After running them for a few weeks now on the interior light circuit, I've decided I want them on the window circuit instead
Now I'm not sure of other models in the range, but my 95 S2's power windows work like this (my old Coupes were slightly different, more at the end)
Get in the car and switch the ignition on and the window/sunroof circuit is live. Switch the ignition off and the windows will remain live "until" you open either of the front doors. Then the power is cut.
I've not needed to remove the door cards this time. When fitting them the other week I'd run the wire past the switches for the windows and cabled tied it to the cabling there. All I needed to do this time was remove the inner handle to expose the switch wiring, cut and seal off the end of the wiring I'd run to the interior through the rubber boot, as I'll use this later for the door marker lights.
The other ends coming from the LED's at the door pull, were then connected to the switches wiring after I'd identified the correct wires.
Now when I switch the ignition on, the door pulls light up. When I come to a stop and switch off, they remain on until I open the door.
On the passenger side I tapped into the green wire and the red/blue wire.
On the drivers side I tapped into the passenger side switch, wire colours green/black and red/blue.
Again, there may be differences on other models. I used a wiring probe to determine which I used ( I bought one Vasilis .)
Ok, my old Coupe's (2.3e and cq20v).
They were slightly different in that when removing the key from the ignition, they remained on even when the door was opened, only going off when the door was then closed again.
One last thing, if manoeuvring a box of 360 pieces of wiring terminals across from one side of the car to the other, don't knock the box into the steering wheel on the way past, and spill ALL 360 of them on the car floor
Now I'm not sure of other models in the range, but my 95 S2's power windows work like this (my old Coupes were slightly different, more at the end)
Get in the car and switch the ignition on and the window/sunroof circuit is live. Switch the ignition off and the windows will remain live "until" you open either of the front doors. Then the power is cut.
I've not needed to remove the door cards this time. When fitting them the other week I'd run the wire past the switches for the windows and cabled tied it to the cabling there. All I needed to do this time was remove the inner handle to expose the switch wiring, cut and seal off the end of the wiring I'd run to the interior through the rubber boot, as I'll use this later for the door marker lights.
The other ends coming from the LED's at the door pull, were then connected to the switches wiring after I'd identified the correct wires.
Now when I switch the ignition on, the door pulls light up. When I come to a stop and switch off, they remain on until I open the door.
On the passenger side I tapped into the green wire and the red/blue wire.
On the drivers side I tapped into the passenger side switch, wire colours green/black and red/blue.
Again, there may be differences on other models. I used a wiring probe to determine which I used ( I bought one Vasilis .)
Ok, my old Coupe's (2.3e and cq20v).
They were slightly different in that when removing the key from the ignition, they remained on even when the door was opened, only going off when the door was then closed again.
One last thing, if manoeuvring a box of 360 pieces of wiring terminals across from one side of the car to the other, don't knock the box into the steering wheel on the way past, and spill ALL 360 of them on the car floor
Comment