Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Audi S1.5 [OEM+] - (10-valve turbo B3 Coupé)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • i have two PDFs which may help you.. unfortunately it's in german..

    on the "fuelpump" pdf you can see the brown wires with different colours.. they should power the fuelpump relay..


    bl= blue
    br= brown
    ge=yellow
    gn=green
    gr=gray
    li=purple
    ro=red
    sw=black
    ws=white

    at the "stromlaufplan" pdf you can see the other cables.. i think the red/black wire belongs to the HALL sensor..
    i would go to my car and look which connector is which, but unfortunately it's 300km away..

    hope it will help..
    Attached Files
    1990 Audi 100 2.2 Turbo Quattro with VEMS, K24 2480, ported and milled 10v head

    Comment


    • Hmm, that helped a little. But still no go, I redid my wiring as it was from the beginning but it still wont fire.
      It turns over fine, but I dont seem to have either spark or fuel ????

      Another thing, the fuelpump isn't supposed to start untill it senses the engine turning over, right? Well now the pump starts by its own a couple seconds after you turn on the ignition

      Edit:
      I dont seem to have 12v to the hallsensor on ignition (between pin 1 & 3)
      Edit:
      When I put 12v to the idlevalve (thick black wire) the ECU thinks the engine is running and starts the fuelpump?
      Last edited by LeafBox; 20 June 2015, 15:04.

      Comment


      • fuelpump only starts, when ecu sees rpm signal, TDC pin and HALL signal.. or after first spark at cyl 1.. you can start the engine without idle valve..

        be careful.. the connectors of idle valve, knock sensors, rpm signal and TDC pin are all the same.. be sure you don't interchange them..
        1990 Audi 100 2.2 Turbo Quattro with VEMS, K24 2480, ported and milled 10v head

        Comment


        • Well if that's true, the problem is still the same, since the fuelpump is starting before the engine is even turning over...
          And yes, the connectors are the same, but the color is different, so the only 2 you can interchange is a knocksensor and the cranksensor (both white, and been there)

          Comment


          • I got a feed to the hall now, but it still wont fire and the fuelpump situation is still present?

            Comment


            • Check the pin wiring of the hall sensor, it's nor always the same between type85 and audi 100/200 10vt looms BTDT on my 10vt Ur

              S2 Coupe 3B Project


              Ur quattro restoration

              S2 Avant

              Boost is the new rock and roll!
              sigpic

              Comment


              • Found the problem, and god damn I'm retarded.
                I thought I was being clever by using an open pin on the fusebox for the 12v supply.

                Well as it turns out, it only gives 12v when the ignition is on, and as soon as the starter hits, it drops to 0.
                So everything was primed and ready, the starter hit and shut everything off, and when the key went back everything was back to normal, that's why I didn't catch it...

                Crisis averted...

                Comment



                • S2 Coupe 3B Project


                  Ur quattro restoration

                  S2 Avant

                  Boost is the new rock and roll!
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • Quickie

                    So, everything seems to be in working order with the new flywheel.
                    I was kinda hoping on mounting some driveshafts and the shifter this weekend so I could try rolling it a little under its own power, but hey, gotta have something to do next weekend

                    Instead however I got all the gauges to work! Spent some time fiddeling with the oil-pressure until I realized that I hadn't plugged in the 2-pin connector behind the center console
                    Anyway, work seems to be sparse this week, so with some extra tinkering time I'm hoping to take a little stroll next weekend. Biggest problem is the IC, I can't really leave it hanging so loose next to so many spinning parts...

                    I want to use a RS2 intercooler, but I'm fairly certain that the top outlet is going to crash right into the front of the turbo... So right now I'm thinking about buying a small intercooler, think 1.8t/B5 S4 and try to stuff it like right under the turbo next to the oilrad and mount it to the crashbar, thoughts? (Compared to my old plan to fit a bigger IC in front of the radiator, but I'm afraid of added boost-lag with such long pipes?)



                    Comment


                    • It sounds a lot like a tug boat at the moment.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Nuvo View Post
                        It sounds a lot like a tug boat at the moment.
                        Haha, yeah.
                        It's missing a stud on the header, a broken gasket on the downpipe and no gasket at all on the WG so it's making quiet the ruckus at the moment

                        Comment


                        • A new fun question for the experts!
                          Does it matter where you connect the injectors on the fuel head?

                          Exampel, in this pic, the "edge" of the hard line to the braided all line up.


                          I just followed ETKA and mine looks like a complete mess
                          I thought I had to have them connected in a specific order so the right injector would open at the right time?

                          Somebody understand what I'm talking about?

                          Comment


                          • no, doesnt matter.. as this is a continuous fuel injection system.. so all the injectors are open all at the time..
                            1990 Audi 100 2.2 Turbo Quattro with VEMS, K24 2480, ported and milled 10v head

                            Comment


                            • Wait, what?
                              I had to watch a K-jet technical video from the 80's to make sure I understood it correctly.
                              And I just now realized how stupid the system is. So basicly everytime the injectors open you're spending 80% of your fuel on cleaning the back of your intake valves...?

                              Comment


                              • well.. it was a big step forward from carburettor to k-jetronic.. my mc2 has about 220-240hp and never had a failure.. it's not so stupid.. it works fine
                                1990 Audi 100 2.2 Turbo Quattro with VEMS, K24 2480, ported and milled 10v head

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X