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Originally posted by V6quattro View PostI also had somtimes problems welding alu. I got a gas-lens kit for my torch and did a little welding with it and it looked very promising! Maybe worth a try as they are cheap.
Idea i have failed to follow so far is to get a flexible cable 9F type torch, it is more than enough for automotive stuff while beeing smaller and cheaper than 17/26 parts.
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Originally posted by Zoig View PostRegular gas lense is pretty useless, stubby gas lense is the way to go. Basically it enables the 26/17 type aircooled torches to use smaller 9 type cups, also the full setup becomes a lot smaller while performing better tha standard setup. One rough test i tried, regular gas nozzle killed my 1.6mm tungsten at 90A, with Gas lense 120A was not a problem for 1.6mm tungsten.
Idea i have failed to follow so far is to get a flexible cable 9F type torch, it is more than enough for automotive stuff while beeing smaller and cheaper than 17/26 parts.
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Originally posted by quattro-nick View Postnice progress
your welding skills are like mine,a lot of grindingwork
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TIG is hard to get right, there are a lot of variables and coordination.
Looking at the pics, make sure the ally is perfectly clean & you have removed all oxide before you start.
Have a look at this site:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/
A lot of info and great tips to improve your technique. Plus the guy Jody is pretty funnyPanthero Coupé quattro 20vt
Indigo ABY coupé
Imola B6 S4 Avant
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Originally posted by Error404 View PostTIG is hard to get right, there are a lot of variables and coordination.
Looking at the pics, make sure the ally is perfectly clean & you have removed all oxide before you start.
Have a look at this site:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/
A lot of info and great tips to improve your technique. Plus the guy Jody is pretty funny
I would love to have a go on a nice a.c. tig set to see if its my kit or me.
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I was just going to say the same about the welds looking dirty, I can see you've wire brushed them but they still need to be cleaner. I use these aswell at stainless wire wool and acetone
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5PC-FLAP-W...sAAOxyRNJScNZW
also, watch this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5PC-FLAP-W...sAAOxyRNJScNZW
And if you think your struggling on power, pre-heat the weld first with a blow torch, it'll help a bitsigpic
1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer
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If you have a "skin" on the weld puddle, that is the oxide layer. It has a higher melting point so the clean metal melts below it. Try using a scotch cloth or some fine sandpaper to prepPanthero Coupé quattro 20vt
Indigo ABY coupé
Imola B6 S4 Avant
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Thanks guys maybe my clean isn't clean enough. I'm used to arc rods burning through paint and rust lol.
This is the tig a.c. unit in using.
It uses my old oil filled 350 amp murex arc welder as a power source. Unfortunately the murex only does about 140 or 150 amps at a guess on single phase. I must measure that to be sure. Anyhow as you can see the boc unit has no adjustability just a foot peddle for starting the hf arc.
I have a nice thermal arc dc tig job for other stuff. Maybe I need to invest in some cleaning kit and also a good a.c. tig.
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Originally posted by AndyP View PostI was just going to say the same about the welds looking dirty, I can see you've wire brushed them but they still need to be cleaner. I use these aswell at stainless wire wool and acetone
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5PC-FLAP-W...sAAOxyRNJScNZW
also, watch this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5PC-FLAP-W...sAAOxyRNJScNZW
And if you think your struggling on power, pre-heat the weld first with a blow torch, it'll help a bit
Originally posted by AndyP View PostWhat filler rods are you using? And does your machine have an AC balance setting?
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