My silver RS2 Project

[Tractor Dave]

So can i use the new skf bolt and the bush? The Skf bolt looks identical to the old bolts.

[rxl]

Some pictures

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[Tractor Dave]

Thanks Rik. Thats good to know.

[rxl]

these washers are expensive(audi tradition)and came only on rs2. i used febi 22462 bolts as they come with a bit smaller washer. the bolts that i got together cv joints didnt fit with oem rs2 washers.

[Tractor Dave]

Today I had a play at zinc plating.
Simple set up with vinegar distilled water and salt using zinc strips.

Charging the mix with zinc


Then plating.




It's meant to take 5 mins but was still not finished after 2 hours. I think I need to add a heater as it's so cold in the garage.

Now. These spacers. Are these RS2 specific? They seem to go on the hub bolts.



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[Tractor Dave]

I will need to check my stash.



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[Tractor Dave]

Nice, can you send me a link to the rubber boots for the balljoints please, I could do with a pair

I'm not sure if I have one yet. Years ago I bought a kit that had various sizes. I will need to check as I think I may have use all the S2 sized ones.



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[sal_s2]

Nice, can you send me a link to the rubber boots for the balljoints please, I could do with a pair

[Tractor Dave]

The ball joints are good but need a clean, paint and new boots.





Before and after a clean


Then some rust converter and masking.


And some zinc. They look nice silver. Maybe I will keep them like this?


I also cleaned and fitted the splash guards for the tie rods. I normally make new ones out of tractor tyre inner tube but these were good.



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[Tractor Dave]

The ball joints are good but need a clean, paint and new boots.


Before and after


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[Tractor Dave]

Thank you. I do my best.

Now, back to those front drive shafts.
I re built the cv's making sure all the marks I made line up and everything is super clean.

Annoyingly, the SKF inner joints don't come with new cork seals. Luckily I happened to have a couple of new spares.



The ends of the shafts are wrapped in insulation tape to help get the very tight boots on.

The joint is tapped on using a rubber mallet.


New circlip.

Then onto the outer joint.

And we are soon done.

A quick tea break


Then onto rebuilding the other.

Fitting time.
Flanges cleaned up.


The tab washers cleaned up nicely and didn't need paint.


And installed


The SKF boot kit comes with these lovely new 12.9 grade bolts. Unfortunately, they aren't very rust resistant. As soon as they were installed I sprayed everything with Bilt clear rust proof.


Fortunately I just had a new delivery of goodies from Bilt today.



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[jubjub]

A hell of a lot of work. All your projects are. You could have made a career out of restoration. You put a lot of so called pro's to shame. Top work

[Tractor Dave]

All back together again and nice and dry underneath. Phew



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[Tractor Dave]

So yesterday morning there was another small patch of oil under the car. I was busy doing other things so put off the inevitable strip down until today. When I went out to the car this morning I had a good look at the oil. Its green! So on further inspection I found this connection to be the culprit.


I wasn't tight! I remember now putting off the final tightening until the pump was in place. Doh. Obviously forgot. Anyway, stripped the front down to double check the oil pump and front crank seal. All looks good.


Now I just have to put it all back together again.


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[Tractor Dave]

Send me a pm mate and i will explain