Audi S1.5 [OEM+] - (10-valve turbo B3 Coupé)

[LeafBox]

Sorry to hear about your troubles, but glad to see it's not put you off.
One of my favourite forum cars.
Regarding the hole in the dash, why not just put another LED in?
Keep up the good work.

Yeah I thought about it, but a LED for what?
Locked doors maybe? Or that my killswitches are active? Iunno...

By the way what are you using to take the photos?

I'm using a Canon 500D with the standard lens for the most part.
I then push it through Lightroom to touch it up and compensate for the terrible lighting in my shop.

[LeafBox]

I have a bit of a problem

It started with not having any/very low illumination on the cluster + extra gauges.
I then started the car, and the illumination fixed itself, but now the warning light for the alternator, coolant, and brake system always flashing?

The alternator doesn't work, but is not reciving the signal from the cluster.
The coolant is fine, and no change if I unplug the sender.
I don't even know why I get a brake warning. There's not a single sender in the whole brake system. (Vacum booster, no ABS, no pad-wear-warning)

I've tried wiggling the connectors and everything I can get my hands on to see if there's a loose wire or something, but so far nothing. Anyone have a tip as to where I start looking?

[HPsauce]

Brake warning, is there not a level sensor on the fluid header tank?

[LeafBox]

Brake warning, is there not a level sensor on the fluid header tank?

I am, by far, the dumbest idiot around
Still though, $h1t's fûcked up

[LeafBox]

I have now tried refitting all 'ground-spots' I know of, swapped cluster again, checked the connectors on the back and been searching through wiring diagrams to try to find something. And either I'm to stupid to read one or they have nothing particular in common.

But I have realized some things.
1. The cluster starts blinking/warning when I switch on the illumination, without ignition??
2. All affected parts get a pulsing 3v instead of 12. i.e if I measure the connector for coolant/brake/alternator the multimeter jumps from 0-3v.

My next step is to find the ground right out of the cluster and wire an extra in there just to see what happens, but I haven't touch anything since last season ;_;

Wiring diagram if any electricians wanna try to find something.
http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Aud...RAMS/fig07.pdf

[LeafBox]

[b]It's not easy.../b]

You know when you spend way too much time on a problem, and then it turns out the solutions is the simplest thing?
Well f' me...

As mentioned, the theifs just yanked the old cluster out, thus breaking the connectors on the board. Hence the reason for the swap.
Well, the car was found at the side of the road with a dead battery. And I just always assumed it was because without cluster = no alternator light = no alternator. So I expected it to just work again with the new cluster.

Well, there's a way more common reason for a alternator not charging...
Like for exampel, WHEN THERE'S NO BELT ON THE DAMN THING! ;_;


Best part is that I discovered it by accident... I was getting sick of the cluster, so I thought I'd start with something else instead, my next step, the subframe. So I jack the car up and slide underneath and start tinkering when I see some kind of black powder everywhere.
At first I assume it's paint from the pulleys that has been chewed off, and think nothing of it until way later when I realized that I could actually see the inside of the alternator pulley... A quick trip to the local autostore and boom, cluster works fine again.
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I did however make a special tool so I could reach the top bolt on the tensioner.
Because it's somehow even more cramped now than stock...


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But even though the cluster is now working, it's not all good with the interior. The switches for seatwarmers/foglights/etc still lights up on the ignition. Tips?

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But except for that the interior is more or less done again. I put a new LED in the little hole by the steering wheel that lights up when anyone of my switches are flipped.
So I know why the car doesn't start when I inevitably forget...



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And as mentioned I also pulled the subframe out and apart. Basically prepping it for sandblast and paint during the week.
Some of the bushings really show of the cars age.










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And now we have proof that some people maybe should'nt work on their own cars...
Some genius was obviously swapping the bushings on one of the controlarms. And managed to put the new bushings IN the old ones?

How did they even manage this? I'm actually impressed that the arm didn't crack.
Think I'll still pull one from the parts car though...

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And while I'm typing this out and looking at pictures...
Is one of the arms really mounted the wrong way around?


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During the coming week I'll go pull some parts if the other car, sandblast, paint, and hopefully install the subframe again and hopefully finish up the interior. I just need to figure out the light-problem and find the little cover above the steering wheel.

'til next time!

[quattro-nick]

no,thats not normal,the arms need to be on the same place

[LeafBox]

no,thats not normal,the arms need to be on the same place

So not only did he pull of a double bushing, he then installed the arm upside down?
What a pro...

I can't believe I've never noticed it before!
I can't believe the inspection guys never noticed it!
I CAN'T BELIEVE THE DAMN ALIGNMENT GUY DID'NT NOTICED IT @_@

[Typ89]

Nice build!
The switch-lights are wired straight to ignition, so they always light up with the engine on. Maybe I'll change that on my car someday.

[LeafBox]

Nice build!
The switch-lights are wired straight to ignition, so they always light up with the engine on. Maybe I'll change that on my car someday.

Is that so?
Can someone confirm this. I don't remember it ever being that way?

[LeafBox]

Falling behind...

No update last week. I didn't get the chance to finish what I wanted, and then I had to wait for parts.
But now I'm done, and I have some time to spare before Christmas really kicks off.

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After a quick blasting



And some paint



And ofc the bushings, and this is where I ran into problems. The bigger bushings in the subframe just would NOT go in.
It ended up with me ripping the 'mushroom' of and had to order new ones. They where from another brand and a bit easier to work with, so in the end I managed.





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Also cleaned up the battery bracket I very hastily did last season



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Then the camera died, but the only thing I did was to lower the car down on some pallets and tightened up everything.
Was super cramped, so not much to show anyway.

And today we stand like thus
On to rip apart the rear I guess


Merry Christmas ya dinguses

[LeafBox]

New Year, New Problems...

Sup guys, I hope everything is good.

Even though holidays are upon us, I like to find time for garage work.
And what amazing gifts I got for it... :/

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Since the front suspension is now done, no point in not doing the rear...
But that was ofc harder than it needs to be.


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First and foremost there was quiet a bit of rust hiding out behind the inner fender.
I've never noticed it since I've never done any real work at the back, and from inside the boot there's a bunch of stuff in the way, so you couldn't see it.




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The rear axel was in pretty rough shape too.
25 years of salt-covered roads sure left its mark.







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The brake shields was beyond saving, and the bolts to remove and replace them is NOT coming of.
I tried that on the donor car, and I snapped every single on, so I'm not even going to try, but I do have another idea...





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As you can see, everything got a quicke with the sandblaster.


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New bushings, bearings, and now shocks are all coming.



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New shocks is in transport, I also order a pair for the front. I might as well, because I forgot to even check them last time I had the struts off.
I already have bushings, but I need paint and stuff. I'm also gonna take this opportunity to get rid of all the surface rust and alike on the floor above and around the rear while everything is gone.

I'd really like some input on my brake shield idea. I'm afraid they'll be too floppy and start flapping in the wind.
Since I don't have the ability to shape them as OEM for extra stiffness. How can I make it sturdier? Some small braces on the back maybe?

[quattrostyle]

Wow the rear end was in real bad shape, weird the car itsself rotted as well

[LeafBox]

What happened?

It feels like I've been busting my balls all week, but looking back at the pictures it looks like I just lulled about

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The week started with getting the shields done, and it turned out pretty good.
I feared they'd be to floppy, but they where surprisingly sturdy from the get-go. And after I bent the edge and tacked it on it was rock solid...






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And then I fixed the rust, just the holes for the bumper left.





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A coat of paint on everything, even a couple extra bits.






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Also my shocks showed up, Monroe's at the back and Bilsten's in the front.




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Next week I'm gonna polish up the floor before I hang the rear back. That's the plan anyhow.
C'ya next weekend!

[RichLV]

The switches on the center console light up with the ignition. It's the same on all old Audi's.