New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner

[newsh]

Oh and check the round plugs on the bulkhead for corrosion ( if it goes through one of those that is..)

[Tractor Dave]

Oh and check the round plugs on the bulkhead for corrosion ( if it goes through one of those that is..)

Good plan

[Trist28]

Maybe the same problem as the fan wire feed on mine...

Before you take the loom out, try just shortening that wire a little and crimping a new tag on the end.

[Tractor Dave]

My oil still smells of petrol so before I did anything else I swapped it for this.

Apparently it’s good stuff but must be changed after 1k Miles.

I managed to pull the loom out enough so I could work on it. I have now replaced all the connectors and tested each wire to the connector plug and they are all good.
I then tried again but still had the warning light on autocheck.
Then I remembered I had fitted another oil sender when all this started. So, put the old one back in and, hey presto, all is good. I’m still showing 5bar plus on my oil gauge all the time but I discovered something else interesting. I have a shim on my oil pressure regulator spring. Should it be there? Is that causing constant high pressure?

So, oil light off, I took her for a nice long drive. 20 miles to my nearest shell garage and filled her up with v power.
It’s running very smoothly, powerful and willing. I’ve edged up to 4K revs a couple of times. It’s so tempting to go further!
I still have the wheel bearing to sort, then the car it pretty much useable.


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[Tractor Dave]

Just to add to the above, the reason it worked ok hot wired yesterday was due to me bridging the wrong blue/black wire. There is a thin on the left round plug ( which goes to the sender) and a thick on the right round plug (return?). So, in effect I was telling the auto check all was well (when actually it wasn't).

[steve briance]

I've seen shims being made by a Swedish company I think which claimed to increase oil pressure. Not entirely sure they do anything as the spring and plunger are a relief valve and the shim won't make the spring any harder to press. If it stopped the valve opening all the way then maybe it would increase oil pressure. Not a standard item as far as I know and with new shells and all the rebuild work, I can't see you being short of good pressure!

[Tractor Dave]

I've seen shims being made by a Swedish company I think which claimed to increase oil pressure. Not entirely sure they do anything as the spring and plunger are a relief valve and the shim won't make the spring any harder to press. If it stopped the valve opening all the way then maybe it would increase oil pressure. Not a standard item as far as I know and with new shells and all the rebuild work, I can't see you being short of good pressure!

Yes, the shim would make the spring harder as it's on the collar of the temperature sender and therefore puts the spring closer to the valve needing a higher pressure to operate.

[twoqu]

The only specs I have seen are from the AAN/3B for the pressure sensor. Doubt whether its different for the ABY.

5-10 Ohms - Engine off
70-120 Ohms - Idle
170-200 Ohms @3000 RPM

That is measuring from the G terminal to ground. So you can verify that the sensor is producing a signal that makes sense. You could also measure pre and after the connector to see if it varies. If it does then the issue might be the connector itself. If it passes through the connector ok then that leaves the wiring back to the guage.
It looks as though the higher the resistance the higher the reading!

Should say thats with engine oil at 80C!

More useless info. Found some VW1301 measurements that equate to oil pressure from the sender. You have to divide by 2 and add 10 to convert to resistance.

350 = 5.0 bar
150 = 2.0 bar
10 = 0 bar

So converted:

185 Ohms = 5.0 bar
85 Ohms = 2.0 bar
15 ohms = 0 bar.

Not as accurate as a guage but hopefully that should allow you to determine whether there is an issue.

[Tractor Dave]

That's excellent, thanks twoqu. I will need to buy a new multi meter as mines doesn't have an adjustable range on Ohms.

And I'm dumping the running in oil immediately. The bucket tappets don't like it at all!

[twoqu]

Are you sure the multimeter is not autoranging?

[Tractor Dave]

Are you sure the multimeter is not autoranging?

Could be. There is only one setting for Ohms on the dial. It's a cheap one from screwfix. Engine off it said 0.6. Do I just move the decimal point?

[twoqu]

Having hurt my neck and eyes, does it not say Auto Range on it?
If 0.6 is 6 ohms that would be within spec. If its 0.6 ohms then its a bit low.
Just try it when the engine is next started and see what it reads unless you have something with a known resistance to test the scale.

Guess its a matter of how many 0 are before the decimal point!

[Tractor Dave]

Having hurt my neck and eyes, does it not say Auto Range on it?
If 0.6 is 6 ohms that would be within spec. If its 0.6 ohms then its a bit low.
Just try it when the engine is next started and see what it reads unless you have something with a known resistance to test the scale.

Guess its a matter of how many 0 are before the decimal point!

Yes it does. I never noticed that! I will have a play tomorrow. Thanks very much.

[Tractor Dave]

Error 404 kindly pointed out that the shim is fitted to the ABY/AAN engine. Pic from his re build thread. Its staying put.

[twoqu]

Too be clear you need to remove the terminal to the guage to test the sender readings. So its just the sender to ground.