Greg_S S2 Coupe 20+ years going strong

[driftin jo]

My fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds when ignition is turned on. Then stops until engine is turned over. Doesn't Motronic behave this way?

NO, it does not prime like kjet does.

[Greg_S]

Managed to get engine started. Had to change the starter connection from bottom spade to top spade and sprung into life. After I had take alot of the dash apart underneath I realised that but nevermind.

My next issue is around oil pressure.

before startup oil pressure gauge reading 0 as expected. Startup and getting over 5 bar on the gauge and oil warning light on the dash. Is this purely a sensor for over oil pressure? Or not connected correctly or something more serious

[Greg_S]

to clarify, the oil pressure gauge needle moves a couple of mm when ignition switched on. Might be being a bit paranoid as packed oil pump with some vaseline during rebuild so wasnt grinding itself on first start too, so may need that to dissolve a bit first before reads properly

[Error404]

Sounds like its wired up right then.
If you take the fuse out for the fuel pump and take the plugs out and crank it for a couple of minutes, you should see about 2 bar just off the starter motor, that'll prime the engine properly with oil without any load on the bearings

[Greg_S]

Made some good progress today, didnt get time to take pictures before I left this evening. After initial starting this morning I have left that for tomorrow and concentrated to getting rear brakes sorted. Re done the rear disc guards and hubs with POR15, fitted new discs and calipers. Started to service front brakes and will change fluid tomorrow.

Also started to get exhaust sorted too after the crap job the fitters did a number of years back. Just goto get the welds finished off tomorrow, courtesy of Ian at churchroadgarage.com which should make the exhaust a bit more freer flowing, and will also now have a flexi joint between downpipe and center section.

Also moved whole rear of system back about 3/4" so that it doesnt touch the chassis about the rear driveshaft, but next to no room with 3" system in there. Also going to add an extra bracket for exhaust near prop shaft mount ti support the system a bit better too.

Also been tidying up a few bits where underseal has gone, but will have to leave that job for this week and do that at home I think.

Will also taking subframes and suspension off in near future to have it blasted and re coated.

[TimE-J]

Sounds like it's all coming together now! I'd like to see how your disc back plates look like after being painted as I'm wondering what to do with mine. How did you clean them up?

[Greg_S]

There not too bad. If I was doing them with the rear subframe etc I would have the soda blasted at the same time and then repaint.

I went over them with an abrasive disk and wire brush first.

Then marine clean and prep n ready followed by 3 coats of POR15. Should do the job for a few years, but that POR15 stuff is a nightmare to get a nice finish when using a brush, plus the brush becomes single use with that stuff so I bought a stack of brushes in ASDA. also make sure you have some glass jars to put the POR15 in if you want to reseal and reuse, welds the tin shut and near impossible to get back into. I bought a load of the litter pots, but it does cover a large area so a little pot goes quite a long way.

Goto get it all together for friday otherwise I will be booking a train home rather than driving

Will take my camera to garage with me tomorrow and see if I can take a few photos too.

[Greg_S]

Also been thinking about front brakes too, as I have AP's on front and the thickness of the bells means the wheels dont align fully on the spigots so want to get some spigot extenders to go into it. Will either have to get some machined up to suit or see if there is anywhere I could buy some to do the job?

Rather than standard spigot rings for larger alloys, I need ones that will artifically extend the existing spigot beyond the face of the brake bell, been trying to track down a vibration for a while and reckon this could be the cause. Could also be driveshafts, but thought id try this first.

[TimE-J]

Thanks for the heads up on the backing plates. Good luck getting it finished by friday, I'd offer to lend you a hand if I was closer.

[Greg_S]

Thanks, hopefully should get it sorted providing I dont have any major gotcha's tomorrow

[Greg_S]

She's running now, got new rear brakes fitted and taken AP's off front and given them a good clean up. New brake fluid.

Also sorted my oil pressure gauge issue, I had the two connectors the wrong way around. For future reference make sure the blue connector is upper most when the terminal are facing toward the bumper. changed those over and oil pressure is spot on.

I do have a more minor issue now on startup where you have to give it a little throttle sometime to start, wondered if this could be because the TPS needs adjusting as I replaced this during the rebuild, any ideas what else it could be?

New clutch is working nicely, bit of a change with a single mass flywheel and sachs clutch so may take a bit of getting used to.

Also got some extra jobs to do now, slight bubbling on passenger arch so will add that to the list of jobs.

Exhaust is all sorted now with a flexi joint.

Just waiting for MOT and getting insurance quotes now

[Greg_S]

Got a little time to take a few photos, mainly underneath of exhaust now sorted.

All MOT'd and insured now. Goto pay for tax this evening and out for a few local runs tomorrow all being well.

Found I couldnt open the bonnet earlier though so goto track down what the problem is, I suspect it is because I had the headlight assembly from drivers side out and it doesnt align quite right with bonnet catches so goto tackle that in the morning.

Got the replacement section of exhaust in to get rid of the mess the original fitters made with 3.5" exhaust slid over top of 3" after a silencer was removed, rather than doing a job properly. Now much better and repositioned so not touching the chassis, but its still very tight over rear driveshaft and for rear backbox.

I checked the fault codes for the starting issue too and none are persisting and the TPS is within spec as per ABY workshop manual, probably the fact it has 1 year old fuel in doesnt help. Also changed the plugs now engine has been warmed up and looking forward to going for a couple of runs tomorrow.

[newsh]

Nice to see the car back up and running after all this time Exhaust looks tidy enough, it's very tight over the back axle on the coupe with 3" though eh? And of course when it gets hot it moves a fair bit..
Looks like you're sorted now though, hope all goes well with the shake down runs!

[newsh]

Just a thought, is the ISV stuck? Might be worth giving it a wash out with WD40. Swapping the 2 sensors is a common one, I've done it on the coupe and on the ur (which gives you the voice of Patrizia complaining!)

[Greg_S]

Yeah I gave the ISV a bit of a cleanup. Seems that you have to crank over for a couple of seconds, and sometimes give a little blip of throttle to start. I will try again in morning when the engine is cold and see what it is like then. Feels nice to have it running again, still got a mountain of jobs to take up my weekends for the next 6 months or so, main thing is I have it tidy ready for silverstone classics in july and track day later in the year.