Audi S1.5 [OEM+] - (10-valve turbo B3 Coupé)

[LeafBox]

Yeah, people usually say it's in the ballpark of ~200-220hp, which should be plenty to feed just the front wheels.

[LeafBox]

Not much happened this weekend, mostly because my wife decided that she wanted a Coupé too. So I had to spend quiet some time behind the wheel.
And sadly, next weekend I'm going to a wedding, so I'm not expecting to get anything done then either...

Anyway, thought i share a pic of that instead...
It's pretty much an exact replica of my car, but red and has AC.

It's a bit rough around the edges, but for 4.500 SEK (€480/£335/$520), a pretty solid base.
And she wanted something to tinker with so she could learn a little. So you guys might see more of it in the future.

[quattrostyle]

Cool wife Nice car as well, does the AC still work?

[LeafBox]

No idea actually, I just took it for a small test drive then we trailered it home.
Probably not though

[LeafBox]

I'm not dead!

It's true! One might think I am, but as it turns out I'm still alive, sorta.
So long story short. After the testdrive I took a week off to just recharge and plan my next step, but then life just got in the way.
There were birthdays, work, weddings, helping friends and then I threw my back out. I bet everyone has experienced it. But hey, now we're back for a while.

Just a few bits and pieces left to complete the "concept" of the project. So I finally started with the 5-lug conversion.







Up until this point I haven't bothered with restoring anything because I always knew I'd pull it apart again later anyway.
But since I need to pay someone to push the bearings/hubs out/in, I thought I might as well buy new bearings and fix up the housing so I don't have to do it again later.

I'm really happy with the result, and i've had good experiences with this paint before. It's really thick and gooey and has a nice effect to it, and can be painted directly on to rust if you're lazy
I'm probably going to get these assembled during the week, and hopefully mounted next weekend. But I need to finish up the wheels first.

Two of them is almost done, but the other 2 looks like ****. But on the other hand, these are not the wheels I'm going to be driving on, it's just the turbo ones so the car has something to stand on.

[LeafBox]

Opinions

Since it's time to install the new brakes soon, I though I'd check that they actually move. Which they ofc didn't...
The smaller piston on one side would NOT budge, and long story short I definitely need atleast one rebuild kit. And I thought that while I was at it I might as well fix both sides properly.

Hence my current "issue". I'm having a difference of opinion with myself regarding the calipers new look. The options I have is;

"Classic" Red" - As the name suggests, a real classic that works on most builds, but at the same time a bit over-done.
"Stealth Black" - Black, the color Audi would've used. And by far the smartest decision in regards to brakedust. But a bit boring maybe?
"Complementing White" - A nightmare to keep clean, but more unique than red and goes very well with the white paintjob. And I did actually paint them white the last time.

So, opinions?

[LeafBox]

Turns out I'm an idiot!
It's certainly a surprise to me, but it didn't seem to shock anyone else...

Anyway, so I pressed all the shiny pieces together, and guess what, they don't play nice with eachother.
The turbo hubs are way shorter than the NG ones. The reason I didn't catch it was because the part you actually push in to the bearing is the same, but the turbo has a more "abrupt" ending so to speak, while the stock builds out a little more.

This problem ofc chain-reacted into the brakes not fitting and the wheelbolts touching the housing. So I'm currently searching for S2 hubs, which does use the same bearing and has the same "slanted" style as the stock ones.

[_ShurikeN]

The turbo hubs are way shorter than the NG ones.

That's an issue of course, but manageable. The core problem will be clear when you compare the teeth pattern of both types of hubs.

So I'm currently searching for S2 hubs, which does use the same bearing and has the same "slanted" style as the stock ones.

None of S2 OEM hubs (front or rear) wil meet your requirement without additional work or expenses.


Besides, S2 hubs are way too overpriced despite they have far wiser analogs.


Tons of info on the forum, you need to read more attentively.

[LeafBox]

That's an issue of course, but manageable. The core problem will be clear when you compare the teeth pattern of both types of hubs.



None of S2 OEM hubs (front or rear) wil meet your requirement without additional work or expenses.


Besides, S2 hubs are way too overpriced despite they have far wiser analogs.


Tons of info on the forum, you need to read more attentively.

How can that be managable? There is no way to get hub further out, and I can't cut the housing down because the brake disk is still hitting the shield. And I'd still have a terrible ET offset.
The teeth pattern are the same on both the turbo and S2, 38?

I've done plenty of research, and that's why I'm not counting on any of it
Soo many different versions with soo many different parts, and all of them require special work. So I'm not planning on getting away without fiddeling, but seeing as the S2 hubs are waaay more similar to stock than the turbo ones, I atleast have a shot making those work...

But please, if anyone can make the turbo-ones usable, or have a better idea than S2-hubs, feel free to speak up

[_ShurikeN]

How can that be managable? There is no way to get hub further out, and I can't cut the housing down because the brake disk is still hitting the shield. And I'd still have a terrible ET offset.

This way:




I don't say it is cheap/worthy/nice etc. But it is possible.

The teeth pattern are the same on both the turbo and S2, 38?

No.

...the S2 hubs are waaay more similar to stock than the turbo ones

Yes. You can put them. You will need big hub-carrier with 82mm bearing and some sort of other outer CV-Joints. You will have to appreciate prices and good availability of golden S2 hubs also.

But please, if anyone can make the turbo-ones usable

You will never put them on your car unless you fabricate custom driveshafts or unless 200turbo driveshafts fit your car (which i doubt so much).

... or have a better idea than S2-hubs, feel free to speak up

you need a pair of used hubs 8D0501653B and a pair of washers with 12mm inner diameter and 2mm thick.
That could be a straight and affordable option.

[LeafBox]

This way:




I don't say it is cheap/worthy/nice etc. But it is possible.

Yeah, that would kinda solve it, but I might have some trouble pulling it of.

No.

I might be thinking of it backwards, but I'm 100% sure that the number of outer splines on the turbo cv-joints are 38. And all information I've found says that it's the same on the S2, ergo same number of splines in the hubs.

Yes. You can put them. You will need big hub-carrier with 82mm bearing and some sort of other outer CV-Joints. You will have to appreciate prices and good availability of golden S2 hubs also.

Thinking back. I might not have mentioned it, but the housing and stuff i've been showing you is not the stock 75mm, but from a 7A (82mm). Would never have worked with the turbo hubs otherwise.

You will never put them on your car unless you fabricate custom driveshafts or unless 200turbo driveshafts fit your car (which i doubt so much).

I also have a pair of early A6 outer joints which let me hook up the stock driveshafts to the turbo (ergo S2) hubs, I actually bought all this stuff ages ago before starting the project.

you need a pair of used hubs 8D0501653B and a pair of washers with 12mm inner diameter and 2mm thick.
That could be a straight and affordable option.

B5q rear hubs? I'll look into this closer, never seen anyone using B5 part in the front before.

[LeafBox]

Still not dead

Updates are slow because I don't really have anything to do, anywho.
While I search for the right front hubs I took care of the rear and prepared the brakes.

Caliper pistons stuck? An old brakehose and some compressed air and they'll shoot right out!


Not as bad as I was expecting.


A quickie with the sandblaster and a paintbrush.


Glad I bought repair-kits, as good as new!


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The rear didn't give me much trouble. The hubs are exact replicas (apart from the bolt holes ofc), and is secured by an old fashioned bearing, so it was like 10min to switch them out.
I had to work the calipers a bit, but my biggest problem was with the discs...

When I first tried to fit them I had the same problem as in the front. Which was weird, because I'm 100% sure I measured it SEVERAL times.
So I started to compare all the **** i had laying around.

Old Disc - New Disc(1). As you can see, the new disc is about 5mm deeper than the old.


New Disc2) - Old Disc. While new disc number 2 is a couple mm LOWER? (Well, the offset is the same, but the new disc is just worn down more.)


But that's still 5mm between the two new discs? But then I remembered something from an old post. This spacer I found behind one of the disc...


So something is up here. Why is the discs different? Considering the VAG-spacer, are they supposed to be? If not, which one is "correct" and where does the other one come from and how did they get the spacer? I have no idea...

Anyway, I'll let it be for the moment, but I'll buy new discs in time for registration.
Everything found its way together at last, and another round with the blaster and some paint on the turbo wheels made the rear ready for a testdrive.

[LeafBox]

STILL still not dead!
One might think so, but the silence lies!

As you know I had some hub-trouble, and even though there was a few possible solutions none of them felt "right".
But I managed to find a pair of S2-hubs at last. Kinda hefty price, but it's not like they wear out so...

And I guess the shipping from another country didn't help. Anyway, they arrived earlier this week, and are ofc a much better fit!

S2 vs. Stock(7A)
As you can see, pretty much an exact replica.


Fixed up a bit.


Now when I had hubs that I knew was the same length as stock, I used the old housings I had laying about to figure out how much I need to take of/add to the caliper-bracket.
I quickly realized that now when the hubs are the correct length, the depth of the MC-discs are uncomfortably "shallow", and I would have to take of pretty much half the material on the mounting surface.

And that felt pretty stupid, so it was time to bust out the old wallet again and get me a pair of S2-discs. I even bought brand new ones so that I could make sure all my measurements was going to be correct.
I haven't looked in to this much further, but at first glance I think I need to space the bracket 1-2mm. Which is much easier than to take of 10

NG vs. MC

NG vs. S2


I replaced the CV-joints as well. So we can actually move later, but I didn't take any pics. Not anything worth seeing and I'm going to fix the whole shaft up later.
This brings us pretty close to a new test-run! Probably next weekend? Depending on the weather.

[LeafBox]

So much for my brand new bearings

[John.]

Like the caliper re-furb
Personally I'd be wary of painting the hub to wheel mounting surface......definitely keep a check on wheel bolt torque.
A great project indeed.