Project: RS2 ABY

[S2central.net]

Dont baby it though..... the piston rings want to be bedded in - doubtless JP will be providing any specific run-in rules

[Ross]

My research led me to believe the 'puma racing' run-in guide was a pretty balanced approach... get it up to temp, bed them rings in by repeated load-then-vacuum pulls to about 60% of the redline and good throttle through 3/4th, drive it 'normally' with varied RPMs too about 100 miles, then start stepping it up...

I found the engine gave better vaccuum, no smoke and felt 'loose' after about 10 miles of bedding in, continued to improve in these respects noticeably up to about 80 miles and since then it's more of a proving / bed-in period.

Now at 550 miles now I'm giving to ~4500rpm and moderating boost via the right-foot to ~1bar... just gave it a quick pull to 1.5bar and then 1.9bar last night for the first time :mischeif: Going fully synthetic and cranking up the RPMs once I hit 1000km as I'm impatient to go till 1000 miles

Note: keep the RPMs below MAF range until it's mapped. I'm going by 4500rpm which seems to be about right from discussions on here (Paul?)

[A80Avant]

i am worried about this, as my first 100miles is to drive back home!

when you say vary it in rpm for the first 100miles, up to what rpm and how much can you vary it? This thing will drive the misses insane if i have to drive like that from Nottingham to Newcastle!

also , how safe is it to keep the same oil and filter for the first 1000kms(mph) when from what i have read, its the first 10mins of engine runnning which produce most of the metal fragments that then go to the filter or float in the oil..

[AndyP]

i am worried about this, as my first 100miles is to drive back home!

when you say vary it in rpm for the first 100miles, up to what rpm and how much can you vary it? This thing will drive the misses insane if i have to drive like that from Nottingham to Newcastle!

also , how safe is it to keep the same oil and filter for the first 1000kms(mph) when from what i have read, its the first 10mins of engine runnning which produce most of the metal fragments that then go to the filter or float in the oil..

On a full rebuild like yours I would not advise leaving the same oil in for 1000km's, change it at 10 miles and 100miles. Oil is cheap, you'd be daft not to.

I'm sure Brian will run it in for you

[A80Avant]

I hope so! and change the oil!

[Ross]

Maybe would should start another thread for running in - I guess it's relevant to say here - it's considered bad to keep constant revs during engine run-in as you'll glaze the bores and never get an optimal seal on the piston rings. Any rough spots will wear quickly, but my research points to a need to specifically go out and bed in the piston rings. Doesn't take long, maybe 10-20 pulls over 10-15 minutes, leave the missus at the shops while you do that bit, then pick her up As for warying revs, I don't think you need anything too drastic and wouldn't worry once you've bedded in the rings and covered a few miles. Inconsistent motorway traffic speeds is probably ideal

[newsh]

Or just set the satnav to avoid motorways and highways for the first hunderd miles

[Jamo]

Haha you'll end up with a flooded engine for different reasons then newsh

[John B]

Hi Andy,

It seems from your pictures that your exhaust system was a little strange up front. The standard Milltek system looks liketn_DSC01210.jpg I can see the RS2 downpipe but can't see how this goes into the single cat you had and then into your system.

Anyway...way to go with the re-build,

Cheers,

John

[Sonic]

More exciting work...

[geryS2]

mmm....tasty those pics

[pixsaudisex2]

Looking good..

[Error404]

mmm. shiny shiny. Any more progress on this?

What paint did you use on the block mate?

[Ruffiano]

are you not fitting uprated valves while doing this work? I would strongly recommend going with "non sodium filled" valves, plus if you go with an undercut valve you will increase flow substantially!

[Sonic]

are you not fitting uprated valves while doing this work? I would strongly recommend going with "non sodium filled" valves, plus if you go with an undercut valve you will increase flow substantially!

Stock valves. You'd have to ask JP about any other head work, he's the one that rebuilt and ported it.