20V CQ Tidy Up

[Error404]

That looks fantastic

Maybe they would look better on a green coupe, want to check?

Ha ha, feel free to photoshop it

Have a look at Robs post ( #7 ) on this thread

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...ight=underseal

Yup that what I used dude

[Acidburn]

I have a bigger urq farb if you want to try that on your car?

[Error404]

yeah I might give that a go actually mate, would be good to test back-to-back against my RS2 bar - also I already installed the bushes in my wishbones so it will be a straight fit once I've got some of the angled droplinks

[Acidburn]

yeah I might give that a go actually mate, would be good to test back-to-back against my RS2 bar - also I already installed the bushes in my wishbones so it will be a straight fit once I've got some of the angled droplinks

well the complete subframes are still sitting there.

[Error404]

Cool. We'll have a chat when I come down to help you with the lines etc mate

[terrybullwon]

Alex how did you get all that under seal off?

[Error404]

[bluequattro]

Alex you've got this looking amazing now, so much better than when you bought it!
You'll have to come round for a cuppa and see my collection
I've got some rs2 anti roll bars somewhere, may dig them out and put them on

[Error404]

yeah its changed a bit since then! Its a crime to have a redundant RS2 bar sitting there

[bluequattro]

I have a choice of cars to put them on....

[4WheelDrifter]

I've just been getting up to speed here, Alex. Nice work, as ever.


Thanks for giving me a preview of what the CH's will look like on my car.

[Error404]

Cheers Stu, yes they do look awesome on a Panthero coupe

[Error404]

Time for an update. It been a while, mostly because not a lot has been happening!

Built a new lower chassis brace which was in the Fab section a while back. Recap on the mod for ayone who missed it:

Cross brace bar ties into the front chassis rails and rear mounts for the front subframe:


Mounts like so:


Ground clearance not an issue at all, infact it is lower profile than ABY cat protectors


Its made made a real improvement to the front end, cornering is tighter and there is less "squidge" towards the limit, overall grip is noticeably improved as a result so cornering speeds are higher, I measured 4mph faster on my private test roundabout before starting to scrub wide.


got a bit bored of the car sitting there doing nothing while i save up and collect parts for my 20vt build, so I picked up a set of custom re-profiled Piper cams off everyone's favourite parts genie




The specs:
Inlet:
Open 38° BTDC
Close 66° ATDC
Duration 284°
Lift 11mm
Full lift 104°
Lift ATDC 2.18mm

Exhaust:
Open 59° BBDC
Close 27° ATDC
Duration 266°
Lift 10.5mm
Full lift 106°
Lift ATDC 1.85mm

So I set about stripping the inlet manifold and cam cover off to get them fitted:


Forgot how clean this engine is inside, its like new!


Got the cams fitted and timed up, reused the old cam chain which was fine. Just as I was tightening the jubilee clips on the TB trunk i noticed I'd missed the recess in front of the inlet side of the head with the valve cover gasket, so it wasn't seated properly so off it all came again to sort that out!

Only took the car out for a quick blast but first impressions are really good! no loss low down, more torque across the range and it pulls loads harder from 4k all the way to 7200, and doesn't want to stop, definitely a screamer. Suits the 7A as it needs revving like **** to get anywhere anyway
Sounds a bit more aggressive too, always welcome! Butt dyno feels something like 10-15hp up on before so good result



and so now the inevitable niggle ...... the idle which I can't seem to get right
The idle adjustment screw does seem to have any effect the increasing the idle speed. With the ISV disconnected, I can stall the engine by screwing in the idle bypass valve, but screwing it almost all the way out doesn't pick the revs up beyond about 650rpm.
With the ISV connected it idles rough at about 700rpm, kind of like when there is a vacuum leak. But I've been over it all very thoroughly, all the vacuum lines are new and nothing is split or leaking.

The TB and the idle bypass valve are spotless:



If I adjust the throttle plate stop I can get it to idle very smoothly about 900rpm as before, and the idle bypass valve has more of an effect screwing in and out. So Seems to me the standard idle bypass valve can't flow enough for the cams to idle any higher than about 650rpm? any other ideas?

What are the thoughts on me tweaking the throttle plate stop to a allow a smidge more flow at "closed" position?

[djh]

I was wondering how long before you'd get these fitted, they really transformed my old car. You need to get that on the rollers asap.
I'll have a look at the engine/inlet side see if they did any mods with it.

[Error404]

yeah sweet thanks mate!
Got a V6 maf on the way, and hoping to get a copy of that chip James had so will see if the tweaked timing on that will have any more effect, it felt nice when I tried it but not as effective as these puppies
Obviously a custom map would get the most out of it but no way i can justify the cost, to be fair I'm only messing about to keep myself intersted in the car.