Large IC install/pluming

[Corey]

Don't worry Jay, one has your name written all over it (as does one for you Mr Wallis)

[Jay]

Wow

Don't worry Jay, one has your name written all over it (as does one for you Mr Wallis)

YIPPY! Cheers unci Corey you da man

Jay

[s2_bo]

WHAT??? I have to drill my own holes? looks good Bo, get them shipped

LOL. I haven't drilled them yet because i want to make sure that the extra bracket lines up perfectly.

Your ones will be delivered Drilled'n'pollished. Don't you worry about that!

[Jamo]

Looks great Bo! Can I ask what about the Aux Rad mounting?

[s2_bo]

Mounting on my one is only on the "T".
It would be easy to add a couple of mounts to it though.

I haven't done this as most people don't have the AUX Rad anymore

Is that something people would want?
If it is ill add them to the next batch, or at least make them optional.

Bo

[adamw]

just a small question... would the ic be more efficient if it was longer rather then taller? as u would get more air passing more of the ic? it made me think because half the ic is getin blocked by the bumper/ number plate.

[Corey]

Despite the intercooler having a hidden portion it is still effective, don't think of the intercooler as a radiator (which needs all its surface area in air flow) but think of it as a heat sink.

It seems straightforward enough. An intercooler acts as an air/air radiator for the intake air, cooling it after the compression of the turbo has caused it to get hot. The compressed air passes through the intercooler, losing its heat to the alloy fins and tubes that form the intercooler core. This heat is immediately dissipated to the outside air that's being forced through it by the forward movement of the car.

The trouble with this analysis is that - for a road car - it is not entirely correct.
The reason for this build-up is that what follows is likely to be seen as incorrect by many people. For example, someone who measures intake air temps while running a turbo intercooled car for a power pull on a dyno, or who drives it around the block, or who sits back and simply theorises, is almost certain to think that what follows is wrong. But, it isn't.

In road cars, intercoolers act far more often as heat sinks rather than as radiators. Instead of thinking of an intercooler as being like the engine coolant radiator at the front of the car, it's far better to think of it as being like a heatsink inside a big sound system power amplifier. If an electric fan cools the amplifier heatsink, you're even closer to the mark.

In a sound system amp, the output power spikes are always much higher than the average power - for example, big output spikes are caused by the beat of a bass drum. Each time there's an output power spike, extra heat is generated by the output transistors and dumped into the heatsink. But because the heatsink has a large thermal mass (it can absorb lots of heat with only a slight temperature rise) the actual working temperature of the transistors doesn't increase much. And because the fan's hard at work blowing air over the heatsink, this inputted heat is then gradually transferred to the atmosphere, stopping the heatsink temp from continuously rising.
Importantly, because the power spike is just that (a spike, not a continuous high output signal), the heat that's just been dumped into the heatsink is dissipated to the air over a relatively long period. This means that the heatsink does not have to get rid of the heat at the same rate at which it is being absorbed.

Now, take the case of a turbo road car. Most of the time in a turbo road car there's no boost occurring. In fact, even when you're driving hard - say through the hills on a big fang - by the time you take into account braking times, gear-change times, trailing throttle and so on, the 'on-full-boost' time is still likely to be less than fifty percent. In normal highway or urban driving, the 'on-full-boost' time is likely to be something less than 5 per cent!
So the intercooler temperature (note: not the intake air temp, but the temp of the intercooler itself) is fairly close to ambient most of the time. You put your boot into it for a typical quick spurt, and the temperature of the air coming out of the turbo compressor rockets from (say) 40 degrees C to 100 degrees C. However, after it's passed through the intercooler, this air temp has dropped to (say) 55 degrees. Where's all the heat gone? Traditionalists would say that it's been transferred to the atmosphere through the intercooler (and some of it will have done just that) but for the most part, it's been put into the heatsink that's the intercooler. The temperature of the alloy fins and tubes and end tanks will have risen a bit, because the heat's been stored in it. Just like in the amplifier heat sink. Then, over the next minute or so of no boost, that heat will be transferred from the intercooler heatsink to both the outside air - and also to the intake air going into the engine.

(end quote)

As long as you reduce the intake tract to as short as possible (to minimise pressure drop) you cannot have too big an intercooler.

[Jay]

Ummm

I agree with you BUT!....

you really do need to get out more go for a beer and forget about thermodynamics!!! Lets talk girls:mischeif:

Jay

[Corey]

I agree with you BUT!....

you really do need to get out more go for a beer and forget about thermodynamics!!! Lets talk girls:mischeif:

Jay

You're not wrong there if only there was the time

[s2_bo]

Had the One of the silicone pipes come of the left side of the IC the other day at 90 uphill with 1.4 bar boost, Not to pretty as the car basically strolled straight away.

I think this happened because the stainless pipe im using doesn't have any ledge so under high pressure the jubilee clips just wern't hardcore enough to keep the silicone on.

This is the answer and should stop it from happening again.


IMG_2693.jpg

[s2_bo]

[ATTACH]12616[/ATTACH]

[Jay]

um

A couple of things that may cause you probs mate if you dont mind ;

First the short joining silicon hose that joins the pipe that runs back behind the intercooler to the next piece that joins the standard pipe to the throttle body is very short and with the cycling effect of boost could slide off, I'd suggest either a longer hose and more clips or spot weld/braze nuts on the pipes and fit a strap a cross the joint.

Second I see you have fitted a hose clip to keep the pipe shape on the elbow on the exit of the intercooler, this is a big no-no as again with the cycling effect of boost making the hose grow it will cut through the elbow hose

Good write up and well done though

Jay

P.S I didnt spot you allready have had the first problem

[s2_bo]

Cheers Jay,

Thanks for your input.

I shorten the Exit elbow on purposes to try to keep it in better shape as before the angle was making it collapse and that would really restrict airflow.

I didnt think about the fact that the clip could cut the hose as it expands and contract. I will keep on eye on this though.

As for the pipes slipping off, I don't think that will happen again. (touch wood) as the new clips are considerably stronger and go a hell of a lot tighter than the ones before.

Cheers.
Bo

[Corey]

Bo,

If you need the metal pipes with a beaded edge give us a shout. That way the hoses cannot fall off under boost and makes for a nicer instalation

[blown_vr6]

Pipe ridges can be made using JB weld or similar - the stuff is so strong its never going to come off.