Greg_S S2 Coupe 20+ years going strong

[newsh]

Have you checked the bundle of grounds on the under side of the IM near the throttle body?

[europeanme]

have you asked JP if he knows someone who cleans injectors?....IIRC you aren't that far from him or Johnnybravo....

[Greg_S]

Just been reading thread on S4 wont start and will be checking the timing pin on mine, especially as I have fitted a single mass flywheel during the rebuild and wonder if this may be causing the issue on starting. Either the pin is too far from the sensor or may have become detached.

Also going to check the earths tomorrow night.

Also found out Bedford Battery do injector cleaning so going to take them in there on Friday as its the nearest one to me so hopefully that will help too.

[emil]

hello
this is a difficult problem to detect

my friend disassemble the whole car
and yet He can not find where eproblema

I hope you have luck
write if you solve the problem

thank you very much

[Greg_S]

I have an updated, abeit a fustrating one. I had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned last week and refitted them on monday evening only for the original problem to remain and the engine is now running on 4 cylinders rather than the 5 id prefer!

Goto check it out tonight to find out if the wiring to the injector is the issue, or the injector itself has been damaged during the cleaning and service, then I can get back to trying to fix the original problem.

I did try disconnecting the G28 sensor and other sensor on bell housing in various combinations, but the engine wouldnt start at all then.

I was considering wiring up an LED with a 330 ohm resistor so that I can see the output from the hall effect sensor for cam and the same for G28 to make sure I am getting an output from these.

[Greg_S]

I got out there for a few minutes this evening to check the injectors, checked the voltage coming off them when engine is running on a couple of the injectors. Looks like the one that isnt working is the actual injector that is at fault so now goto get that sorted out too before I can properly fix the original problem.

Also was reading thread on bad running http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=648423 and carried out checks again and resistances were all in tolerance, and the potentiometer varies resistance smoothly too. Checked the connector and that looks to be in good order also so no closer there.

Could do with some help to check it out properly soon I think!

[s2_bo]

Good luck Greg! Hope you can get that injector replaced easily enough.
Did the cleaning come with any warranty?

[newsh]

Have you checked the bundle of grounds on the under side of the IM near the throttle body?

Might be damaged or intermittent

[Greg_S]

Yeah I will check them again, when I get back im getting a friend to help me test from the connectors in engine back to ECU connector along with those earths. How much is a single RS2 injector these days?

[Greg_S]

I managed to borrow a compressor from one of my friends this evening so have been doing some leak tests on the car and swapping injectors around to see if the wiring is at fault after having the injectors cleaned or the old wiring on the S2.

Unfortunately it looks to be the wiring that is the issue on the injector nearest the throttle body so going to have to spend some time buzzing wires out to find where the break is.

Where can you source replacement pins for the connectors like those used on the MAF and injector plugs? Do you need a special tool to crimp them on also?

With the boost leak tests I tried it in various positions with the bungs I have.

1. First I did just MAF hose to hose to metal crosspipe and a bunged hose on the end of pipe of rocker cover. This held without any leaks well.
2. Next I reconnected the breather hose on the back of the IM and also the main inlet to cross pipe. In this conifugration it would not hold boost.

Is that correct? I think it is because the breather system is then connected to the sump via breather pipe work through the small black valve in pic with the red circle.
Knowing this I then tried

3. Blocking pipe on end of plastic valve with red mark showing and it held better, however you could hear escaping via the other small breather pipe to the sump and I wasnt sure if it should be getting via this route at that point.

4. I also blocked off without the plastic valve as shown in other pic and stuck my thumb in the breather hole to the sump and you could year the air escaping into the sump from the other breather. Now with my thumb in there I also noted that the plastic inserts on two of the inlet manifold injector seats were also leaking around the threads and will require replacement too.

Does this tally with other members experience with boost leak tests?

Luckily I ordered a set of the injector seats from S2Avant at the start of the week so I can start to fit those at the weekend aswell.

What was more worrying is that despite all of this the engine will not start without applying some throttle and dies as soon as this is removed. And today I couldnt get the drivers window to go down, but the engine would turn over so im thinking it is definetly more electrical related than anything so I am going to have to start buzzing out all of the earth connections and connections to the ECU fully and rectifying any faults that I find.

I am also seeking someone with a full VAGCOM so I can run output tests and check the ISV is working as it should be. In amongst everything else I am struggling to find the time to work on the car and trying to get it ready for the silverstone classics in July which I am planning to goto and at this rate I dont think it will be ready by then

[Jamo]

For boost test you dont block off that far off into the pcv system, certainly not when I've done it. Disconnect it from the turbo inlet hose / cam cover and block that pipe off and block the hole in the turbo inlet host. Boost test the system and it should hold boost.

I have full vag-com but unfortunately it does not work all the time. I need to get it installed on my other laptop but there seems to be conflict with the usb between my vems cable and vagcom cable.

[Greg_S]

Thanks for offer, I have started to take the IM off now to do the inserts as a couple of those were leaking and I thought it would make life easier when buzzing out all of the cables which is going to be the more tedious job I think.

Also ordered some 1/4" drive tools to make life easier getting the IM off so they should be here in the week. Also swapped injectors around again and it is definitely the wiring at fault, not the injectors

[driftin jo]

This often happens when taking an engine in and out, as you disturb the loom the
old hard insulation fails and then you get shorts, sometimes breaks in the wires,
or wires braking off the the pins on connectors to sensors, injectors etc.
I f in hate car electrical problems they are a pain in the ****, good look with
sorting it out, keep the faith, it will all be worth it in the end.

[Greg_S]

Yeah I keep telling myself that, been getting a bit fed up with all of the set backs the last 18 months. But got so far i have to goto carry on. I had thought I would easily have the car sorted for GTI and Silverstone and was running well until the electrical gremlins crept in

[Greg_S]

I spent this evening out there with a mate and a couple of beers buzzing out as much of the wiring as we could to try and find if there is a short or break in the wiring ive put them into a table attached in case its useful for others too.

I am going to take the injectors in to be checked on Sat after the cleaing as the wiring for the injectors appeared to buzz out fine, but I have swapped injectors around already so will also need to check its no the POS doing it aswell.

Anyway the only really highlight from the testing was the earth on the IM. With both wires disconnected from the IM and testing the smaller of the two hoops was fine, i.e 0 Ohms between that and pin 19 on the ECU.

On the larger hoop to pin 18 it was measuring 450 Ohms which seemed too high, could this be because it was taking an odd route as it was disconnected from the IM and main engine earth etc?

I didnt have time to trawl through the current flow diagrams this evening though. What are the main earth points to check and test.

See attached results too,