Ruby Red Audi S2 Avant

[Michael S2]

Think its just the photo makes it look low. You have tooooo many speed bumps near you, at least when you get passed them you have great roads not far away.

Got the car checked over before mot. Needs discs and pads all round which i expected. Car runs front tt calipers and s6 discs. So before i strip it down what pads do i order? S6 or tt or will they be the same?

[Tonybolony]

Sorry, Mike- I don't know exactly what brakes were fitted up-front (I never changed them!) but I'm sure the relevant info is in the reams of invoices you have. May be worth a chat with one or two other previous owners, who I think are still on here.
Good luck Bud; keep the photo's coming, pls

(Ps- I'm still not sure about the alloys)

[Michael S2]

hehe: Wheels are just right
Garage wanted £400 to do brakes which I reckon is steep. When they discover the fronts are upgraded I bet they'll want even more. Time to get my hands dirty again me thinks.

Brake pad question for anyone who runs different caliper/disc combination. Do you run the caliper pads or disc pads?

[geneandbolly]

mike, there's a great little garage in alyth that my family use. i'm sure he into all sorts of classics. indeed there are a few garages/ bodyshops in that tiny little village that are into classics! i'll find out the name of the place if you like?

[andy10v]

Exhaust looks tidy, I look forward to hearing it.

If you have the tools I would do the discs and pads yourself, it should only be a couple of hours work if nothing is seized. Also means you know it is all done properly and good to get a look at everything whilst you are there.

I would buy new rear caliper carrier bolts, as they are allen key, and often get mangled removing them.

Pads are normally specific the the caliper/carrier, though sometimes you can get some depth variations.

According to this

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37121&highlight=tt

you have 314/30 discs and tt calipers/cariers, so you would use the tt pads.

[Michael S2]

I'm doing the brakes myself, shouldn't be too hard. Figured out what brakes they are, just the pads i wasn't too sure about. I thought it would be the caliper type, thanks fo the help Andy. Think TT use 312mm discs, so pads should be close enough to my 314mm discs... thats my logic anyway.

[andy10v]

check is deffo 314/30 and not 312/25.

Do you have something to wind back the pistons in the rear calipers?

[Michael S2]

Cheers, i will check the new ones match the old ones. Glad you mentioned about the calliper wind back, i would have been pushing forever So i need something to turn the piston as apposed to just pushing? Will a cheap tool from ebay do the trick?

What about replacement caliper bolts...dealer only?

[jade]

Cheers, it sounds pretty damn good

Its not exactly as i asked for, but that may be my fault. I asked for 3" from turbo, sports cat into Milltek back box. However they left the Milltek middle box in. I said leave it just now and if its not loud enough i can have a straight section put in. Bit of confusion somewhere, but not to worry it looks a good job to me. Not boomy at all but sounds much more purposeful which is what i wanted.

Its away getting MOTd now but i'll try and get a video soon.

I think in the end you will be glad to have the middle box

[andy10v]

Cheers, i will check the new ones match the old ones. Glad you mentioned about the calliper wind back, i would have been pushing forever So i need something to turn the piston as apposed to just pushing? Will a cheap tool from ebay do the trick?

What about replacement caliper bolts...dealer only?

The piston screws in, turn and push. You can do it with pliers if its not too tight, but you can slip tear the dust boot and stab yourself in the hand....

Yup, ebay job about £10/£15 is perfect

Something like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Cali...item43b810bdde

G clamp works great on the front, or big screwdriver between the old pads and discs if you dont have a clamp.

Thin spanners are nice to hold the caliper carrier guide pins (I use bike cone spanners), you can also jam in a screwdriver, or use molegrips etc

I got bolts from a tool/hardware shop, just got the right size/grade.

There are some OEM audi caliper bolts listed on ebay for an a4, you could check the part numbers.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1513502309...919%26_rdc%3D1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A4-RE...item2591dbb095

If you can borrow somebody for a few minutes its also an ideal time to bleed the brakes.

If you want adjust the handbrake cables you need a deep socket, or I use a box key taped into a socket.

De scale the caliper carrier pad slides when its off. If you have a vise and a wire wheel in an angle grinder it will be super quick, otherwise scrape off the rust with an old screwdriver and give it a wire brush.

[andy10v]

If the allen key bolts round out I used to hammer one of these over to remove, Irwin nut removers



Hammering a spline bit in also sometimes works, but the the Irwin nut removers are better.

[Michael S2]

^Very useful info, thanks.

Nearly got everything for the brakes. Decided i wanted to use new bolts for calipers/carriers so got all the part numbers and ordered at Audi. All parts on back order and have to come from Germany... Hopefully get it done next week.

The state of the front discs and pads is quite scary so I'm glad i'm changing them.

Made a quick clip of the new exhaust (engine cold so didn't rev too much)

http://s158.photobucket.com/user/jeremy_spoke_in/media/NOKIA%20Lumia%20800_20141124_113722Z_zpsgugrxljq.mp4.html

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

The exhaust sounds nice,looking forward to hearing it when the cars warmed up.

[Tonybolony]

Sounds nice, Mike

I thought you said you were gonna remove the towbar

[Michael S2]

As you can see from the video Tony i found a high quality trailer to tow