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New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner
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Fitted. Thanks very much for the pics.
I had to use a spacer here. Have I missed something?
Connections look ok?
Spent more time driving around looking for the grommets than doing the fit!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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The orientation of the hoses wasn't difficult because one hose was still connected to the canister and its end came up just where the return fuel line was. The other end was still attached to the heat shield which runs under the brake servo so the connections were pretty much fool proof! I'm still mystified as to why I had to use a spacer on the middle mount. The top mount wouldn't fit on the inner wing without it. 7zap shows a spacer on the bottom mount but tried that and it wouldn't work.
Anything else I need to fit before the engine goes in?Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Originally posted by irishs2 View PostIndicator wiring? You might need some dumdum for the black plastic guard that sits between the wing and the a pillar.Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Originally posted by Tractor Dave
Do you mean the arch liner? What is dumdum?
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Dave, (and Rxl),
As you asked folks to eyeball things, I did & noticed a difference between your rack install & Rxl's. What I want to ask about is grouped around the length of bolt ends protruding through nylok nuts. Perhaps the difference is due to a LHD vs RHD thing, I don't know, but in any case both of your installs appear to have nuts that may not be "in safety" (i.e. imperical parlance for full height bolt threads right through and protruding from the nut's nylon portion by one or two full turns (3 threads on aircraft)) where perhaps they really ought to as they're steering stuff (a.k.a. flight controls) ( Dave, your inner tie-rod end fittings to the frangible bracket and that bracket to the ram (and shouldn't there be washers here); and Rxl's damper attachment to the rack damper bracket.
3 more Questions: Dave, are you using the OEM stud-plate that fits the bracket from behind? If yes, why do the studs not protrude like Rxl's? Rxl, similarly, could you fit the next length of bolt to attach the damper without having too much shank that might prevent proper clamping; and yet perhaps better prevent that nut from backing off?
I can't seem to post (the subject copied, saved, & cropped) photos, but the 2 photos are; 1st Dave's:
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/welcom...75#post2032675
& 2nd Rxl's (see 3rd photo here):
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...40#post2031940
Thanks for your attention.
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Originally posted by newsh View Post
There’s another plastic piece that runs up the back of the wing where it joins the A pillar. Dumdum is that sticky rubber mastic stuff, like they use to seal round the rear light clusters.Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Originally posted by Lago Blue View PostDave, (and Rxl),
As you asked folks to eyeball things, I did & noticed a difference between your rack install & Rxl's. What I want to ask about is grouped around the length of bolt ends protruding through nylok nuts. Perhaps the difference is due to a LHD vs RHD thing, I don't know, but in any case both of your installs appear to have nuts that may not be "in safety" (i.e. imperical parlance for full height bolt threads right through and protruding from the nut's nylon portion by one or two full turns (3 threads on aircraft)) where perhaps they really ought to as they're steering stuff (a.k.a. flight controls) ( Dave, your inner tie-rod end fittings to the frangible bracket and that bracket to the ram (and shouldn't there be washers here); and Rxl's damper attachment to the rack damper bracket.
3 more Questions: Dave, are you using the OEM stud-plate that fits the bracket from behind? If yes, why do the studs not protrude like Rxl's? Rxl, similarly, could you fit the next length of bolt to attach the damper without having too much shank that might prevent proper clamping; and yet perhaps better prevent that nut from backing off?
I can't seem to post (the subject copied, saved, & cropped) photos, but the 2 photos are; 1st Dave's:
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/welcom...75#post2032675
& 2nd Rxl's (see 3rd photo here):
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...40#post2031940
Thanks for your attention.
Thanks for looking though. Any advice is appreciated.
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Washers are unnecessary. There are no washers from factory, because it is pretty thick material and washers serve no purpose there.
Regarding safety, even when both nuts come loose, the bracket with two studs is impossible to remove and track rods can't come loose.1989 Audi 80 Quattro
1994 Audi 80 Quattro Competition
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I fitted the door cards. Fiddly job.
I’m sure someone else has a good way of doing the lock button but I found it easy if I removed the plastic grip and put a length of shrink wrap wire insulation on the end, leaving a few inches protruding. You can then thread the shrink wrap into the hole and it guides the rod into the hole as you offer the door card up.
Still looking for the rest of the front handles if anyone has a pair knocking about?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Originally posted by Tractor Dave View PostI have used stainless steel nylock nuts.
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Any advice is appreciated.
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