My S2 coupe

[Error404]

........better safe than sorry

[TimE-J]

indeed, I don't want to take any risks at all!

[TimE-J]

You'll have to excuse the loud exhaust but I've only got the down pipe fitted and the waste gate flexi isn't connected.

With ADI rapidly approaching I had to make sure that it at least started!

To say I'm happy it started first turn of the key is an understatement. I know that working in the motor trade I shouldn't have been so worried but when it's your own car and with all the money and time I've put into it, it is a nerve racking thing for me anyway.

I'm just waiting on a few more bits for the exhaust to finish it off and for my bits for the rear brake upgrade then it will be time to get it back on the road and run in.

I'll get some more up to date pictures hopefully tonight.

[andy10v]

Congratulations, you should be feeling pretty chuffed!

[TimE-J]

Thanks I am chuffed, fingers and toes crossed it works ok once I've got the exhaust finished and run it for awhile.

A few more up to date photos.

Brakes on.

[quattrostyle]

looking good Tim!

[Mcstiff]

What size is the oil cooler? I'd love to go through mine like this and clean it up!

[TimE-J]

The oil cooler is 16 row. I thought that is was better than the normal 13 row upgrade but not to big to cause any fitment issues.

[TimE-J]

I finally finished the exhaust system tonight so thought it would be a great moment to run the engine to full temp for the first time.
All in all the engine ran well. No unusual noises and no signs of any leaks or running issues.

Some issues I have though are:

-Once up to full coolant temperature with fan kicking on and off and oil temp around 80 degrees the oil pressure was around 1.6 bar which I think is a tad low although the pressure rises as soon as the throttle is touched and at around 1500 rpm the pressure is around 3.5 bar so with a fast idle the pressure is good just not so on hot idle. Is this because of the mineral oil I am using to run the engine in with? (10w40 mineral). I also noticed that when I drained the oil it was like water i.e really thin.

-Another issue is when I tried to restart the car once it was up to temperature, the first time it ran fine again but the second time the revs on idle were slightly hunting. I'll clear all fault codes and pull some codes to see what this could be. Possible air leak?

-While the oil was draining I thought I would just whip the spark plugs out again to have a look in the cylinders. All 5 plugs are nice and clean but on cylinder 3 I noticed a very small amount of oil on top of the piston. Is this normal with a rebuilt engine or do I have problems with the new valve guides/stem seals?

I'm just waiting for some bits for the rear brakes and once those turn up the car should be driving and ready to go for test.

[Greg_S]

I wouldnt be too worried about the oil pressure. Will be partly dependant on the grade of oil you are using.

On second one an air leak is likely, or could be a lazy idle stabliser valve (ISV)

[TimE-J]

Cheers for that Greg, I'm going to use a good quality mineral 10w40 for the rest of the run in and see how it goes.

I forgot to mention that at the time the engine had been sat and noticed the oil in the cylinder, cyl 3 was a BDC. I was just wondering if this could be down to how thin the oil was and the fact that the rings have not bedded in?

Any thoughts on millers 10w40 mineral?

[Greg_S]

I'll check what mine is running next time im out as I have 10w40 in mine while running in too. Not sure of reason on cylinder 3 im afraid.

[terrybullwon]

Good work, hook up a mechanical pressure gauge so you can be sure your sender is spot on.

[TimE-J]

Thanks James, I'll grab the pressure kit from work on Monday and see what its like. The sender I've got is new so I doubt its wrong although stranger things have happened or there's a dirty contact somewhere.

[TimE-J]

This was the gauge on hot idle.