My silver RS2 Project
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I have bought a couple of different makes of rear shoes and they both are a little thick to fit the adjuster cog. I took a measurement and it's less than 1mm that needs shaving off. So I got shaving.

Perfect

A little vht black to stop it rusting.

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I didn't have any heat shield for the back. They probably rotted out years ago.
Thanks to John in sunny Scotland for sending me a template, I was able to make some out of aluminium sheet.

Cut out with a jigsaw

A little sanding

Far from good but good from far

I will paint them satin black so they don't stick out like sore thumbs.
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Brakes fitted on the other side.




Coming together now.
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The other strut went in this morning. The tie rod ball joint was spinning so I had to get some pressure underneath.



The strut to hub carrier bolts need the big boys toys to torque up.
The brake shields go on with lovely new bolts.

New caliper mount bolts and plenty of thread lock.
Got these from Design911.

And the new discs I got from Germany fitted perfectly.

Braided stainless hoses going in.


Caliper on


I got new stainless counter sunk screws to hold the discs on but they sit a little proud.

Having checked the wheels there are recessed areas so they won't contact.
Other bits coming together and one side is done.



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Time to put the wishbones in.
Nice new bolts.

Plenty of silicone grease.

I found just the right number of new ball joint nuts.

And then the strut went in.


One down one to go.
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I didn't get much done today but the hubs have been reunited with the struts.

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So I got on pressing in the bearings.
I used my wheel bearing tool.
It's brilliant.
Best money ever spent.


The SKF bearings have the markings on the side that goes in. Wider side faces out.


A light oil spray really helps. This stuff is very good.

And they went it really easily.


The hubs have been cleaned and the special bush (rs2 specific) fitted.

A lot of people forget (or don't care) that you must support the inner race when pressing the hub in. Like this.

In it goes.

All done.

Another thing that's handy to know is that the bearing has no strength until the hub is on the car with the hub bolt fitted. The bearing can separate easily if you handle it incorrectly at the above stage. Ask me how I know. Doh
And yes I know. My workbench needs a tidy!
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Yes. The Koni value is slightly lower than the oe figure which from memory is 140nm.
Edit. No 180!
See note 13 here.
Last edited by Tractor Dave; 18 February 2025, 18:43.Leave a comment:
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Nice progress as ever
Where do you find torque numbers for the strut caps? The information I have is different and now I'm a little worried. Perhaps Koni gives different torque for the cap?
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And onto the front hub carriers.
These need a clean before I can fit the bearings.



This wire brush is perfect for the abs sensor hole.

And the bearing surface is cleaned using 1000 grade wet and dry soaked in oil


All the threaded holes have also been cleaned.
Now ready for bearing press but it's dinner time.

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Ok. No action in the rear brakes until parts arrive. Onto the front.
The struts came back beautiful from the powder coating place.

I set the Koni shocks two clicks off fully soft and they went in. I put 50 ml of ep90 oil in first.


Then this little spacer bush that you need for the Koni shocks.

Plenty of copper grease on the threads. This is personal preference. Some will say it's not a good idea but I've been doing it with no issues for years.

New caps. Rare as hens teeth.

And the cap gets torqued down to 120nm using my home made tool.


My bump stops had fallen apart with age. New replacements are nla from Audi. These work well with a little internal clean.


They fit the oe dust boot perfectly.

I'm using Sachs top bushes. The are the closest item I've found to the oe Audi bushes that are nla. They have an Ina bearing.

You don't need to compress the springs much to fit.

And we are done.

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by Tractor Dave; 18 February 2025, 17:55.Leave a comment:
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i used bremboI will add those to my shopping list.
Now, these lovely 10.9 grade bolts only ordered yesterday arrived. I was missing all my rear brake bolts so had to get everything new.

A quick test fit

And we are good apart from the cam adjuster. The metal is too thick.

I see from another thread in here that 928 brake shoes might need a little grinding to get to fit.
Anyone know a set that fits without grinding? The set I have are ABS brand.
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