscope is playing up and I had to do logs today.
However, I did have a Quick Look at my steering wheel. It is upside down with wheels pointing straight ahead.


Due to the airbag clock spring you can't just remove and put it back the right way. I think what's happened is that the steering rack has been removed and then replaced when the steering wheel wasn't upright. So I need to undo the rack lower joint, rotate the wheel to the correct position and then re join the rack.
Anyone confirm this?


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