New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner

[rxl]

RS2EvaporativeEmissionsCanisterInRightFenderCavity.jpg

[Tractor Dave]

Fitted. Thanks very much for the pics.


I had to use a spacer here. Have I missed something?


Connections look ok?


Spent more time driving around looking for the grommets than doing the fit!


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[M2ki]

Cant tell by your pics. But hose which is closer to the door goes to the engine. Also that hose goes through hole which is closer to to headlight. Maybe there is no difference.

[Tractor Dave]

The orientation of the hoses wasn't difficult because one hose was still connected to the canister and its end came up just where the return fuel line was. The other end was still attached to the heat shield which runs under the brake servo so the connections were pretty much fool proof! I'm still mystified as to why I had to use a spacer on the middle mount. The top mount wouldn't fit on the inner wing without it. 7zap shows a spacer on the bottom mount but tried that and it wouldn't work.

Anything else I need to fit before the engine goes in?

[irishs2]

Indicator wiring? You might need some dumdum for the black plastic guard that sits between the wing and the a pillar.

[Tractor Dave]

Indicator wiring? You might need some dumdum for the black plastic guard that sits between the wing and the a pillar.

Do you mean the arch liner? What is dumdum?

[newsh]

Do you mean the arch liner? What is dumdum?

There’s another plastic piece that runs up the back of the wing where it joins the A pillar. Dumdum is that sticky rubber mastic stuff, like they use to seal round the rear light clusters.

[Lago Blue]

Dave, (and Rxl),

As you asked folks to eyeball things, I did & noticed a difference between your rack install & Rxl's. What I want to ask about is grouped around the length of bolt ends protruding through nylok nuts. Perhaps the difference is due to a LHD vs RHD thing, I don't know, but in any case both of your installs appear to have nuts that may not be "in safety" (i.e. imperical parlance for full height bolt threads right through and protruding from the nut's nylon portion by one or two full turns (3 threads on aircraft)) where perhaps they really ought to as they're steering stuff (a.k.a. flight controls) ( Dave, your inner tie-rod end fittings to the frangible bracket and that bracket to the ram (and shouldn't there be washers here); and Rxl's damper attachment to the rack damper bracket.

3 more Questions: Dave, are you using the OEM stud-plate that fits the bracket from behind? If yes, why do the studs not protrude like Rxl's? Rxl, similarly, could you fit the next length of bolt to attach the damper without having too much shank that might prevent proper clamping; and yet perhaps better prevent that nut from backing off?

I can't seem to post (the subject copied, saved, & cropped) photos, but the 2 photos are; 1st Dave's:

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/welcome-area/introductions/2009953-new-s2-avant-nothelle-n300-owner?p=2032675#post2032675

& 2nd Rxl's (see 3rd photo here):

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member-s-area/projects/86162-audi-s2-with-a-few-updates?p=2031940#post2031940

Thanks for your attention.

[Tractor Dave]

There’s another plastic piece that runs up the back of the wing where it joins the A pillar. Dumdum is that sticky rubber mastic stuff, like they use to seal round the rear light clusters.

I think that bit is missing from my goodies box. Anyone got a picture?

[Tractor Dave]

Dave, (and Rxl),

As you asked folks to eyeball things, I did & noticed a difference between your rack install & Rxl's. What I want to ask about is grouped around the length of bolt ends protruding through nylok nuts. Perhaps the difference is due to a LHD vs RHD thing, I don't know, but in any case both of your installs appear to have nuts that may not be "in safety" (i.e. imperical parlance for full height bolt threads right through and protruding from the nut's nylon portion by one or two full turns (3 threads on aircraft)) where perhaps they really ought to as they're steering stuff (a.k.a. flight controls) ( Dave, your inner tie-rod end fittings to the frangible bracket and that bracket to the ram (and shouldn't there be washers here); and Rxl's damper attachment to the rack damper bracket.

3 more Questions: Dave, are you using the OEM stud-plate that fits the bracket from behind? If yes, why do the studs not protrude like Rxl's? Rxl, similarly, could you fit the next length of bolt to attach the damper without having too much shank that might prevent proper clamping; and yet perhaps better prevent that nut from backing off?

I can't seem to post (the subject copied, saved, & cropped) photos, but the 2 photos are; 1st Dave's:

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/welcome-area/introductions/2009953-new-s2-avant-nothelle-n300-owner?p=2032675#post2032675

& 2nd Rxl's (see 3rd photo here):

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member-s-area/projects/86162-audi-s2-with-a-few-updates?p=2031940#post2031940

Thanks for your attention.

Yes, I used the original bracket. I think the difference here is that I have used stainless steel nylock nuts which are taller than the originals and I added a washer. There is a small amount of thread protruding from each nut and I'm confident they won't come undone. I didn't have the original nuts otherwise I would have used them.

Thanks for looking though. Any advice is appreciated.

[M2ki]

Washers are unnecessary. There are no washers from factory, because it is pretty thick material and washers serve no purpose there.

Regarding safety, even when both nuts come loose, the bracket with two studs is impossible to remove and track rods can't come loose.

[irishs2]

I think that bit is missing from my goodies box. Anyone got a picture?

This bit no 1.

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks very much. I don't have them in my box so if anyone has a left and right, let me know. They are on Audi tradition but I think its still broken

[Tractor Dave]

I fitted the door cards. Fiddly job.
I’m sure someone else has a good way of doing the lock button but I found it easy if I removed the plastic grip and put a length of shrink wrap wire insulation on the end, leaving a few inches protruding. You can then thread the shrink wrap into the hole and it guides the rod into the hole as you offer the door card up.


Still looking for the rest of the front handles if anyone has a pair knocking about?


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[_ShurikeN]

I have used stainless steel nylock nuts.
...
Any advice is appreciated.

I would not use stainless nuts and bolts in suspension and steering, they don't provide proper strength degree. OEM steel fasteners are recommended there (for me personally they are a must).