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Are you sure it's pin 18? I'm looking at a 3B diagram and pin 18 is power from the fuse.
If pin 18 is supposed to be connected to the ground ring then it's definitley too high, it should be very near to zero Ohms.
When I did the last bunch of work on my car and fitted the wagner manifolds I discovered that there was corrosion inside those brass rings at the IM earth points, with a bit of wiggling I was able to just break the wires where they went into the rings. So I shortened the wires back to solid copper and soldered the rings back on.
Also reading your boost tests it seems your one way valve might be leaking or stuck open. This small plastic valve (20mm dia?) is situated at the junction of 2 small pipes of different sizes at the back of the engine and just below the ISV. If this is stuck open it will allow boost to escape back to the MAF hose and also the sump via the PCV system so definitely needs looking at. As Jamo says, the way take the PCV system out of the test is to bung the hole in the MAF hose where that weird zig zag pipe connects on the ABY.
Having said all that, if all is correct if you pressurise the system from the MAF end including the PCV system it should hold pressure resonably well. Since you are pressurising the sump you will probably find the oil filler cap will start to leak first. I wouldn't go more than 0.5 Bar if the PCV system is connected as you'll stand a chance of blowing a hole in one of those old pipes..
Thanks John, will start looking into some of this again next week. Took IM off today to replace the plastic inserts in the IM too as they we leaking some pressure too., will keep you guys posted on the ongoing saga.
Get something on the threads of the injector inserts, no matter how tight I got them they still leaked. Plumbers tape worked for about 1000 miles; you wan something that won't be dissolved by petrol!
I got some thread lock that was good for fuel and oil lines from Halfords, no more leaks
Get something on the threads of the injector inserts, no matter how tight I got them they still leaked. Plumbers tape worked for about 1000 miles; you wan something that won't be dissolved by petrol!
I got some thread lock that was good for fuel and oil lines from Halfords, no more leaks
Plumbers tape I.E. PTFE tape will not be destroyed by petrol, high quality fuel hoses
are PTFE lined !
I'll make try a bit of PTFE on them, they are a right sod to get out though. Tried warming IM up before undoing but just rounded allen off so had to resort to other tactics then
When I did the last bunch of work on my car and fitted the wagner manifolds I discovered that there was corrosion inside those brass rings at the IM earth points, with a bit of wiggling I was able to just break the wires where they went into the rings. So I shortened the wires back to solid copper and soldered the rings back on.
I checked the buzzing out and it was pin 19 I was connected to on ECU. ive got the inlet manifold re mounted now.
If I disconnect the connection for the carbon canister to the IM and the little one way valve and block off that shouldnt affect operation of anything else and would then separate the PCV circuit wouldnt it?
Also going to try reterminating the ground connector on IM and see if that helps too. Thats the job tomorrow night hopefully.
Also trying to sell our house and buy another so all a bit hectic here
Plumbers tape I.E. PTFE tape will not be destroyed by petrol, high quality fuel hoses
are PTFE lined !
How odd... thoroughly bound my inserts with the stuff, two still had it intact and the rest there was no sign of it! I guess it could have been blown out of the threads by 2.2bar of manifold pressure Or my bargain halford's stuff wasn't PTFE...
Either way the thread lock did a much better job at keeping them leak-free.
Finally making a bit of progress on mine, feels like I have been banging my head against the wall on this for ages now.
Engine is now running on 5 cylinders again now, where the clamp on the coil pack cover holds the wires in place as they exist at the back of the head the insulation on one of the wires had been damaged and was shorting to the head, I fixed that this evening and engine will run on 5 cylinders which is quite a success.
I still have the same issue with the engine not being able to idle or start properly, Jamo is bringing an ISV round to try tomorrow which I am hoping will resolve the problems, but will wait and see.
I was trying to check the voltage on the ISV when engine running and varies with throttle opening between 5.2v and 5.8v which finger in the air is probably OK for approx 40 to 60% duty cycle.
Been searching around the forum and found an old thread from Angus about running output tests without VAGCOM so will try that tomorrow and see if the ISV is actually operating as it should be.
I still have the same problem of the engine will run as long you you manually hold throttle open, but it wont idle or start without throttle being applied. Once I can get this sorted I can get back to the long list of other bits I want to get done.
These output test instructions courtesy of SJM Autotechnik worked for me despite it being for a 1992-96 S4/S6 AAN. The output test is activated from the terminals that you plug in VAG COM in the fuse box.
There is an "output test" mode that will cycle the engine electrical solenoids on and off to verify they are working correctly. You are able to test the 5 Fuel Injectors Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV) Carbon Canister Solenoid Valve Waste Gate Solenoid (waste gate frequency valve)
To activate the Output Tests, you must first connect the Jumper Wire across the Fault Code Connectors as shown in the diagram and THEN turn on the ignition to initiate the output tests. (DON'T START THE ENGINE) After the ignition is turned on, remove the jumper wire after at least 4 seconds.
FUEL INJECTOR TESTS: After you have removed the jumper wire, you can place your fingers down on fuel injector #1 and then open and close the throttle with your other hand. You should hear and feel #1 Injector click 5 times and then be quiet, place your fingers on Injector #2 and again open and close the throttle, Injector #2 should click 5 times, place your fingers on Injector #4 and open and close the throttle, Injector #4 should click 5 times, repeat for Injectors #5, then Injector #3
After doing the last injector test on #3 the Output test will switch to testing the IDLE STABILIZER VALVE (ISV). You should hear this Idle Stabilizer Valve clunk open and closed..
Connect the jumper wire again for 4 seconds to go to the next output test:
The blue Carbon Canister valve behind the idle stabilizer valve (behind throttle area) will be cycled on and off. You may want to place your hand around the carbon canister valve to feel it operate.
Connect the jumper wire again for 4 seconds
The Waste Gate Solenoid on the intake boot near the turbo inlet will be cycled on and off. This valve operation is pretty loud, so you should be able to hear it operate.
Connect the jumper wire again for 4 seconds.
;End of Output Test Procedure, fault code memory has been cleared.
NOTE: To repeat the Output tests, the ignition should be turned off for at least 20 seconds. If Output tests are repeated, the INJECTORS will NOT be cycled again, unless the engine is started and run briefly.
Greg check the wiring to the white temp sensor on the back of the cyl head, pull back the boot and check for shorts and breaks. Unplug the sensor and see if symptoms change.
Finally had some success today, its definetly the ISV at fault now which I will be replacing. Anyone know any good bosch dealers to source one from?#
I'll post a video up later, but used the procedure on the s2-audi.co.uk site to double check wiring which was all fine and then ran the output tests using the little MIL blink light adaptor I have.
Was quite amusing after thoroughly cleaning and lubricating the ISV I managed to get the valve to move again as it appeared to have seized in place and left it running on the output test for about 15 mins until it freed up. It still sticks occasionally and requires a tap, ill upload the video later.
Idle Control Valve was stuck shut stopping the engine starting without throttle and wouldn't idle. After lubricating and cleaning it is patched up and working until a new unit arrives. which I have goto order, thanks to everyones helping fix the issue. I checked alot of wiring too and know that is all working too. While cleaning used the output test mode configured with jumpers on diagnostic ports to actuate the ISV after about 15 mins and adding some light oil to lubricate it the movement was much stronger on the ISV and should do until I can get the new one.
When it does stick a little tap with a hammer frees it up again and works ok for a while, the output tests were really helpful in checking this too.
Got the long list of stuff to do now as money allows, i tried to fit the SQ snub mount today with ABY snub mount bracket but the bolts I have are the wrong size.
Can anyone tell me the part numbers and/or the sizes of the 3 bolts required for the mount to the engine block on ABY? And also confirm the latest Bosch Part number for ISV.
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who can lend me there ISV to try and potentially ECU to try aswell?
Or my bargain halford's stuff wasn't PTFE...
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