UrS4 2.2T Avant project

[Thuppu]

What ever the case was, the block is fubar(can be bored to 83mm) and one piston. Propably can save the rod by changing the bushing, and one piston should be possible to order. Luckily the balanced crank is fine. But these parts arn't first priority atm. Have a 7A block waiting for these parts though.

[Acki]

It's a JE piston? They have often trouble when you are not using the HD pins.

Pre ignition (SPI) you can have with and without knock event.
This event can cause a very high pressure which can destroy nearly everything.
You have different types.

Glow ignition is another unconventional combustion mode.
Too advanced ignition angle with high octane fuel can cause this. ;-)

[prj]

That engine never saw any significantly advanced ignition angle. There was no point, because engine was eating so much oil it was useless to try to tune it.
Angle was for normal 98E gasoline. 8-9 degrees in the middle and 15 on top.
On E85 you can run double that.

So I am still curious what destroyed piston pin... I don't think there was so much oil in cylinder as to cause knock or pre-ignition on E85 with 8-9 deg ignition advance. The fact that it is Cyl 2, rather than the hottest cylinders also points to a structural issue.

Just never saw such damage at lowish power levels on forged parts. Which is why I am curious. I know it is not important anymore of course.

[Acki]

SPI drive is also oil in the combustion chamber. But I only know this pictures from this side - don't know the other components.

The problem knock, SPI and glow ignition are different compared to the ignition angle.
Knock when too much advance.
SPI before ignition because too much energy in the chamber.
Glow ignition before ignition because of glowing parts.

[prj]

SPI drive is also oil in the combustion chamber. But I only know this pictures from this side - don't know the other components.

The problem knock, SPI and glow ignition are different compared to the ignition angle.
Knock when too much advance.
SPI before ignition because too much energy in the chamber.
Glow ignition before ignition because of glowing parts.

Just for the record.
There are two types of abnormal combustion.

Pre-ignition and Detonation. The former occurs when the mixture spontaneously ignites by itself, usually from parts of the cylinder being too hot during the compression event.
The latter is an uncontrolled propagation of the flame front after the spark event - pockets of the mixture igniting spontaneously from being heated by the flame front.

Both cases are self-ignition, the only differentiation is whether it occurs before or after the spark event.

You can pretty much rule out both of these in this scenario though... wrong cylinder.

P.S.
Glow ignition in a gasoline engine is just continuous pre-ignition. It's the same exact thing.

[macspring]

Thanks for sharing, was wondering what happening to this engine. It is 'mad' that your ghetto / thrown together engine is still holding together.

Having said that lucky for you.

If it was me, I'd change the rod also just to be sure ? No empirical justification, just 'my' own peace of mind.

Best wishes.



Hi Dimitri, I know you're reading this thread given your eariler posts this evening, I hope to be able to be in position in the New Year to be able to send you an ECU to make it RS2 + Just waiting on a hybrid RS2 turbo from the USA.

Just thought I'd mention it to be able to get in the queue and that you'll be in a position to respond to me as I know you're very busy.

Sorry for the thread hijack Tomas.

Back on topic.

[Acki]

No. Glow ignition is slower.. But some cycles later you have a SPI because of the heat in the chamber. :-)
It's easier when I would be allowed to show you some pV or pAlpha diagrams with cylinder pressure. :-(
It's a little bit tricky in this area. Between combustion and detonation etc I didn't differ in my previous post to keep it simple.

[Thuppu]

Hihi, found this. Who sees someting that don't belong there?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf6AXnShA5Q

[Dima ABY]

You are the only one with AUDI there.

[nenjas2]

hello

i have an urs6 and i have problem with coil. can you send me diagram of harnes for change coils to 1.8t

[quattro-nick]

here is one i've used

[UrS4boy]

1.8T coilpack conversion info

i have an urs6 and i have problem with coil. can you send me diagram of harness for change coils to 1.8t

here is one i've used

Excellent diagram. Wonder where that came from?

Here are the original 2005 DIY instructions (with some updates):
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/183485.phtml

Here is a better version of the diagram:

[macspring]

i have an urs6 and i have problem with coil. can you send me diagram of harnes for change coils to 1.8t

Conscious of thread hijack so this will be short, for me, just buy a 'coil' loom from Norbitron on here and five of the new style coils from you local auto factors and you should be pretty much done. Plug and play.

Back on topic.

[maiks]

Top quality.

Conscious of thread hijack so this will be short, for me, just buy a 'coil' loom from Norbitron on here and five of the new style coils from you local auto factors and you should be pretty much done. Plug and play.

Back on topic.

[Thuppu]

Nothing special have happend to the car. Have only been collecting parts for the stroker block and I may put together a spare engine with stock pistons and I-beam rods. Stroker gets FCP 155x22 riffledrilled X-beams and Ross Racing forged pistons. Also bought a fully ported 7A head and Schrick cams for it. Turbo is an oldschool KKK K31 7175, 700x300x100mm intercooler, AP-racing twin disc clutch etc...