Large IC install/pluming

[newsh]

@Peter
I got it fromThis Guy Here
£99 free delivery.

[newsh]

Most ive seen are 3", mine Dougs, Toms and marks were all 3". just use some 76-63 90deg reducer elbows.

Good to know! I'll get it to work..

[newsh]

Bo, did you cut the bottom off the metal panel that comes down the middle with the bonnet safety catch on it? On mine this is holding the IC away from the CM. I seem to have a lot of space between the back of the IC and the crank pulley.

[newsh]

Crossmember, RS2 IC, removed. Also took the step of removing the Aircon compressor and rad and all the brackets and piping across the front of the car, one of the brackets seems to be a blanking cover for an oilway though, has an O ring in it, so I left that one there..

[newsh]

another

[newsh]

looking down

[newsh]

one more

[newsh]

Comparison with RS2 IC, not quite correct as the new one is slightly further from the camera

[4WheelDrifter]

Crossmember, RS2 IC, removed. Also took the step of removing the Aircon compressor and rad and all the brackets and piping across the front of the car, one of the brackets seems to be a blanking cover for an oilway though, has an O ring in it, so I left that one there..

You don't want to remove that one John, it's a blanking plate for the oil return on non-A/C engines.

[newsh]

Linky to Martinjs' pics..

[s2_bo]

Bo, did you cut the bottom off the metal panel that comes down the middle with the bonnet safety catch on it? On mine this is holding the IC away from the CM. I seem to have a lot of space between the back of the IC and the crank pulley.

Looking good there John, No i didnt cut any metal panels. If your mean to the "T" that joins both sides and then bolts to the crossmember at the bottom, then i just bolted that straight to the new xmember. On mine it sits at exactly the same place os the OEM unit.

Not sure if thats the bit you mean though.

I have circled it on the pic.

Bo

untitled.jpg

[newsh]

Yes the upright of the "T" which normally bolts to the old crossmember, its edges are folded forward and effectively make it about 15mm thick, the new IC sits up against these edges, otherwise it would go back further I think. Also did you shorten your snub mount bracket as Martin did or leave it stock length.

edit: just seen your pic yes, that the bit, funny how those wires are in the way in every pic Here's another pic then, the leg of the T seems to be down level with the lower edge of the crossmember.

[s2_bo]

Yes the upright of the "T" which normally bolts to the old crossmember, its edges are folded forward and effectively make it about 15mm thick, the new IC sits up against these edges, otherwise it would go back further I think. Also did you shorten your snub mount bracket as Martin did or leave it stock length.

Thats odd. If anything on mine it touched the Snub mount bracket. But not the bolt or the fins thats now holding that panel down.

No i didn't shorten it. But i might cut of 15- 20mm when i rebuild the engine. At the time if fitted ok with out, but i guess with it shorter you could get the IC back further, that could however involve modifying the the new xmember.
Also on my set up i had to make the IC lean it at the bottom. That was the only way to get the bumper on. So its not sitting vertically level at all.

Let me know if you need some more pics.

Cheers.
Bo


P.s. I may have some good clips for your monster hoses . If you look at them fitted on mine i had to pack them out because they didn't tighten enough,, but with your pipework they should be ok...

Cheers.
Bo

[s2_bo]

You can kind off see here how much tilt it has, it was catching on the snub bracket so i had to trim it down a bit.
IMG_2692.jpg
With out this tilt there was no way of fitting the bumper. - If the whole thing had been moved closer by cutting down the snub mount then it would have got to close to the pulley.

[smogthemog]

John - A word of warning for those 90 degree bends you have there on the ends of your IC.
I fitted those type of rubbers to my original FMIC fit, when I had the 3" aluminium pipes I bought off of EBay (I soon changed them to Stainless Steel ! - they where crap and too soft)

The 90 degree bends you have there don't look to be reinforced and don't look to be silicone either.
With the 120 degree or so temperatures you will be getting from your turbo exducer and the pressures involved there into the IC and thus through those bends, you will virtually destroy them..... They will go bang!
They are not good at those temps and pressures. Your need silicone reinforced ones - or steel with short joiners

Just a thought

Jim