S6 timing

[twoqu]

YOU need to PAY Dmitri (prj) to get involved. You're *not* going to get your load answer from us (amateur) sleuths. Contact Dmitri. Offer MONEY. Get him on the case. He's not going to help you for free, that is obvious.

Thats a bit harsh. He has contributed by telling us that the load is too low and suggesting several causes. However the OP has ruled these out so we are back to having to try and fathom out what else it could be, which is frustrating for us all. After all we are all enthausiasts and despite our quibbles the end goal is for the Forum member to get to enjoy their vehicle. Especially true in this case due to the length of time and effort put in by the OP, not to mention the cost!

[HMS-S6]

I've asked him 3 times now to sort it but he never responds. That avenue is a dead end too I'm afraid.

[HMS-S6]

Understood!
Substitution often works when you know for certain that the substitute is functioning correctly. The maf is the primary engine sensor its just unfortunate that the parts stash hasn't come up trumps on this occasion.
Lets hope it is just something as simple as that now.

Hi Robin. The new MAF is on its way, the cost being pretty insignificant considering the overall total! I don't think it'll cure the cars either but it least it'll rule it out for sure.
Your grommet it on the ship too!

[HMS-S6]

YOU need to PAY Dmitri (prj) to get involved. You're *not* going to get your load answer from us (amateur) sleuths. Contact Dmitri. Offer MONEY. Get him on the case. He's not going to help you for free, that is obvious.

I would gladly drive to Estonia for him to take a look. Money isn't an issue with this car but I can't get him to respond.

[UrS4boy]

I would gladly drive to Estonia for him to take a look. Money isn't an issue with this car but I can't get him to respond.

Did you mention money in the subject line of your email? Need to get his attention.

[HMS-S6]

Yes. Told him money was no object.

[UrS4boy]

Thats a bit harsh. He has contributed by telling us that the load is too low and suggesting several causes. However the OP has ruled these out so we are back to having to try and fathom out what else it could be, which is frustrating for us all. After all we are all enthausiasts and despite our quibbles the end goal is for the Forum member to get to enjoy their vehicle. Especially true in this case due to the length of time and effort put in by the OP, not to mention the cost!

NOT harsh. Just reality. Dmitri is busy with paying customers. Why would he put much effort into helping the OP more than he has for free? OP needs to put diagnostic money on the table and stop throwing money down the new parts well. He should not be applauded for spending money on parts without having a diagnosed need for said parts.

[UrS4boy]

Yes. Told him money was no object.

In the subject line? He has to have an incentive to at least open your email.

[HMS-S6]

In the subject line? He has to have an incentive to at least open your email.

I've even emailed him via his website. Personally I think most will view it as a 's**t job' to which easier money can be made elsewhere.

[newsh]

Rich, have you got a good 14v plus coming from the alternator when the revs are up?

[HMS-S6]

Yes mate, thank you I checked that just the other day.

I just tried something; if I let the ECU reset for the first few minutes the car is MUCH better AND richer on wot. Does that indicate anything or am I just plucking now?

[HMS-S6]

Would this not doubly rule out valve timing?

[twoqu]

Although you say you have good voltage the two screen shots posted earlier would suggest you are aboout 0.5V down at least at both idle and in the mid range. Also the idle speed appears to be @500 rpm higher than it should be.
I have no idea whether this indicate anything but they are just observations!
Not sure what effect the ecu reset has other than clearing codes and whatever adaptions there are around the closed loop idle. That last comment might prompt Dmitri to correct me!

[UrS4boy]

Although you say you have good voltage the two screen shots posted earlier would suggest you are aboout 0.5V down at least at both idle and in the mid range. Also the idle speed appears to be @500 rpm higher than it should be.

Voltage and idle speed look good to me if this is the same car:

[twoqu]

OOPs! I meant 50 rpm! Unless you have the aircon on! Shouldn't the idle be @830 rpm max?
Theory being that if idle is raised that equals a source of unmetered air or a malfunctioning ISV perhaps. Not a massive amount of difference I know but....