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It's dry. However, I'm not celebrating yet. I need to re check this after first run of the engine as the oil is cold atm.
Anyway, cracking on with a few other things.
The propshaft got a clean, re grease and fresh paint.
All the bolts got a clean and I replaced a couple that had damaged heads.
A little rtv was placed on the seal to help it stay where it's meant to be.
Thread lock on the bolts and it's back on the car. I will get a pic tomorrow.
I have a full set of Teng. For 10nm I use the smallest (5nm to 25nm).
i will do some testing tomorrow using another to see how consistent they are.
Getting torque as low as 10nm bang on is pretty tricky even with the best possible torque wrench, it's so easy to go slightly too far or only just hit 10nm.
I suspect the wrench you used is reading slightly low, even being only one or two nm out could cause a leak like that on such a low torque fastener.
Hopefully it's still dry in the morning, which isn't long now...
I've only just gotten out of the workshop after a crazy tiding spree and it's still not how I want it.
Sadly, the filtration oils get drawn off the filter into the induction system, contaminating the MAF sensor wire. I salvaged my first MAF twice with an isopropyl alcohol bath, but it died after that. The current MAF went on about 13-years ago with OE filters, it’s not had a bath or played up once.
Yep, the oil on the K&N cone fitted when I got the car killed my first 3B MAF pretty quickly, I cleaned it once to try and cure poor running which it did briefly, then the MAF died completely.
Fitted an RS2 air-box as they were affordable back in 2008 and a genuine Audi paper filter as I could still get them back then and never had a problem again and I am pretty sure the car went better.
what??? First I’ve heard of this… would make sense though as I’ve been through a few mafs now. Every days a school day I guess, think I know what my next purchase is going to be now
Sadly, the filtration oils get drawn off the filter into the induction system, contaminating the MAF sensor wire. I salvaged my first MAF twice with an isopropyl alcohol bath, but it died after that. The current MAF went on about 13-years ago with OE filters, it’s not had a bath or played up once.
What make is your small torque wrench mate, and is it digital? As I said in my WhatsApp message I always tend to pinch up M6 fasters to 12nm using a Snapon digital wrench as 10nm is basically hand tight, I'll even go as far as 15nm if it stops a leak.
The other thing to watch out for is making sure you hold the torque wrench where it's designed to be gripped, holding it anywhere else will give false readings. I can explain why, but don't feel the need to.
And for others reading this, if you're afraid of using RTV sealant etc on a gasket a light smear of grease on either the gasket or the mating surface will act as a sealant and is soluble in oil, plus it holds the gasket in place which helps prevent damage whilst fitting. And you can even reuse the gasket if your in a pinch for time or begrudge purchasing another one.
I do a lot of fasteners just using my right arm as my torque wrench, it's pretty well calibrated now after 30+ years of spannering. My left arm is still a mess though I'm going to have surgery later this year to sort it out.
Fingers crossed nipping those bolts sorts it out for you Dave.
Last edited by K Simmonds; 23 January 2025, 20:38.
Reason: More info.
what??? First I’ve heard of this… would make sense though as I’ve been through a few mafs now. Every days a school day I guess, think I know what my next purchase is going to be now
Huston we have a problem.
There was a small patch of oil under the car this morning.
I cleaned everything up and identified it coming from around here.
It appears to be the oil pump seal. It's the only seal I didn't spray with hylomar gasket sealer as I was worried it would enter the oil pump. The gasket is a paper one and brand new (Rinz). Getting this apart now will be a major headache.
I I cleaned everything up really well and re checked all the bolts (I could reach). They were all tight. So, taking a chance I went slightly over the recommended torque for each bolt. This seems to have done the trick and it's been dry all afternoon. Hopefully it will still be dry tomorrow.
I wonder if my little torque wrench needs calibration? The little bolts are only 10nm and if it's over reading they may not have been tight enough?
Indeed, K&N, Destroyer of MAF's and in the case of cone filter cause of unwanted noise. How they stay in business is a mystery to me. A company like Audi probably spent well over 100,000 Euro's designing a really good air intake and air-box for the S2/RS2 only to have their work sabotaged by a £50 rip off beloved by Chav's.
The system is empty so I'm not mixing. The G004 stuff replaced the G002 stuff a few years back. You are correct that the new stuff is now synthetic but its still suitable (and designed) for use in our cars and the seals they use.
Hi Dave, are you sure you're okay using G 004 000 M hydralic fluid? This is synthetic instead of mineral based oil, the dealer advised me not to mix the two types.
I'm sure you've probably done your research, but I thought I'd best ask just in case it was an oversight.
I'm wanted to drain any dregs out of the petrol tank.
The petrol is very yellow and smells old.
I got nearly two gallons out!
The air filter housing got a good clean and then fitted. I put a new filter in. The K&N inside had seen better days.
Then I put some cheap oil in ready for first start. This will just be the flush oil, used for only 10 minutes or so after the first start to flush out all the assembly lube etc.
And some new mineral oil for the hydraulic system.
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