UrS4 2.2T Avant project

[my2000apb]

give it more AMPS!!!!!!!!!

[Thuppu]

Yeah, have to learn how to weld...

[Thuppu]

Got the IM welded and strenghten up. Sure alu welding isn't easy with my skills as you can see. Pressed the ballooned parts back to shape and welded all together with all Amps(200A) the machine outputs. Found one more crack in the conical part, grinded the old weld and did a new one... Well, hope it holds for a while.

[fish]

I am a welder by trade, and i can tell you the first weld shot in tese last pictures is way too cold, the second one (final picture) looks way better. What material thikness is the sheetmetal? 200 amps sounds very high, i wonder if something is wrong with the potentiometer on your welder. What welder are you using? We all learn by doing and i think it overall looks great for you not beeing a welder

[Thuppu]

Material thickness is 4mm. It's a cheap china unit, so maybe the real output is something else..? On a second thought, the problem can also be that I havn't cleaned oxidy of the sheet surface properly, because that last weld did melt a lot easier and I did weld it a lot faster than the other welds. It also goes faster and easier when the piece heats up...

The first pic of the two last ones is the old weld I grinded down, it's welded with less Amps than the new weld. It was also my first alu weld since 17 years back when tig welded at school.

[Error404]

To make it easier you should be very thorough cleaning the oxide off right before you weld, as it melts at a higher temperature than he material underneath and forms like a skin on the weld pool so it makes it harder to put consistent heat into the piece
Plus you don't want contaminants in your nice weld

[Thuppu]

Car is working great again. Found another small boost leak from the BOV. Seems to leak from the control side past the piston. This is what you get with cheap china parts.

Today I finished the 80mm boost gauge install. Painted the bulb red so it suits the cluster lights better. Removed all old gauges from the A-pillar, the VEMS round moved to another location...

[Thuppu]

Did go with 750lbs front springs. Helper spring is 150lbs. Rear struts look tiny, but the spring rate is 500lbs, have to do a extension on the top mount to get the proper lenght of the rears. Front struts needs blast and paint... Front brake fittings and adapters are ready for use.

[ringbearer]

Very nice!

What front strut inserts are you running and did you Revalve them for your spring rates?

What are you going to use for the upper mounting on both?

I am doing similar but think I'll use the 8611_1257 konis in front. Currently working out strut spacers, top hats with bearings and gland nuts if needed.

[Thuppu]

I have Koni Sports (86-2149Sport) but they are out of good, need to be replaced. Have been thinkin of a same pair, or maybe Spax or GAZ adjustable shocks. Those Koni Race shoks you mention seems to be hart to get here and propably quite pricey. For the upper mounting I hope the get done a adjustable camber/caster plate with a spherical ball bearing.

Got the struts painted and test asembled with the disc and caliper.

[popdemonic]

i'm thinking next time i will paint mine in yellow.nice Thomas.

[Thuppu]

Thanks pop. The caliper isn't perfectly aligned with the strut, but maybe the caster angle corrects it, so the calipers seems to be close to 90 degree angle when the wheel is on.

[Thuppu]

It begins to be time to put the UrS in the garage and start the coilover/brake update...

Some small things has happend here in the meantime. Got waterjackets machined on two blocks, one tall block and another short one. Will see if I will do the short block first, before I make the stroker..?




Got also a VEMS ecu fitted and working with stock triggers. Works perfect without trigger errors, have tested up to 8000rpm's. Got little help of a friend who has mere experience of I5/VEMS setups. Wanted to see how much we can get out with this ecu so it was dyno time. But two weeks before the dyno, I did take out the turbo because it was leaking oil and smoking on startup. The exhaust side bearing was finito, it had seized on the chaft and caused it to be out of balance why it started to leak.








Well, no dyno with this turbo. Did send it back to the turbo shop for inspection, it has only 5000km on the clock. They told it has had bad lubrication, so no warranty. Same lines that have worked nice with the other turbo. Anyway, fitted the stock HX40 Super and was on the dyno.






No good luck, we hit a brick wall at 609hp and 764Nm. The dyno graph looked really strange, as you can see here:




The suspect goes on the IM , some strange pulse or flow restriction etc..? Will try to make a Evo II IM soon. If the cams restrict the graph would propably smooth out nicer..?

[Acki]

Check the camshaft timing and the valve springs (back pressure?!). More details about the exhaust line?

New turbo = new oil feed pipe. After movement of the pipe deposits will be loss and can damage the turbo.
I guess it damaged the thrust bearing.
This is a typical damage for new/rebuilt engines. Dirt in the oil circuit.
A mesh for the first 1000km would help here. Around 40microns.

[Thuppu]

7A cams in stock markings. We ran out of time on the dyno, other wise I would have tried to adjust the cam timings. 4" DP, 3,5" exhaust, there is also a 5" 100cell cat.

Would the sympthons look like that if there is valve float?

Had drive the engine for few months with this old HX40S before I fitted the the new turbo. The feed line is fine, no dirt inside when I flushed it with brake cleaner.