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Btw, measure the resistance between those ECU pins. That should be pretty easy to do.
If you don't have a multimeter, then go buy one. Will cost you 10 quid, if that for the most basic one, and it'll pay for itself in no time.
Resistor was indeed the wrong one!
Seems like I forgot to put it in, because for some reason I assumed he had an RS2 ECU, and unless you measure it, the only way to distinguish them visually is actually count the stripes on them. Already apologized for it. It's getting sorted tomorrow.
However, this does not explain why the mixture is still *so* rich and why the car failed to boost with Ross' ECU.
Even with the wrong resistor in, it does not affect it THAT much, and it should still boost.
That is why I did not think of it initially - not boosting and rich mixture is a boost leak.
Seems we have some rich mixture from resistor and some rich mixture from something else, plus the boost problem.
The wastegate needs to be checked, and the cams should probably just be put to stock to rule out any problems.
We also finally swapped Skype contacts, so we can talk to each other directly without ping pong.
I'm confident that we will get the old girl running
Horray Andy!! Let's hope the car will be running soon now and youcan reap the rewards of your blood, sweat and tears.
Dimitri- let the boys have their jolly dance. We all get it wrong sometimes and I'm sure everyone is just happy to find out the solution to getting that car on the road in good form!!
Looking forward to a successful update Andy- with pics! Think the loser at the next Dino Day should post pics of themselves starkers next to their car.
Let's not destroy this thread or take from the efforts of many to get Andy's car back up and running (properly)!
Have to say, I feel vindicated in my opinion that this is not all down to a boost leak, and that an ECU swap was worth a go even if it just helped point to a problem rather than solve it outright
This will all come together, Dmitri knows his theory and we can all get something wrong at times. As it was once said to me after f**king something up at work trying to prove a point... "ah, the exuberance of youth". Swapping the resistor should have Andy's car running more like it was on my ECU and then it's a mission to find out why it's not boosting.
Andy - your vagcom cable will be in the post, get some logs for analysis, and then I'd say it's compression test / timing / Wastegate checks and turbo oil return check.
In the meantime, I'm sure the smackdown on this thread will continue.... I say let's move it to the Dyno and get an I5 rumble underway
Just read from page 38 to current not realising how much shannanigans I've missed out on. For starters I cant believe the constant running around in circles there is going on.
First of schoolboy error on the ECU but hey **** happens we're only human. Putting that aside lets highlight this as a potential issue
Spray pattern issues would cause lean, not rich mixture...
Bad injector spray pattern will cause poor atomization leading to poor burning of the fuel which in turn causes a rich condition. The same applies if you have poor spark through too cold a plug on startup you will see the engine run particularly rich especially in the colder winter months
Couple of simple checks, pull the plugs after the car has been for a short drive and been stood for an hr or two. Smell the plugs see if they smell of fuel. Shine a torch down into the bore and see if the pistons look wet. If the plugs smell check their heatrange and the gap. If pistons wet send injectors for flow testing.
Now boost test do as PRJ said disconnect the pipe going to the wastegate and block it off. Do a quick full throttle pass short shifting at 4500-5000rpm and see if it boosts closer to 2 bar or more. If it does check that the n75 valve is plumbed correct way round, alternativelly map sensor in ecu may not be getting correct signal. If it doesn't you have a faulty turbo.
I think most of you are missing the fact, that even with the fixed resistor the car will still run rich.
The resistor does not affect the mixture as much as you'd like to think.
So no, this does not mean that much is solved at all.
Funny, how I was the one who suggested checking it in the first place though.
So, for the ones who did not get it the car is still running rich, it is also not boosting.
It was running 12.5 AFR on low boost on Ross' ECU, when he should have seen 13.5+.
Also, had I got a single Group 000 log at start, I would have instantly diagnosed the resistor. Alas, I did not.
Bad injector spray pattern will cause poor atomization leading to poor burning of the fuel which in turn causes a rich condition. The same applies if you have poor spark through too cold a plug on startup you will see the engine run particularly rich especially in the colder winter months
Incorrect.
On a WBO2 gauge it will cause a lean condition because a WBO2 sensor measures oxygen in the exhaust, not unburned fuel in the exhaust.
If not all fuel is burned, or burned badly the WBO2 sensor will show *lean*, not rich. That is why a misfire is lean as well, all the oxygen gets dumped together with the fuel out of the cylinder.
Couple of simple checks, pull the plugs after the car has been for a short drive and been stood for an hr or two. Smell the plugs see if they smell of fuel. Shine a torch down into the bore and see if the pistons look wet. If the plugs smell check their heatrange and the gap. If pistons wet send injectors for flow testing.
I had a batch of 15 injectors. I picked 5 random ones out of that batch and sent them to Andy.
The rest I fitted to different cars. Five went to Avantus' car. Five went to a car in the Ukraine, and before that they were on a car in Estonia.
All three of those cars functioned perfectly on those injectors. So what exactly are you suggesting?
If it doesn't you have a faulty turbo.
Or a stuck dump valve, or a partially stuck wastegate.
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