I'm 45 years old, 6 foot weighing around 12 1/2 stone. I'm not a weakling but I also don't go to the gym and pump iron as iron as it were. Think I'm going to get my wench returned for another one, or get it checked...
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You need the extension. I'm 6'2" and 14 1/2 stone and needed one.Nothelle S2 Avant
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So I did a quick test using the following. Clamped a nut in a vice and stuck a bolt in and tightened with the Clark digital wrench (don't think that is 100% accurate) to 200nm it's maximum setting. Then used the other wrench and that turned the bolt a few more deg before it clicked off. So I don't know if I'm being over paranoid or not, as lets face it if it's not right then I could kiss goodbye to my engine if that bolt comes lose...
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It will be fine. That bolt is a 14.9 and can take enormous torque. Set at 440nm if you think it's a little out.Nothelle S2 Avant
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It just seamed a little to easy to get 450nm, yes I had to put my body weight over it, but I was expecting more of a fight or having to use the extension bar. I'm just concerned it's not tight enough.Comment
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Nothelle S2 Avant
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I don't think it was 180deg for the extra 450. Will look at it again tomorrow.Comment
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Nothelle S2 Avant
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The bolt can be 're used and isn't a stretch bolt as such. I do like to renew the bolt if I don't know the history but I've 're used these bolts several times with no problem.Nothelle S2 Avant
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Does any one else use the Audi tool 2079 for the crank bolt? By using that you only need 350mn, it also makes life easier when removing the bolt.Comment
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I did another test again this evening, clamped the Clark torque wench in the vice (set to 200nm) and then used a socket and Allen socket, then went head to head as it were, the Clark again sounded before the Draper clicked off so either the Clark is getting a little weak or the draper is on the stronger side. So around 200 the wrench is good. Now Just found a company local to me so will ask them if they can check it tomorrow. http://torquecalibration.co.uk/torque-calibration/
On a side note I did not want to go down the 1/2 turn route as I was told this is not 100% accurate and the bolt is over tightened, so it's 450nm or nothing as I don't have a spare engine in the workshop (Wish I did).Comment
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Stripped the front panel today, took 2 hours to get to this point. Almost stripped it back completely as there were so many little rust spots.
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Hole panel got done with etch primer then the rear of the panel got a coat of epoxy. For the front I'll put high build then base & clear.
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Also finally finished fixing the sheered bolt that holds the front aircon bracket. I got some of these the other day as they stated they were self tapping which is total BS. I tried to tap them into the alloy and the thread started to grind away.
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So drilled out the old bolt and got an M12 1.5 tap (same thread as the self tapers) and and stuck a thread in.
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I used a bolt and two self tapping inserts, along with plenty of thread lock and put them into the hole, then remove the insert that was sticking out.
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With this fixed I was finally able to put the pulley on. That went OK, but as in the thread above I'm unsure the bolt is tight enough so will get my torque wrench checked and finally get that bolt tight.
Big thanks to Tractor Dave for advice on the cambelt and loan of the locking tool, which hopefully you will get back this week
Last edited by B5NUT; 5 December 2021, 22:21.Comment
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I'll just leave this one here, but only my S2 could have a stuck rusty screw in plastic FFS.
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I think there is a metal insert moulded into the plastic. Pain in the **** as the factory used steel rather than brass...
On my other classic the 50 year old radiator bleed screws are brass in a brass threaded hole and free as the day they were put in.Comment
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