My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[Bowie69]

36psi all round for tyre pressures. see here from the owners manual http://s2-audi.co.uk/audi_docs/owner...cal/wheels.htm

36?

2.3 bar is 33.5.

Kit wins!

CQ20V is 32 all round.

[Mikes2]

the sticker on my old S2 was 36 all round, regardless of any owners manual

[B5NUT]

Also from the 162kW that must be the 3b so is there a difference between the ABY and 3b?

[Mikes2]

It's possible although unlikely. The ironic thing is that manual was from my 1993 ABY S2 which got written off in 2003. The 36 psi is in the middle of the 2 values listed for low and high load. Sticker was on the tailgate on the right side.

[simons2]

3b is lighter so they maybe different

[Rikki Kitto]

Tried from 32 to 36 in mine seems to handle better with 36 in but feels a bit harsh but you have to compromise

[K Simmonds]

This is kind of splitting hairs a bit really.

My car was a stripped down 3B weighing in at a touch over 1300kg's with nearly a full tank of fuel, confirmed on a weigh bridge.

Running stock springs with Koni adjustable dampers along with being fully poly bushed and I mean everything even the tie rod inner bushes, so not exactly OE spec.

After pissing about with H&R's, various 17" rim's and 215/45 and 225/45 tyres fitted with both conventional as well as track day rubber I went back to stock springs as well as wheels and tyres despite running full RS2+ spec. The tyres didn't last very long, however I simply found the car handled better that way on the wide variety of surfaces I regularly drove on so that's what I went with.

If I only ever drove on perfect roads I'd probably have gone with 7.5" wide wheels fitted with 215/45/17 Toyo R1R's which are a semi track tyre.

Due to the reduction in weight I experimented with everything from 30 to 36 psi and found that 34 seemed to feel about right for my car, style of driving and as I mentioned wide variations of road surface's, which also happens to be the factory figure for a 3B half laden.

I wouldn't be that surprised if the data for 3B and ABY's varies by 2 psi due the difference in weight of the cars as well as the width of the wheels 3B's being 7" x 16" and ABY Avus rims being 7.5" x 16".

[B5NUT]

You know I'm sure this car hates me.. Just spent hours looking at the problem with the brake lights as they had both stopped working. Check the fuses, tried the old bulbs, cleaned all the connectors either side, spent time looking at the wiring diagrams & internet searches, and check the switch with a meter all appeared to be correct

However I decided to pull the plug off the brake switch and just short it out and hallelujah, I have brake lights! Removed the switch (looks like some had been in there before) opened it up looked at the contacts which all appeared to be fine, put it back in the car and all working as it should FML, this car is going to be the death of me.

[B5NUT]

Few further jobs of the list today.

Replaced the lower trims
1-trims.jpg
Starting to look better.
2-car.jpg
Replaced the boot seal.
3-seal.jpg

Easy enough to fit but was a little tight, also takes a little more force to close the boot but there in no more play.
4-seal.jpg

Tomorrow I need to replace the inner upper door card seal. Looking at that seal I will need to remove the door card as I was able to replace the outer one without removing the card. Not sure how easy that's going to be.

[K Simmonds]

Looking good, those new lower trims finishing the car of a treat...

Door car removal is pretty straight forward...

Fully lower the window.

Undo the obvious screw's at the top, front and rear.

Untighten but don't actually fully undo the two 4mm or some case's 5mm Allen head clamping bolts through the access hole's in the interior door handle, three or four full turns should be enough, this is the worst bit IMO. I use the long bit an Allen key cut off straight combined with a 1/4 drive socket and ratchet, though a proper long Allen socket is also just fine, however if it's 3/8's drive you'll probably find it cumbersome.

Remove interior door handle by pulling it towards the car at 90 degree's to the face of the door card, it'll need a bit of a jiggle and you may need to untighten the Allen bolts another turn or two.

Unplug and remove all the switches.

Undo and remove the screw's along with the two little L shaped brackets that the interior handle claps onto.

Carefully lift the door card straight up from the underside of the door pocket, again a little jiggling may be required but you shouldn't need to go wild.

There's a little spring clip that keep's the interior door pull cable in place on the back of handle, noting it's position as it's possible to reassemble this incorrectly and that will really piss you off. Don't ask me how I know.

Pull the interior door pull and unhook the cable from the back.

Feed the wiring through the holes in the card.

Remove the door card completely.

Now spend half an hour finding all the rubber things that protect the door card brackets and prevent rattles. They'll be in the bottom of the door, on the floor, in the plastic brackets on the back of the door card and some will still be where they're supposed to be located on the door itself.

Have a cup of tea.

[K Simmonds]

Just checked my car and there are actually three acess holes in the interior door handle, the two at the front are for the Allen head clamp bolts and it appears the one at the back is a Philips head screw, though I'm pretty sure I've also encountered an Allen head here as well. The one at the back must be fully undone, but not removed from the handle.


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[K Simmonds]

Double post...

[Bowie69]

Yes, one at the back is Allen on my car, and yes, there is three!

even the back one doesn't need to come out of the handle, just loose enough to disengage with the bracket. ?

[K Simmonds]

Yep, that's right, the one at the back does need to be completly disengaged but not fully removed from the handle. It's a bit of an odd arrangement, but I'm sure Lee will work it out.

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[B5NUT]

Thanks for the help guy's I would have most likely removed all the screws rather than just having them lose. I'm about to start on the door cards as I've been finishing off a few jobs this morning.

Got all the wheel arch liners fitted, and fitted the bonnet stops. These are from a Ford MK1 Escort, so that means the car will now completely disintegrate due to rust!
1-stop.jpg

Also got the front lower lights on for the first time in 5 months, I'll look to start painting the grill's later today/tomorrow
2-front.jpg
Finally I see light in what has been a very long rusty and bodged tunnel.