boost lag and fuel economy question

[newsh]

When you found TDC with the chopstick (measuring the same drop clockwise and anticlockwise) did it agree with the mark on the flywheel or was it different?

How confident are you that the chopstick method was done accurately?

Have you checked the marks on the cams yet?

[hunker7]

I think it did, but I was on my own so it's possible something moved in the process.

I mean I won't say that chopstick method wad accurate. But the weird mark on the flywheel is for TDC I'm 100% sure so that's what I'll be using.

[Rikki Kitto]

Mine was fitted with a 4 wire lambda, 4 wires gives a higher info rate I think, but I could of misunderstood this

[hunker7]

Mine was fitted with a 4 wire lambda, 4 wires gives a higher info rate I think, but I could of misunderstood this

might be different on S2 As all I've looked at (Denso, Bosch, NGK) had 3 wires.

[Rikki Kitto]

Mine had three wire Mark changed it to 4 when he mapped it

[AndyP]

The 4th wire is an earth, I have one in mine.

[Rikki Kitto]

Would this make a difference to the sensor then in respect to the info it gives the ECU as opposed to one without an earth wire?

[hunker7]

So when I checked timing, it was half a tooth out, and it was running pretty decently (compared to how it's been) now I did timing again, using flywheel and it's only out by 1/4, 1/5 of a tooth, and it's horrible to drive.

Basically I can't align all 3 timing marks.

-Flywheel won't match with marks on crank pulley.
-If I set flywheel and cam pulley I can't fit the belt
-if I only align cam and lower pulley then timing mark on flywheel is way out (past the window)

Can belt be shorter by any chance?

[hunker7]

Also just unplugged lambda and it runs the same. So it looks like ECU isn't seeing lambda.

[macspring]

You need to bring it to someone on here who is a ral expert, and let them help you.

tbh, as mentioned before, at his rate, it will not be 'dear' to bring it to Mark in Automark to benefit from his years of experience. You're currently only torturing yourself and missing out on the performance of a good I5 20vt engine. Just sayin..........

I appreciate it's money, but if the car is fixed it will be worth it.

From my very limited knowledge, the way you've described how the flywheel, the cam wheels and the bottom pulley do not line up, it would make me think that one of the three items are not from an UrS4 giving rise to the inability to line all three up at the same time.

Automark or someone should be able to line it up / time it to work at it's best regardless of the timing marks ?

Maybe others have some ideas.

Is the car chipped ? can't remember.

[newsh]

Stage one chips I gave him, ran ok in my car, we also tried my PRJ ecu in the car when it was down here and it ran ok. Although we did have a boost leak on the turbo to IC hose..

I think it was ok before the timing belt change.


I wonder if the crankshaft pulley keyway sheared when you tightened it? Did the holding tool you made rest against the snub mount or di you use a long bar to the floor or an axle stand? Got any pics of how you did it?

[hunker7]

This is the setup. It didn't move at all while tightening the big bolt. If it was cracked it would have sheared completely by now.

[Error404]

The timing marks are not that accurate, for example I run an RS2 pump and belt on mine with top timing mark half a tooth out and it runs 100%.
Let's be logical - if the ECU can't detect a fault, evidenced by the fact it is not throwing codes, then the cause is almost certainly a mechanical problem. Go back over EVERY step you have done since the car ran properly and use a process of elimination. Something is damaged or installed incorrectly.

[hunker7]

I have been over it several times, and I did find some loose clips which I sorted out.

Why isn't there any change when lambda is connected or not connected?

[Error404]

You've taken everything off to check, turbo, manifolds etc?